The 12 volt converter in my recently acquired 73 Canyon Lands 230 is buzzing away but isn't distributing it's power anywhere.
I looked through the fold out wiring schematic that I have and the converter isn't on it.
Should I be looking for a blown fuse or breaker, or something else?
Jared

On the Onan, meter before the AC breaker on top rear. It may have popped or need exercise if you are lucky. Next would be the bridge rectifier to pull and test. After that it could be worn brushes. If none of the above it could be the field winding has failed. Will need rewind or swap. Not so good.
On the 455 the Olds heads have a shelf edge. If the rod bearings have too much clearance the piston raps that area and makes a racket. Usually worst around 1500-2000 then quieter above that. They can run a while that way just can’t say how long.

That sounds more like a circuit breaker opening up under excessive load
from the air conditioner compressor trying to start up.

JMHO

Stu

> I will take another look at the Onan. When you say meter.... like a
> voltage meter? Is there one onboard the generator? It is a 4kw btw.
>
> It was the first time it had been fired up in lord only knows how
> long. The coach was last registered in 1998. It ran the fan on the air
> conditioner
> and just a few seconds after I switched it to the point where the
> compressor would kick on, it stopped putting out power. No voltage at
> the outlets
> via my DMM.
>
> Thanks for the clues.... Jared

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Check the breaker at the top of the generator. It is before the 4 pin receptacle electrically.

Check the breaker at the top of the generator. It is before the 4 pin receptacle electrically.

If it's the one I'm thinking of (says OFF - ON ), it's on.

Jared

Yep, checked power at the breaker, 5.9v AC at L1 on the Onan breaker. It's the Onan.

I figured I was going to have to pull this thing.... yuck. Doesn't look difficult, but it's more time to commit and the crappy fall Washington weather is right on time.

Is the bridge rectifier something that will just go kaput all of a sudden?

Where do you guys recommend I source a replacement (after I test it to prove it's bad).

I Amazon'd a Progressive Dynamics charger/converter to replace the old buzz box.... should be here in a few hours.

Just about ready to pull the sail switch out of the furnace.... voltage dead ends there which explains why the gas solenoid isn't opening. I was able to couple and reroute the main aluminum feed line into the gas valve. The aluminum tube rotted right at the copper fitting where it connects to the main LP Line. Soapy water, no leaks, pilot lights up and stays lit. Hopefully I can clean the sail switch with some contact cleaner and cross that project off the list for now.

Jared

Cool, already have a hoist.

I even have a 2 post lift in the shop, we installed it about 4 months ago. If I had visited a fortune teller and she told me I would have 2 GMC MH's in the near future.... I would have installed a 12k lift. Certainly would have come in handy when I get ready to pull the engine. I'm considering rolling the front clip out.
<snip>
Jared

lotsofspareparts wrote on Sat, 10 October 2020 17:17

Cool, already have a hoist.

I even have a 2 post lift in the shop, we installed it about 4 months ago. If I had visited a fortune teller and she told me I would have 2 GMC MH's in the near future.... I would have installed a 12k lift. Certainly would have come in handy when I get ready to pull the engine. I'm considering rolling the front clip out.
<snip>
Jared

Jared,

It is a major PITA to pull the front frame out, but it is well worth the effort. I was advised of this by Dave Lenzi of all people.

Yes, there is a lot to it, but if you pull the front frame out, there is a lot you can do that is just not possible if you go out the top. The bottom is only slightly better. A big thing is that if your exhaust parts don't unscrew (slim chance there), you now have them out in the open to deal with that. I also was glad I did because I could not get any of the exhaust to separate so my engine came out with the Y and mufflers. That was nearly a heart attack when I saw that both mufflers were just short of breaching the top skin.....
With the engine back in the frame, you can test run it to set the timing and break in the cam. You have to put a short hose on the cooling loop but there is little else that needs to be done.

Things that are a pain:
Undo the brake lines at the master and carefully bend them clear and the single rear line at the combination valve.
The A/C system will have to be openned at the evaporator.
The steering box will have to be dropped and the hoses for the wiper motor disconnected.
The battery tray unbolts with the air tank below it.
As it is a '73 and a Powerlevel, just get 5 (or maybe 6) couplings and cut the air lines going aft. I didn't the first time, it was a major pain getting them out and back in to where they needed to go. I was smarter the second time.
I didn't mention that I did this twice in less than a year because after the engine rebuild, we had this issue on I-95 in SC and that bent the front frame. I had to change it out.

If you are going to do this, ask me about the "gun sight" timing marks. I haven't had time to write this one up yet.

Matt