Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Old nasty air bags and alum cones
| [GMCnet] Old nasty air bags and alum cones [message #77536] |
Sun, 21 March 2010 18:53  |
Len Novak
Messages: 676
Registered: February 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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I have to restart this subject again as I lost all the emails responses from
the previous post. Apologies to those that responded but all I found was my
original post.
"The new dual air bag system is in and working just fine. I have two really
> nasty air bags with aluminum cones that hold air. Great for a spare or to
> someone on the Black List to aid a GMCer in distress.
The dual bag system works just fine and handles a bit better than the
original system. The old bags are really nasty, peeling in places but they
do hold air.
Cheers,
Len and Pat
78 Kingsley, The Beast II with dash lights that work
Fallbrook, CA
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Las Vegas, NV new email: B52sRule@Gmail.com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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| Re: [GMCnet] battery drain [message #77545 is a reply to message #77542] |
Sun, 21 March 2010 19:29  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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| Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 21 March 2010 20:12 |
my engine battery drains down after a few weeks. I have replaced the battery with a new one...same thing....something is draining the battery down but I can'f find it....it is not the door adjar, not the trouble lite...any ideas?.....brian 77 ele 455
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Welcome Brian: could be boost switch left on, radio, CB, or anything 12V a PO has installed unswitched. If you take the negative post off the battery and put a meter between the cable and the battery you can tell how much draw you got. With the meter still installed start pulling fuses out of the fuse panel in the glovebox behind the metal plate with one screw in it. Pull a fuse the check the draw or get a buddy to watch. When the draw quits you will know which circuit it is. If none stops the draw, unhook the Alt, maybe a bad diode?. You could even have a small bare spot in a battery cable.
Let us know what you find... Good Luck
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] battery drain [message #77548 is a reply to message #77542] |
Sun, 21 March 2010 19:41 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 21 March 2010 19:12 |
my engine battery drains down after a few weeks. I have replaced the battery with a new one...same thing....something is draining the battery down but I can'f find it....it is not the door adjar, not the trouble lite...any ideas?.....brian 77 ele 455
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I just fought a similar problem on my Colorado. In the end it turned out to be a self-inflicted problem that I installed when I installed a compass outside temperature mirror. I started with a 600 ma drain and got it down to 18 ma. That 18 ma was the body computer. Since a GMC does not have an engine or body computer you should be able to get the drain down that low or even 0 if you do not have a memory radio or electronic clock.
Here is the way I would go at it. Turn off everything electrical in the coach. Disconnect either engine battery cable. I usually do the negative one. Take a Digital Multimeter with a 10 amp scale and hook one lead to the battery post. Hook the second lead to the removed battery cable. You should now be able to read the battery drain. You probably will need to reduce the scale to a lower setting than 10 amps but start on that scale first.
Now go inside and start removing the engine side fuses one at a time while watching the meter. The fuses are located behind the metal plate inside the glove compartment. You should now be able which fuse has the drain on it. If none of the fuses produce the desired reduction then you need to disconnect other things like the alternator, isolator and boost solenoid until you find the load.
I am hoping that you do not have two batteries wired in parallel. If you do maybe they are self discharging each other.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] battery drain [message #77768 is a reply to message #77545] |
Tue, 23 March 2010 17:00 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409
Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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boost switch is a possibility...I will try your isolation plan...thanks,,,brian
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: covered-wagon@comcast.net
> Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 19:29:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] battery drain
>
>
>
> Brian Waddell wrote on Sun, 21 March 2010 20:12
> > my engine battery drains down after a few weeks. I have replaced the battery with a new one...same thing....something is draining the battery down but I can'f find it....it is not the door adjar, not the trouble lite...any ideas?.....brian 77 ele 455
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Stay in touch.
> > http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9712959
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Welcome Brian: could be boost switch left on, radio, CB, or anything 12V a PO has installed unswitched. If you take the negative post off the battery and put a meter between the cable and the battery you can tell how much draw you got. With the meter still installed start pulling fuses out of the fuse panel in the glovebox behind the metal plate with one screw in it. Pull a fuse the check the draw or get a buddy to watch. When the draw quits you will know which circuit it is. If none stops the draw, unhook the Alt, maybe a bad diode?. You could even have a small bare spot in a battery cable.
> Let us know what you find... Good Luck
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont by Midas
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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IM on the go with Messenger on your phone
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| Re: [GMCnet] battery drain [message #77781 is a reply to message #77769] |
Tue, 23 March 2010 18:52 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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The West Marine catalog has a large section on 12 Volt (nominal)
DC systems. Most larger boats with two engines come with a
four-position switch to connect power to the normal two engine
batteries. The positions are 1, 2, BOTH, and OFF. It is very
easy to choose which mode you wish to use. However, you are
always cautioned to NEVER switch to OFF while engines/alternators
are running, because you WILL blow out rectifying diodes within
the alternator.
You could probably set this up in a coach to have #1 (engine battery)
turned on to charge that battery for a while after engine start to
restore its charge. After that, you could switch to #2 (house battery)
to charge it during your day's travel.
REMEMBER: DO NOT SWITCH TO OR THROUGH "OFF" WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING!
When you arrive at destination, continue using house battery until
time to "break camp" and start travel once again. Then switch
(through BOTH) back to #1 for engine start and repeat the drill.
You should acquire and install a multi-battery "smart" charger to
keep up both batteries while on shore power. These have totally
separate (and isolated) electronically controlled sections for
each battery. They will NOT boil a good battery dry. I don't
really have a "house" battery on my boat, in BOTH position while
actually out on the water. The "smart" charger charges the batteries
separately while in the marina on "shore" power.
I use group 31 Optima Marine batteries.
Additionally, don't worry about carrying a BIG battery for the genset.
A good quality, sealed battery for any large motorcyle (Harley, e.g.)
will serve just fine for genset starting. My Kohler genset will charge
that battery easily for the comparitively small starting drain. I use
a 3/4 Amp Battery Tender (also electronically controlled) on my genset
battery. Buy the "real thing" at about $35 to $40. Don't waste your
money or put your battery in jeopardy with cheap far east knockoffs.
Good luck!
Mac Macdonald
Oklahoma City
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| Re: [GMCnet] battery drain [message #77789 is a reply to message #77781] |
Tue, 23 March 2010 20:05 |
van.one
Messages: 70
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Mac,
Pleasse email me so I will have your email address.
van van.one@cox.net
or <van.one@gamil.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "D C *Mac* Macdonald" <k2gkk@hotmail.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] battery drain
>
> The West Marine catalog has a large section on 12 Volt (nominal)
> DC systems. Most larger boats with two engines come with a
> four-position switch to connect power to the normal two engine
> batteries. The positions are 1, 2, BOTH, and OFF. It is very
> easy to choose which mode you wish to use. However, you are
> always cautioned to NEVER switch to OFF while engines/alternators
> are running, because you WILL blow out rectifying diodes within
> the alternator.
>
> You could probably set this up in a coach to have #1 (engine battery)
> turned on to charge that battery for a while after engine start to
> restore its charge. After that, you could switch to #2 (house battery)
> to charge it during your day's travel.
>
> REMEMBER: DO NOT SWITCH TO OR THROUGH "OFF" WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING!
>
> When you arrive at destination, continue using house battery until
> time to "break camp" and start travel once again. Then switch
> (through BOTH) back to #1 for engine start and repeat the drill.
>
> You should acquire and install a multi-battery "smart" charger to
> keep up both batteries while on shore power. These have totally
> separate (and isolated) electronically controlled sections for
> each battery. They will NOT boil a good battery dry. I don't
> really have a "house" battery on my boat, in BOTH position while
> actually out on the water. The "smart" charger charges the batteries
> separately while in the marina on "shore" power.
>
> I use group 31 Optima Marine batteries.
>
> Additionally, don't worry about carrying a BIG battery for the genset.
> A good quality, sealed battery for any large motorcyle (Harley, e.g.)
> will serve just fine for genset starting. My Kohler genset will charge
> that battery easily for the comparitively small starting drain. I use
> a 3/4 Amp Battery Tender (also electronically controlled) on my genset
> battery. Buy the "real thing" at about $35 to $40. Don't waste your
> money or put your battery in jeopardy with cheap far east knockoffs.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mac Macdonald
> Oklahoma City
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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