| Transmission questions [message #90184] |
Sun, 27 June 2010 18:59  |
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Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
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The great white thing will back up but forward is hardly anything. It is better now that I reconnected both ends of the vacuum line to the servo, but it still does not really move forward.
In the process I severely overfilled the transmission and ran it for a few minutes. It is now drained back to Manny's calibration point of dripping out of the servo port when hot, but it still does not pull forward. Is is possible that I have contaminated the clutches by overfilling? Will the fluid eventually drain away if left to sit a while?
Is it possible the torque converter has self-emptied after sitting so long? How could I get it to refill?
Is there some other minor thing that could have me immobilized?
"financial officer does not see new transmission in our future"
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission questions [message #90199 is a reply to message #90184] |
Sun, 27 June 2010 20:22  |
Charles
Messages: 455
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
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If you have low gear but no second or third it might be a
sheared governor gear. Unless you have headers this is
easy enough to check. Just remove the governor and
look at the gear on the lower end. When this gear shears
you can not shift into second or third. Simple fix replace
gear. If the gear is not sheared you need to start looking
for a transmission shop. I have a good one in Dallas Texas.
Charles
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Charles Wersal
Duncanville, Texas
26 foot 1975 Glenbrook
Pandora's Box
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| Re: Transmission questions [message #90233 is a reply to message #90184] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 02:52 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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The torque converter fills up almost immediately when you start the engine. This is why you normally check the fluid with the engine running at idle. If you drained the fluid by removing the modulator, you need to do it immediately after shutting off the engine. This is to make sure the torque converter is full and has not had time to drain back down into the pan.
I have never tried removing the modulator with the engine running. I do not know if that is possible. That is a question for Manny.
When we replaced my trans, it took two of us 1.5 hours to pull it and 2.5 hours with a different helper to replace it.
We had a floor jack, worked on a concrete floor, and dragged the trans in and out on a piece of cardboard. After the trans was near the installation position we rolled it up on the floor jack. The wheel liners were already removed. This made the job a lot easier.
I have a brace that I made that goes across the engine hatch that holds the rear of the engine in place. It is simply a piece of uni-strut (with holes in it), two eye-bolts and two short piece of chain. Attach the chain, to the rear bolt holes on the heads and tighten the eye bolts until they are snug. You can adjust the engine up and down if necessary during re-installation by simply turning the eye-bolt nuts.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Transmission questions [message #90255 is a reply to message #90239] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 08:00 |
fred v
Messages: 999
Registered: April 2006
Location: pensacola, fl.
Karma: 0
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| Hardie Johnson wrote on Mon, 28 June 2010 06:37 |
| Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 28 June 2010 03:52 |
The torque converter fills up almost immediately when you start the engine.<>
I have never tried removing the modulator with the engine running.
<>
When we replaced my trans, it took two of us 1.5 hours to pull it and 2.5 hours with a different helper to replace it.
<>
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Okay, so it is trying to refill, maybe its not pumping. Umm.
I removed the modulator after the engine stopped. Maybe all the fluid it needs went to the recycler. Double Umm.
I'll try a refill, but probably I'm done here.
"Unmoved"
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you might try checking the fluid level without starting the engine after it has set for several days and drained down. then check it after starting up and see if the level goes down. that will tell you if the pump i working.
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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| Re: Transmission questions [message #90312 is a reply to message #90239] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 15:28 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Hardie Johnson wrote on Mon, 28 June 2010 06:37 |
| Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 28 June 2010 03:52 |
The torque converter fills up almost immediately when you start the engine.<>
I have never tried removing the modulator with the engine running.
<>
When we replaced my trans, it took two of us 1.5 hours to pull it and 2.5 hours with a different helper to replace it.
<>
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Okay, so it is trying to refill, maybe its not pumping. Umm.
I removed the modulator after the engine stopped. Maybe all the fluid it needs went to the recycler. Double Umm.
I'll try a refill, but probably I'm done here.
"Unmoved"
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I'm NOT telling you to remove the modulator with it running. I have never done that and would not do it without asking Manny first. I do not know how long it takes the torque converter to drain down.
What I am saying is to:
1. disconnect the modulator vacuum line,
2. loosen (not remove) the bolt,
3. start the engine run it for a minute or so,
3. shut off the engine,
4. immediately remove the bolt and modulator,
5. check that the level is to the bottom of the modulator hole.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission questions [message #90324 is a reply to message #90313] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 18:00 |
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Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken, I really appreciate that. I am not doing anything until the temp drops below 90F.
I have fluid way up on the dipstick after it sat for a day. Later tonight I will do the checks that have been suggested for seeing if the converter is drawing in fluid.
Anybody think there is any point to pulling the pan and changing the filter?
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
[Updated on: Mon, 28 June 2010 18:01] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission questions [message #90341 is a reply to message #90324] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 19:30 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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| Hardie Johnson wrote on Mon, 28 June 2010 18:00 |
Anybody think there is any point to pulling the pan and changing the filter?
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I can't speak specifically to auto transmissions, the 425 included. However as a, at one time, maintenance professional, I can recommend that doing cheap and/or easy checks and tests is worthwhile even if the chances of finding the problem are limited. Example:
You pull the trans and send it to Manny. Manny calls you and says "the only thing wrong with this trans is the filter is plugged."
The cost to get that answer is big big $$$. Cost to do the cheap checks, maybe 50-100 bucks, max.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: Transmission questions [message #90361 is a reply to message #90184] |
Mon, 28 June 2010 21:34 |
fred v
Messages: 999
Registered: April 2006
Location: pensacola, fl.
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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the first time i changed my oil and filter i found the o-ring was not seated right and was probably sucking air around it. i couldn't tell if it had any affect on performance being a newbie at the time.
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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