Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295450 is a reply to message #295436] |
Fri, 12 February 2016 20:41   |
Bill Van Vlack
Messages: 419
Registered: September 2015
Location: Guemes Island, Washington
Karma: 14
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Senior Member |
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I'm in the process of installing new brake lines (SS from Classic Tube, but that's another story) and approaching the bleeding stage. The MC is about 8 years old so I'm not replacing it. The MC is empty from draining while we removed the old lines. Here's what I've got figured out so far.
Cut and bend the old supply lines to route into the reservoirs.
Fill MC with fluid and pump the brake pedal until bubbles stop.
Remove the lines and plug the ports. At this point the brakes should be rock solid.
Install Jim H's bleeder.
Remove front brakes plug and connect new supply line.
Bleed PS until bubbles stop then do DS. Pedal should be rock solid.
Cap all rear brake lines at slave cylinder connection except PS rear.
Bleed. Pedal should be rock solid.
Repeat for PS mid, DS rear, and finally PS rear.
Drive coach and re-bleed normally (i.e., without isolating sections).
Comments?
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid November 2015.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295451 is a reply to message #295450] |
Fri, 12 February 2016 20:54 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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When i use hupy bleeder, i just fill it up. Hook it up. Pressureize it. Then open up all the bleeders. I then keep it pumped up and wait a few minutes and start closing bleeders starting up front.
Done this a few times, on new master, replaced the combo valve another time. Last summer was alll 4 rear cylinders.
That bleeder just works! Always had good pedal after using it.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295474 is a reply to message #295472] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 06:25 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Espen,
MM X-7525 says to bleed the closest first, however, MM X-7625 changed it to bleed the furthest first.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Espen Heitmann
I always bleed furthest away from the master first, just to get rid of as much air as possible, other than that it seams right to me
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295475 is a reply to message #295436] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 06:38 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever visit someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the bleed screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too, but teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295479 is a reply to message #295475] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 11:04 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes both
resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if it
will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
bunch of time, and failed.
3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that is
the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the bleeder
screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address in
on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever visit
> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the bleed
> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into
> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too, but
> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>
> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works
> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295483 is a reply to message #295479] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 12:24 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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IF you have all disc brakes, you can easily eliminate the "distribution
valve" (metering valve) and save your combination valve. Look on
GMCMHPhotos under "kenhenders" for "Deciphering the Combination Valve".
Ken H.
On Feb 13, 2016 12:05 PM, "James Hupy" wrote:
> A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
> 1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes both
> resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
> fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
> the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
> 2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
> attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
> wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
> looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
> manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
> Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
> system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if it
> will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
> disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
> proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
> bunch of time, and failed.
> 3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that is
> the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
> and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
> seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
> cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
> cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the bleeder
> screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
> VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
> THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
> SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
> work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
> finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
> depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
> talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address in
> on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever
> visit
>> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the
> bleed
>> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
>> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
>> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
>> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
>> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into
>> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too,
> but
>> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>>
>> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works
>> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
>> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control
> Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295484 is a reply to message #295483] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 12:33 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Listen to Colonel Ken on the all disc system. His simple modification to
the original distribution valve works very well. I have done it his way
many times and prefer it to using the new all brass replacement valves. If
you try to loosen the brake lines connecting the valve, I guarantee that
you will twist off a couple of the lines and round off the fittings as well.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Feb 13, 2016 10:25 AM, "Ken Henderson" wrote:
> IF you have all disc brakes, you can easily eliminate the "distribution
> valve" (metering valve) and save your combination valve. Look on
> GMCMHPhotos under "kenhenders" for "Deciphering the Combination Valve".
>
> Ken H.
> On Feb 13, 2016 12:05 PM, "James Hupy" wrote:
>
>> A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
>> 1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes
> both
>> resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
>> fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
>> the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
>> 2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
>> attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
>> wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
>> looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
>> manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
>> Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
>> system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if
> it
>> will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
>> disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
>> proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
>> bunch of time, and failed.
>> 3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that
> is
>> the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
>> and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
>> seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
>> cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
>> cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the
> bleeder
>> screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
>> VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
>> THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
>> SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
>> work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
>> finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
>> depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
>> talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address
> in
>> on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, OR
>> 78 GMC Royale 403
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie
> wrote:
>>
>>> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever
>> visit
>>> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the
>> bleed
>>> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
>>> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
>>> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
>>> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
>>> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting
> into
>>> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too,
>> but
>>> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>>>
>>> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding
> works
>>> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>> --
>>> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
>>> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control
>> Arms
>>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295493 is a reply to message #295474] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 14:42 |
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Loffen
Messages: 1087
Registered: August 2013
Location: Norway
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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USAussie wrote on Sat, 13 February 2016 13:25Espen,
MM X-7525 says to bleed the closest first, however, MM X-7625 changed it to bleed the furthest first.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Espen Heitmann
I always bleed furthest away from the master first, just to get rid of as much air as possible, other than that it seams right to me
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This is what I did learn to do a long time ago when I did start to work on vehicles from a couple of real mechanics, you know from the time when you did not go and buy a new part, you made it, not like the parts changers that call them self mechanics today 
1973 23' # 1848 Sky Blue Glacier called Baby Blue and a 1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Green,
And sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295500 is a reply to message #295479] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 16:17 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
Jim .left out a several things I thought I would mention:
1) The plate that Jim makes that sits on top of the master cylinder is made out of THICK aluminum (does NOT leak) and has two short
(1/4") long tubes that fill the M/C to the proper level. The ones you buy at auto parts stores are made of plastic and LEAK!
2) I agree with him, Matt, and anyone else that says to wrap the bleeder screws with Teflon tape, HOWEVER, do not make it lots of
wraps one and a half to two MAX.! If you use more it will just get pushed out when you screw the bleeder in.
3) I checked the GENERAL INFORMATION, PERIODIC MAINTENANCE, and LUBRICATION section as well as the BRAKES section of all three MM's
and NONE of them advise that the brake fluid should be flushed regularly! Dot 3 and 4 are hydroscopic and absorb water which in turn
will cause the bore of the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders to rust. I use ATE Racing Brake fluid which recommends
flushing every three years.
I would suggest to those of you who bleed the brakes by getting your wife to help, vacuum bleed, gravity bleed, whatever should
consider buying one of Jim's pressure bleeders.
http://www.bdub.net/jhupy/
Note that he even sells the plate on it's own so you can use the garden sprayer you have already.
I've been asking him to take photos of the current model that uses cables instead of chains and send them to Bdub!
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hupy
A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes both
resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if it
will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
bunch of time, and failed.
3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that is
the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the bleeder
screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address in
on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever visit
> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the bleed
> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into
> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too, but
> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>
> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works
> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>
> Matt
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295509 is a reply to message #295500] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 22:34 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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The Disc-Disc distribution block to me is valuable to leave in the system
as it will warn you when one side of te master cylinder gets weak, as the
warning light goes on.
We cannot afford to bypass this device as it serves as an indicator.
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Robert Mueller
wrote:
> G'day,
>
> Jim .left out a several things I thought I would mention:
>
> 1) The plate that Jim makes that sits on top of the master cylinder is
> made out of THICK aluminum (does NOT leak) and has two short
> (1/4") long tubes that fill the M/C to the proper level. The ones you buy
> at auto parts stores are made of plastic and LEAK!
>
> 2) I agree with him, Matt, and anyone else that says to wrap the bleeder
> screws with Teflon tape, HOWEVER, do not make it lots of
> wraps one and a half to two MAX.! If you use more it will just get pushed
> out when you screw the bleeder in.
>
> 3) I checked the GENERAL INFORMATION, PERIODIC MAINTENANCE, and
> LUBRICATION section as well as the BRAKES section of all three MM's
> and NONE of them advise that the brake fluid should be flushed regularly!
> Dot 3 and 4 are hydroscopic and absorb water which in turn
> will cause the bore of the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders
> to rust. I use ATE Racing Brake fluid which recommends
> flushing every three years.
>
> I would suggest to those of you who bleed the brakes by getting your wife
> to help, vacuum bleed, gravity bleed, whatever should
> consider buying one of Jim's pressure bleeders.
>
> http://www.bdub.net/jhupy/
>
> Note that he even sells the plate on it's own so you can use the garden
> sprayer you have already.
>
> I've been asking him to take photos of the current model that uses cables
> instead of chains and send them to Bdub!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hupy
>
> A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
> 1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes both
> resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
> fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
> the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
> 2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
> attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
> wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
> looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
> manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
> Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
> system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if it
> will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
> disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
> proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
> bunch of time, and failed.
> 3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that is
> the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
> and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
> seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
> cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
> cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the bleeder
> screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
> VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
> THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
> SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
> work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
> finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
> depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
> talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address in
> on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever
> visit
>> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the
> bleed
>> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
>> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
>> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
>> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
>> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into
>> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too,
> but
>> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>>
>> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works
>> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>>
>> Matt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364946 is a reply to message #295436] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 09:23 |
Tom Katzenberger
Messages: 399
Registered: June 2019
Location: Kingsville, MD
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Guys,
While bench bleeding a new master cylinder (P30) I only get flow out of the front chamber. No action in the rear chamber. I do get one single bubble in the rear chamber each stroke. Is the master cylinder toast? Did I blow the rear seal?
Thanks,
Tom K.
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee Ignition
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| [GMCnet] Re: Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364950 is a reply to message #364946] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 10:40 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Typical Red Chinese Crap.
On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 7:23 AM wrote:
> Guys,
>
> While bench bleeding a new master cylinder (P30) I only get flow out of
> the front chamber. No action in the rear chamber. I do get one single bubble
> in the rear chamber each stroke. Is the master cylinder toast? Did I blow
> the rear seal?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom K.
>
>
> --
> Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
> Kingsville, Maryland,
> 1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364953 is a reply to message #364946] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 12:48 |
Christo
Messages: 109
Registered: April 2019
Location: Weymouth, MA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Try pushing harder. When I recently did my 34mm MC from Dave Lenzi, I ran into resistance after depressing the plunger about 3/4". It turns out that the full travel is about twice that, so once I overcame the additional resistance of the second spring everything was fine.
Christo Darsch
GMC Nor'easters
1977 Eleganza II - "The Komet"
3.50 Power Drive, Disc Brakes, Alcoas
Weymouth, MA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364961 is a reply to message #295436] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 16:14 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Such a timely post. I've been restoring my coach for almost 2 years now and intended to take it on its maiden voyage last week. One of the last things I had to do (mechanical wise) was to bleed the brakes after I replaced a blown out brake line. Try as I might, I could not get a stiff pedal and sufficient braking; even with Jim's bleeder. I was faulting a bad MC (even though it's new) or a poor bench bleed. But now I see lots of new tips here I will employ this weekend. Thanks OP. Great thread.
Shawn
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364967 is a reply to message #295436] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 18:52 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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So…couldn’t wait until the weekend. I just checked the distribution valve and the plunger on the end travels about a 1/16 inward from its resting position when I push on it and pulls out about the same if I pull it outward. So total 1/8 travel. That sounds like limited travel to me but I’ve no clue how much it should move.
Any thoughts??
Shawn
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| [GMCnet] Re: Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364969 is a reply to message #364967] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 19:49 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Shawn,
I'm not positive what you're calling the "distribution valve", but if it's
the device where the lines from the master cylinder connect and result in 2
front brake output lines and one rear brake output line being
"distributed", then it's more commonly called the "combination valve" (or,
erroneously "proportioning valve"). In that case you may want to have a
look at this to see whether your "problem" is one or not (remember that
cast iron housing is subject to lots of rust after 40+ years:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3510-deciphering-the-combination-valve.html
Ken H.
On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 7:53 PM Shawn Harris wrote:
> So…couldn’t wait until the weekend. I just checked the distribution valve
> and the plunger on the end travels about a 1/16 inward from its resting
> position when I push on it and pulls out about the same if I pull it
> outward. So total 1/8 travel. That sounds like limited travel to me but
> I’ve no
> clue how much it should move.
>
> Any thoughts??
>
> Shawn
> --
> Shawn Harris
> North Vancouver,
> Canada
> 1977 Palm Beach 403
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #364970 is a reply to message #295436] |
Thu, 24 June 2021 20:18 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Ken. Yes, I was referring to the “proportioning valve”. I was parroting Jim’s vernacular.
At any rate, I’ve seen that article you wrote up. Great stuff but doesn’t refer to the travel of the “plunger”.
I will likely just buy and replace but I would like to get this girl rolling sooner than later.
Summer is here!
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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