GMCforum
For enthusiast of the Classic GMC Motorhome built from 1973 to 1978. A web-based mirror of the GMCnet mailing list.

Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Fuel Tank Repairs
Fuel Tank Repairs [message #76560] Sat, 13 March 2010 15:19 Go to next message
Gil Slaw is currently offline  Gil Slaw   United States
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2006
Location: Hampshire, IL
Karma: 0
Member
There has been a lot of good discussion regarding internal fuel tank coating, I thought that add something a bit diferrent to the pot.

I have had good luck repairing/modifying gas tanks however before any work is done they must be impeccably clean...NO FUEL smell!!!None! or you can get in big trouble with a very nasty and possibly fatal fire or explosion.

I have cleaned tanks by using a least 2 wash cycles of dish washing detergent and water to completely fill and completely empty the tanks, then a forced air purge until completely dry indie including any pipes. Let dry for a couple of days in the sun, then sniff again. Find a young person the help in the last sniff, their senses are much better then that of anyone reading this posting!

Do NOT try to weld, or braze the tank. They are deep drawn steel with all kinds of internal stress and I assure you that they will crack when cooling.

The high heat will also destroy the zinc anti-rust coating (if any) on the internal surface.

Soldering is the only way that I have made any successful repairs. Soldering on a patch over a pin hole is a very acceptable repair. You must have a good electrical soldering iron, 100 watts, or more is needed. Using a torch is next to impossible because of surface contamination, the possibility of overheating the metal and the concern of any residual fuel fumes.

My disclaimer is to use care, know what you are doing and understand the risks of fire and explosion if even the minutest traces of fuel remain in the tank, or the work area.

Remember, If you would not drink your coffee from the tank, don't try to fix it.

Gil








Re: Fuel Tank Repairs [message #76569 is a reply to message #76560] Sat, 13 March 2010 19:07 Go to previous message
George Beckman is currently offline  George Beckman   United States
Messages: 1085
Registered: October 2008
Location: Colfax, CA
Karma: 11
Senior Member
Gil Slaw wrote on Sat, 13 March 2010 13:19

There has been a lot of good discussion regarding internal fuel tank coating, I thought that add something a bit diferrent to the pot.


Do NOT try to weld, or braze the tank. They are deep drawn steel with all kinds of internal stress and I assure you that they will crack when cooling.

Soldering is the only way that I have made any successful repairs. Soldering on a patch over a pin hole is a very acceptable repair. You must have a good electrical soldering iron, 100 watts, or more is needed. Using a torch is next to impossible because of surface contamination, the possibility of overheating the metal and the concern of any residual fuel fumes.

My disclaimer is to use care, know what you are doing and understand the risks of fire and explosion if even the minutest traces of fuel remain in the tank, or the work area.


Gil





At JimK's, a year ago, they found a pin hole on top of the main tank where the baffle had torn loose. I was given the choice of how to fix it. One was a tootsie roll like product that had two layers. THey cut a hunk off and kneaded for a few minutes. They shined and roughed the area up. They worked it into the hole, leaving a 1 inch flattened gob. It set up looking like JB Weld.

When we pulled the tank last week, the patch looked perfect, was hard as a brick and had not leaked a drop. Well pleased with that stuff and the job.


'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
Previous Topic: [GMCnet] Fort Worth, Texas GMC Mechanic??
Next Topic: [GMCnet] Front tires
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Sat Nov 16 01:29:43 CST 2024

Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01439 seconds