| Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74244] |
Thu, 18 February 2010 11:24  |
captjack
Messages: 271
Registered: February 2010
Location: Sebastopol, California
Karma: 1
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The '76 Glenbrook/Clasco I just bought has damage on the body where the driver's side mirror attaches because a PO must have hit something with the mirror. So I pulled off the inside plastic side panel (has the ashtray) to get at the body to fix the damage so I can remount the mirror.
Under the panel I removed I found that about 4 inches of the wood floor board had severe dry rot from prior water leakage. Poor choice of plywood type on GM's part. I'll have to replace the floorboard as a later project, but are there any recommendations on stopping the leak, at least temporarily? I noted some window sealing tape on Jim K's site. Does it work and not look awful?
Jack - K6ROW
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
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| Re: Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74282 is a reply to message #74244] |
Thu, 18 February 2010 19:04  |
bryant374
Messages: 563
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma: 1
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Floor Rot & Leaks Thu, 18 February 2010 12:24
captjack
The '76 Glenbrook/Clasco I just bought has damage on the body where the driver's side mirror attaches because a PO must have hit something with the mirror. So I pulled off the inside plastic side panel (has the ashtray) to get at the body to fix the damage so I can remount the mirror.
Under the panel I removed I found that about 4 inches of the wood floor board had severe dry rot from prior water leakage. Poor choice of plywood type on GM's part. I'll have to replace the floorboard as a later project, but are there any recommendations on stopping the leak, at least temporarily? I noted some window sealing tape on Jim K's site. Does it work and not look awful?
Jack - K6ROW
Jack, 1973 & 74 floors are 1" plywood, 1975 to 78 are 3/4" plywood. I had used a "rot fixer" on some old car wood which worked very well. Unfortunately I don't remember the full name correctly, it was poly.... (poly rot, poly fill, etc) It saturates the rot and makes a firm substance, not sure I would want to use it on a structural part but quite a reasonable option.
Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
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| Re: Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74286 is a reply to message #74244] |
Thu, 18 February 2010 19:14 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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I assume it's the slider window where the water is coming in? Usually caued by cloged drain slots or because the U channel was replaced at some point and not cut out to line up with the drains. Typed on my iPhone. Short answer
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74327 is a reply to message #74282] |
Fri, 19 February 2010 00:10 |
jw mills
Messages: 199
Registered: September 2006
Karma: -30
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Here is an interesting article:
<http://www.epoxyproducts.com/rot.html>
Here are a couple of products:
<http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/viewcategories.asp>
<http://www.rotdoctor.com/>
--
Jim Mills
Greeley, CO
1973 CanyonLands 260 TZE-063V100731(under renovation)
1973 Glacier 230 TZE-033V101993
On Thu, 2010-02-18 at 19:04 -0600, Bill Bryant wrote:
>
> Floor Rot & Leaks Thu, 18 February 2010 12:24
> captjack
>
> The '76 Glenbrook/Clasco I just bought has damage on the body where the driver's side mirror attaches because a PO must have hit something with the mirror. So I pulled off the inside plastic side panel (has the ashtray) to get at the body to fix the damage so I can remount the mirror.
>
> Under the panel I removed I found that about 4 inches of the wood floor board had severe dry rot from prior water leakage. Poor choice of plywood type on GM's part. I'll have to replace the floorboard as a later project, but are there any recommendations on stopping the leak, at least temporarily? I noted some window sealing tape on Jim K's site. Does it work and not look awful?
>
> Jack - K6ROW
>
>
> Jack, 1973 & 74 floors are 1" plywood, 1975 to 78 are 3/4" plywood. I had used a "rot fixer" on some old car wood which worked very well. Unfortunately I don't remember the full name correctly, it was poly.... (poly rot, poly fill, etc) It saturates the rot and makes a firm substance, not sure I would want to use it on a structural part but quite a reasonable option.
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| Re: Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74338 is a reply to message #74244] |
Fri, 19 February 2010 06:41 |
lance
Messages: 190
Registered: December 2004
Location: Vancouver, WA
Karma: 0
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The front glass in our GMC's is a problem area, prone to leaks from several sources. I've discovered that the rubber seal around the windshield halves will most likely leak in a hard rain or sustained wet conditions. You can re-seal it yourself but just go to a glass shop and have the pros do it. The cost is minimal. The slider windows are the most problematical. Get the slider window seal kit from one of the Jim's and put it in or have the glass shop do it. I've done one more thing that helps. I noticed that the outside track of the slider glass stays filled with water when it rains. It then slowly creaps in and runs down the inside of the outer skin. You never see it so it continues. So, I drilled a 3/16" hole right in the aluminum frame near the back end of the track to allow the rain water to drain out. I cut just a bit of the rubber seal as well to allow the water to pass. Sorry, no photo, but this helps a lot, but it still leaks just a little.
I live in the Northwest and am currently a full-timer so I am an expert at leaks. These coaches are well designed but after 34 years, they all leak and need to be re-sealed. One last tip. Do not ever use silicone. Remove all silicone and re-seal with an RV sealent. One brand is Lexol. It's clear and stinks like the airplane glue we had as kids. Ask your local RV guy or email me if you have questions.
1974 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor Rot & Leaks [message #74345 is a reply to message #74327] |
Fri, 19 February 2010 08:46 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
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mills writes...
> Here are a couple of products:
> <http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/viewcategories.asp>
> <http://www.rotdoctor.com/>
CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) is probably the best, but I have
also used System Three and it's okay.
In the floorboards under my windows, I could punch through them with
my finger, so epoxy wasn't the answer.
Nor do I think it is always possible to eliminate those leaks, despite
what people assert. I have not been able to eliminate mine, and I've
done everything anyone has ever suggested.
After replacing the damaged floor section, I laid fiberglass over the
top, and up the sides of the body panel, to prevent future water
penetration. Then, I installed a floor drain at the back corner of the
cockpit floor on both sides, to give any entering water a place to go.
That drain is behind the plastic interior panel. I ramped up the
fiberglass to create a lip around the fuel neck opening and the
seat-belt anchors to keep water from using those points as a drain. My
drains are made from a piece of 3/8" copper pipe, flared on one end. I
drilled a 1/2" counter-sunk hole and after a liberal application of
sealant pushed the pipe down into the hole so that the flare nestled
into the countersink.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4432 (though I
made this album before installing the drains).
Rick "waterproof does not necessarily mean watertight" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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'73 Glacier 230 "Jaws"
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