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How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362016] Wed, 27 January 2021 18:48 Go to next message
Greg C. is currently offline  Greg C.   United States
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil into the engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.

I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless drill or impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.

Of course, it's not cheap.


https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html


Greg Crawford KM4ZCR Knoxville, TN "Ruby Sue" 1977 Royale Rear Bath 403 Engine American Eagle Wheels Early Version Alex Sirum Quad bags
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362022 is a reply to message #362016] Wed, 27 January 2021 19:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   Canada
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Location: S.E. Michigan
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Senior Member
Greg C. wrote on Wed, 27 January 2021 19:48
I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil into the engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.

I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless drill or impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.

Of course, it's not cheap.
https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html
Greg,

I think the spinach factor makes this a definite loser when compared to something like an Accusump.

If you are thinking of oiling a dry engine, just pop out the distibutor and do it the easy way.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362027 is a reply to message #362016] Thu, 28 January 2021 04:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
PeteSr is currently offline  PeteSr   Spain
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Registered: October 2020
Location: New Port Richey, FL
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I have wondered about something like this. But, how would you tie it into the engine's oil system? Spring loaded ball check valves? And where to tie into the oil system? I like the idea of using a drill vs. a permanent motor that has to be wired into power & control logic as I would only use it after prolonged idleness (i.e. over a week or so).

Regards,
Pete P.


78 Eleganza II
Stock 403 w/ Carb
Single Cinnebar bags
6kW Onan
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362030 is a reply to message #362022] Thu, 28 January 2021 07:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rjw   United States
Messages: 697
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Matt Colie wrote on Wed, 27 January 2021 20:47
Greg C. wrote on Wed, 27 January 2021 19:48
I have been researching pre-oilers, specifically the passive holding tank type that utilize an ignition on operated solenoid to release oil into the engine to pressurize the oil galleys before starting.

I found this, which looked like a really great solution for engines that haven't been started in a while. You can operate it with a cordless drill or impact. This is the smaller one of two they have.

Of course, it's not cheap.
https://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-SmallPrimerRemote.html
Greg,

I think the spinach factor makes this a definite loser when compared to something like an Accusump.

If you are thinking of oiling a dry engine, just pop out the distibutor and do it the easy way.

Matt
Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off, crank the engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10 years.


Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com

Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water heaters.
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362032 is a reply to message #362030] Thu, 28 January 2021 09:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   Canada
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Location: S.E. Michigan
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rjw wrote on Thu, 28 January 2021 08:55
Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off, crank the engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10 years.
While Richard is not wrong, the same can be accomplished by simply not setting the choke on a carbureted engine. Mine will never start until I stroke the throttle (usually twice when I actually want her to start right up). So I can crank as long as I want with no threat of her starting. The small amount of fuel that does get into the engine pools in the intake manifold and waits.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362033 is a reply to message #362016] Thu, 28 January 2021 10:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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Location: Woodstock, IL
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Where are you trying to prevent wear? If walls and rings this does nothing. And cranking with no fuel pressure is causing dry wall scraping. New EFI cars start and immediately go to about 2000 RPM then taper down as they warm. You need RPM to throw oil up on the walls off the crankshaft. Pre oiling leaves the rings dry. I want my engines to start with least amount of crank time. So far so good.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362051 is a reply to message #362032] Thu, 28 January 2021 16:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
rjw   United States
Messages: 697
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Matt Colie wrote on Thu, 28 January 2021 10:35
rjw wrote on Thu, 28 January 2021 08:55
Another advantage of TBI fuel injection, is what I do. I have a "fuel pump" switch on my "Custom Instrument Panels" dash. I turn it off, crank the engine until I see ~40 PSI oil pressure on the gage, then turn the pump on and start the engine. I've been doing that for over 10 years.
While Richard is not wrong, the same can be accomplished by simply not setting the choke on a carbureted engine. Mine will never start until I stroke the throttle (usually twice when I actually want her to start right up). So I can crank as long as I want with no threat of her starting. The small amount of fuel that does get into the engine pools in the intake manifold and waits.

Matt
My engine will start immediately on cranking if I have the fuel pump switch "on" which is way I leave it "off" after it has been sitting still for a long time. Such as after the winter hiatuss. Before TBI it would not start until choke was set etc.


Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com

Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water heaters.
Re: How to build oil pressure before starting that Olds [message #362052 is a reply to message #362033] Thu, 28 January 2021 17:01 Go to previous message
rjw   United States
Messages: 697
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 4
Senior Member
JohnL455 wrote on Thu, 28 January 2021 11:05
Where are you trying to prevent wear? If walls and rings this does nothing. And cranking with no fuel pressure is causing dry wall scraping. New EFI cars start and immediately go to about 2000 RPM then taper down as they warm. You need RPM to throw oil up on the walls off the crankshaft. Pre oiling leaves the rings dry. I want my engines to start with least amount of crank time. So far so good.
I think I will keep on doing what I have been doing. So far so good after the over 130,000 miles I put on it since I bought my GMC.


Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com

Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water heaters.
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