| Battery Isolater with a Yandina combiner or in place of [message #364838] |
Sat, 19 June 2021 11:51  |
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Tom Lins
Messages: 372
Registered: February 2004
Location: St Augustine, FL
Karma: 1
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I hope I am not going to start a flame session but I have to ask for opinions on this.
First some background:
When we first bought the current GMC in 2017 when we started home we had several issues
A dead alternator, a iffy battery (due to age), a battery isolater that was open going to the chassis battery.
While sitting in a campground I changed the alternator only to discover the isolater was open to the chassis battery.
I replaced the isolater also.
About 2 years ago while we had the coach a Sirums, Jeff had to replace the isolater again because it was open to the chassis battery.
Right now I am reading almost 20 volts on the center post of the isolater and 11.9 on the chassis battery.
My question is can I just eliminate the isolater by putting the combiner in place of it and taking the lead from the alternator and wiring it directly to the chassis battery.
Or am I overlooking something.
Tom Lins
St Augustine, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, Aluminum Radiator Quad-Bag Suspension Solar Panel
Manuals on DVD
YOUTUBE Channel: GMC Dealer Training Tapes
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
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| [GMCnet] Re: Battery Isolater with a Yandina combiner or in place of [message #364841 is a reply to message #364838] |
Sat, 19 June 2021 12:15  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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20 volts? That suggests to me that somehow the two battery banks are wired in series, not parallel.
I have a yandina as well as the combiner and it works very well.
Larry Davick
1976 Palm Beach
> On Jun 19, 2021, at 9:51 AM, Tom Lins wrote:
>
> I hope I am not going to start a flame session but I have to ask for opinions on this.
>
> First some background:
> When we first bought the current GMC in 2017 when we started home we had several issues
> A dead alternator, a iffy battery (due to age), a battery isolater that was open going to the chassis battery.
> While sitting in a campground I changed the alternator only to discover the isolater was open to the chassis battery.
> I replaced the isolater also.
> About 2 years ago while we had the coach a Sirums, Jeff had to replace the isolater again because it was open to the chassis battery.
> Right now I am reading almost 20 volts on the center post of the isolater and 11.9 on the chassis battery.
>
> My question is can I just eliminate the isolater by putting the combiner in place of it and taking the lead from the alternator and wiring it directly
> to the chassis battery.
> Or am I overlooking something.
>
>
> --
> Tom Lins
> St Augustine, FL
> 77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, Aluminum Radiator Quad-Bag Suspension Solar Panel
> Manuals on DVD
> YOUTUBE Channel: GMC Dealer Training Tapes
> http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: Battery Isolater with a Yandina combiner or in place of [message #364855 is a reply to message #364838] |
Sun, 20 June 2021 14:11 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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120A isolator and Yandina combiner across the 2 outer terminal and ground. Proven and works automatically like belt and suspenders.
Now do you have an 80A 27SI alternator or something larger? That gives a 40A headroom. Curious why you have isolator problems as no moving parts. Has someone “upgraded” to heavier wiring? The original wiring was designed for Voltage drop at high demand to act as a “cushion” in the circuit. You could have had multiple bad batteries where the impedance drops due to a bad cell and overloads charging system.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
[Updated on: Sun, 20 June 2021 14:12] Report message to a moderator |
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| [GMCnet] Re: Battery Isolater with a Yandina combiner or in place of [message #364856 is a reply to message #364855] |
Sun, 20 June 2021 14:19 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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I would be suspicious of an alternator going unregulated and pushing the
voltage high enough to damage the isolator.
Or, a crossover voltage from a 120 volt power inverter that
inadvertently got cross wired into the 12 volt DC system.
Those isolators are very robust devices if they are sized correctly
for the amperages invovled..
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sun, Jun 20, 2021, 12:12 PM John R. Lebetski
wrote:
> 120A isolator and Yandina combiner across the 2 outer terminal and ground.
> Proven and works automatically like belt and suspenders.
> Now do you have an 80A 27SI alternator or something larger? That gives a
> 40A headroom. Curious why you have isolator problems as no moving parts.
> Has someone “upgraded” to heavier wiring? The original wiring was
> designed for Voltage drop at high demand to act as a “cushion” in the
> circuit. You could have had multiple bad batteries where the impefance
> drops due to a bad cell and overloads charging system.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
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