Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » slamming the door
| slamming the door [message #84732] |
Sat, 15 May 2010 17:40  |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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Hi All,
I know this topic was discussed recently, but I couldn't find the posts. Apologies for rehashing.
The door on my 76 PB has the apparently typical symptom of not closing completely unless you slam it. It will latch if you close it gently, but it's 1/8" or so off the frame.
IIRC the diagnosis was a worn stud on the plate that attaches to the frame. But frankly, I'm skeptical. Wiggling the post only gives about .020 play, and it just seems like there must be something also worn in the latch mechanism in the door itself.
Before I shell out the $30 for the new plate, somebody please convince me that's the solution, or perhaps suggest some additional troubleshooting I might do to narrow it down?
Thanks
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84746 is a reply to message #84732] |
Sat, 15 May 2010 18:36  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Jay,
I was as skeptical as you, but with fewer symptoms. I thought my door
closed pretty nicely so when Bill Bramlett came by at a rally and gave me
one of the solid-pin strikers, I thanked him and stored it away. 2-3 years
later I apparently had nothing else to do when I came across it again, so I
installed it. Instead of my door closing like a Ford's, it suddenly closed
like a Cadillac's (maybe only those with memories back to the 40's & 50's
will understand that comparison).
My OEM striker had no perceptible play; if yours has 0.020", it's probably
worn out and you'll see a dramatic improvement. But before spending any
money, I'd remove the door panel and be sure all the lock securing screws
are tight.
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 6:40 PM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this topic was discussed recently, but I couldn't find the posts.
> Apologies for rehashing.
>
> The door on my 76 PB has the apparently typical symptom of not closing
> completely unless you slam it. It will latch if you close it gently, but
> it's 1/8" or so off the frame.
>
> IIRC the diagnosis was a worn stud on the plate that attaches to the frame.
> But frankly, I'm skeptical. Wiggling the post only gives about .020 play,
> and it just seems like there must be something also worn in the latch
> mechanism in the door itself.
>
> Before I shell out the $30 for the new plate, somebody please convince me
> that's the solution, or perhaps suggest some additional troubleshooting I
> might do to narrow it down?
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84763 is a reply to message #84746] |
Sat, 15 May 2010 20:51 |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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Hi Ken,
Thanks. What exactly is a "solid-pin striker?" Is that what Applied sells? I think my pin/post is riveted to the plate. Is the solid-pin like welded?
Thanks again,
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
> From: hend4800@bellsouth.net
> Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 19:36:59 -0400
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door
>
> Jay,
>
> I was as skeptical as you, but with fewer symptoms. I thought my door
> closed pretty nicely so when Bill Bramlett came by at a rally and gave me
> one of the solid-pin strikers, I thanked him and stored it away. 2-3 years
> later I apparently had nothing else to do when I came across it again, so I
> installed it. Instead of my door closing like a Ford's, it suddenly closed
> like a Cadillac's (maybe only those with memories back to the 40's & 50's
> will understand that comparison).
>
> My OEM striker had no perceptible play; if yours has 0.020", it's probably
> worn out and you'll see a dramatic improvement. But before spending any
> money, I'd remove the door panel and be sure all the lock securing screws
> are tight.
>
> JMHO,
>
> Ken H.
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84766 is a reply to message #84763] |
Sat, 15 May 2010 20:57 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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The solid-pin striker is the version designed and originally passed around
by Bill Bramlett; it has a solid pin welded into the base plate, with no
rubber between the riveted pin and the visible striker sleeve. I understand
Burt & Faye Curtis now make them and probably provide them to JimK for
resale.
It's apparently the removal of the resilient rubber, probably now
deteriorated, that enables the latch to close more positively with the door
more fully closed.
Ken H.
On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 9:51 PM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks. What exactly is a "solid-pin striker?" Is that what Applied sells?
> I think my pin/post is riveted to the plate. Is the solid-pin like welded?
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84798 is a reply to message #84769] |
Sun, 16 May 2010 07:37 |
shawnee
Messages: 422
Registered: February 2004
Location: NC
Karma: 0
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| Tom Lins wrote on Sat, 15 May 2010 22:45 |
| Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 15 May 2010 21:57 |
The solid-pin striker is the version designed and originally passed around
by Bill Bramlett;
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Boy every time I think I have reduced the things to fix or upgrade I find something else that I must have ...
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Tom,
This really works. Bill Bramlett installed one on my coach about 5 years ago and the door closes easily ever since. Bill is a fountain of wisdom and it is a treat to be around him at Bean Station when he works on things.
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84808 is a reply to message #84804] |
Sun, 16 May 2010 08:36 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Tony,
That's potentially a toughy! I was going to suggest an all-thread retainer,
then I checked the parts book and saw that the bolts have loose nuts &
washers rather than a nut plate. :-(
Your only option seems to be to SOMEHOW gain access to the back side of the
door jamb. Sure hope the configuration of your coach allows that without
gutting it. I think if I ever got to it, I'd replace the loose retainers
with a nut plate.
Ken H.
On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Barb & Tony <tbpartridge@comcast.net>wrote:
> OK... I'm ready to try again to install the striker that I purchased a
> year
> ago. I was unable to remove the bolts without the back plate & nuts falling
> off. Any ideas or way to follow thru with this installation?
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84810 is a reply to message #84808] |
Sun, 16 May 2010 08:51 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 16 May 2010 09:36 |
That's potentially a toughy!
|
Fortunately, I was able to get some access to the backside, but my nuts were also connected together with a retainer plate, in pairs. I have no idea if that was someone else's fix, or if the parts book isn't all the way thorough on this topic. I recall that Emery had a scheme for dealing with this problem, too, but I don't remember what it was.
If access the nuts is just impossible, and if loosening one of the screws slightly reveals that it can't be removed with that access, then I wonder if Bill's idea could be partially simulated by drilling a hole in the top of the striker plate, and injecting epoxy into the hole with a syringe? Maybe heating the bolt with a torch just enough to let what remains of the rubber to settle to the bottom would make room for the epoxy to eliminate voids.
Personally, though, this improvement is so worthwhile that I would just find a way to gain access to the back of the striker plate. I was a doubter, too--my factory striker bolt seemed solid already (except for the slamming).
The only alternative with the current bolt would be to close it gently until it clicks into the safety latch, and then rest the palm of your hand on the door above the handle and give a powerful push. I could do that and make it latch all the way without the additional inevitable damage resulting from slamming.
Rick "one of the top five most useful repairs on my coach" Denney
'73 Glacier 230 "Jaws"
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #84988 is a reply to message #84810] |
Mon, 17 May 2010 15:13 |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691
Registered: March 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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Does anyone have any pictures of the before and after ......?
Thanks
Mike in NS
On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 10:51 AM, Rick Denney <rick@rickdenney.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 16 May 2010 09:36
> > That's potentially a toughy!
>
>
> Fortunately, I was able to get some access to the backside, but my nuts
> were also connected together with a retainer plate, in pairs. I have no idea
> if that was someone else's fix, or if the parts book isn't all the way
> thorough on this topic. I recall that Emery had a scheme for dealing with
> this problem, too, but I don't remember what it was.
>
> If access the nuts is just impossible, and if loosening one of the screws
> slightly reveals that it can't be removed with that access, then I wonder if
> Bill's idea could be partially simulated by drilling a hole in the top of
> the striker plate, and injecting epoxy into the hole with a syringe? Maybe
> heating the bolt with a torch just enough to let what remains of the rubber
> to settle to the bottom would make room for the epoxy to eliminate voids.
>
> Personally, though, this improvement is so worthwhile that I would just
> find a way to gain access to the back of the striker plate. I was a doubter,
> too--my factory striker bolt seemed solid already (except for the slamming).
>
> The only alternative with the current bolt would be to close it gently
> until it clicks into the safety latch, and then rest the palm of your hand
> on the door above the handle and give a powerful push. I could do that and
> make it latch all the way without the additional inevitable damage resulting
> from slamming.
>
> Rick "one of the top five most useful repairs on my coach" Denney
> --
> '73 Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #85038 is a reply to message #85021] |
Mon, 17 May 2010 22:31 |
Charles
Messages: 455
Registered: January 2004
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Senior Member |
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Unless you want to loose the plate that the screws
holding the pin plate to the door jam are screwed into,
I suggest anyone planning on replacing the door pin should
study how the original is installed before removing the
bolts. On those I have worked on the two left screws
are in a plate. The two right screws are in to nuts and
washers. I have been able to get to the nuts and
washers by pushing the panel away from the door frame.
Use a wide tool to pry and bow the panel. On one coach we
tried to use a large screwdriver and it damaged the panel.
After we removed the two right side screws we
loosened both screws in the left side. Then we carefully
removed the bottom left screw completely and pivoted the
pin plate to the side and reinstalled the screw with the
pin plate out of the way. We used that screw to hold
the back plate while we removed the other screw. Then
we attached the replacement plate using the top screw.
We were then able to remove the bottom screw and
swivel the new plate around and install the bottom screw.
Then get some needle nose pliers and install the screws
nuts and washers. If you drop a nut or two just get some
more. snug all screws and adjust the pin position. Once it
is properly located so the door closes easily. tighten the
screws as tight as you can get them. If you don't get them
tight, in time, the plate will move. I have had to go through
the refrigerator access door and cut some material out
to get to the back of the door frame in one coach where
we dropped the backing plate.
Charles
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Charles Wersal
Duncanville, Texas
26 foot 1975 Glenbrook
Pandora's Box
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| Re: [GMCnet] slamming the door [message #85047 is a reply to message #85038] |
Mon, 17 May 2010 23:28 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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If you have a nut plate, use all-thread or a cut off long bolt in one of the
nutplate holes before removing the other screw. Slide the striker off of
the long bolt without releasing the nut plate.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 11:31 PM, Charles <gcw13@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Unless you want to loose the plate that the screws
> holding the pin plate to the door jam are screwed into,
> I suggest anyone planning on replacing the door pin should
> study how the original is installed before removing the
> bolts. On those I have worked on the two left screws
> are in a plate. The two right screws are in to nuts and
> washers. I have been able to get to the nuts and
> washers by pushing the panel away from the door frame.
> Use a wide tool to pry and bow the panel. On one coach we
> tried to use a large screwdriver and it damaged the panel.
> After we removed the two right side screws we
> loosened both screws in the left side. Then we carefully
> removed the bottom left screw completely and pivoted the
> pin plate to the side and reinstalled the screw with the
> pin plate out of the way. We used that screw to hold
> the back plate while we removed the other screw. Then
> we attached the replacement plate using the top screw.
> We were then able to remove the bottom screw and
> swivel the new plate around and install the bottom screw.
> Then get some needle nose pliers and install the screws
> nuts and washers. If you drop a nut or two just get some
> more. snug all screws and adjust the pin position. Once it
> is properly located so the door closes easily. tighten the
> screws as tight as you can get them. If you don't get them
> tight, in time, the plate will move. I have had to go through
> the refrigerator access door and cut some material out
> to get to the back of the door frame in one coach where
> we dropped the backing plate.
> Charles
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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