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Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM (STRICKEN FOR YEARS WITH POWER LOSS-ASKING FOR HELP)
GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 10:35 Go to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Location: Illinois
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*** First, let me apologize for bringing this to the table. I do not like to bring my problems out to anyone else, preferring to find a solution myself. I do not like to bother anyone else. However, this problem has lasted almost if not 10 years, has restricted any kind of travel and is becoming a money pit. If any of you could come up with a solution I would owe you so much, I can never repay you. So, here is my delema ***


Hello folks. I have a bad problem that has plaqued the GMC for years now and my mechanic and I are running out of ideas. Here is the history...

*** When I bought the GMC, I headed home and experienced a power loss. This occurred miles down the road and started at 65 but as the miles added up, the top speed slowly began to go down. After having the distributor replaced by a GMC dealer ( I did not know at the time but it was NOT the Motorhome type, but it turned out it didn't matter because there was NO VACUUM lines working thanks to the PO cutting them off. Only the brakes had vaccuum. I was able to drive with no problems other than a gas leak at fill up. It was the fuel lines.

***After having the fuel tanks inspected and fuel lines replaced, it experienced a power loss. At first could'nt get above 35mph. It was determined that the carborator had a problem but the 3 rebuilt carbs that were put on, didn't make any improvement. The distributor was changed out with a used one from a GMC motorhome and the used Carb from a GMC motorhome and it seemed to run ok.

On the way home everything seemed ok until I refueled. Upon setting off from the gas station the power loss occurred at 55. We pulled over and tried to figure out what was going on but couldn't find anything. We sat about 30 minutes, then started back on the road. The power loss problem did not come back until we refueled again. After stopping for 30 minutes, we headed home and no problem again????? This would happen all the way home.

***I took it to the mechanic and he made some adjustments to the carborator and the problem seemed to be gone. He had found that the vacuum lines were not connected so he put vacuum back to the distributor.

***Went on a 6 hour trip to some friends place where I stayed a week. I did not, that I can determine, experience any problem on the way to thier cabin. After being there a week, Time came to go home and she started up ok, stopped at a gas station to fill up and as we started down the road, the power loss was back at 55 mph. The problem would be there all the way home but this time my top speed would decrease until I was trying to get as fast as i could go to be able to "coast" over the hills and bridges. I was able to limp home.

***It was determined that the carborator needed to be over hauled so that was replaced with rebuilt one and the fuel pump was replaced and a in line fuel filter was added. The problem seemed to be gone. I did take a couple of trips that seemed to be without a problem but the problem returned on a return trip.
***It was taken back for carborator adjustments again, inspection never turned anything up unusual visually. Timing was checked, plugs, wires, coil.
***Winter was here and the GMC was stored. I tried to start the GMC occasionally since she did IDLE very nicely. Come Spring, the GMC was to be at the mechanics to try to find the problem again. Over the coarse of Winter, The GMC was now becoming hard to start, I suspected The fuel was draining back to the tank and the fuel pump struggled to bring fuel back up to the carborator. It became harder to start until she wouldn't start at all. The problem was fuel and I tried different ways to get fuel to the carborator, nothing worked. I ended up using an external gas can and electric fuel pump to get her to start. With this crazy configuration I drove it to the mechanic again.

***This was going to be the final repair. Everything was checked, wires, distributor, timing. We found cracks in the manifold so that was replaced and the cross overs blocked. Replaced the fuel solenoids and added an electric fuel pump to purge after sitting a long while. The fuel filters were replaced, But the carborator was not responding to any adjustments. There was no warrentee being honored on the carb so I told the mechanic to open it up and inspect it.

What he found would be shocking. The carborator was full of RUST. The rust had infiltrated everything and was determined to be unrepairable. The filter at the carborator was plugged solid with rust. We cut open the fuel filter back by the fuel solenoids and it was CLEAN. So where was the rust coming from? We cut open the fuel pump and it was destroyed by rust. The interior was rusted out.

The fuel pump was replaced, the fuel lines forward the fuel pump replaced and I found a GMC motorhome carb that was rebuilt, had been used and stored on a shelf for a year. I purchased the carborator and it was installed.

We started the GMC up, she idles like a new car. No vibration, smooth as silk. We took it for a test run, got it up to 65 mph but had a hesitation. We found that the right front brake was stuck braking and thought that might be the problem. In the Spring, The brakes were gone through and we ran her for a test again. This time top speed was 45 mph.

We've tried to get the adjustments on the carb but the power loss occurrs at different speeds from 35mph to 45mph. Cant get her above 45mph.

We are fast losing faith and the mechanic is scratching his head. Nothing seems to be helping. Do note that when she idles she runs like a fine tuned machine.

***We have tested for fuel volume and seems to be ok. Our next step will be to run it off of an external tank to see if the problem clears up. But being we were up to 60 before the problem occurred last year, this seems to be over kill. But we have replaced everything I can think of and the problem persists.

We are actually talking about having the carborator rebuilt professionally in the Spring, I don't know if there are any other options.

I am very near taking her to a GMC dealer next year and see if they can figure it out. As Winter is upon us I can only try a couple of simple things before putting her in storge over Winter.

If anyone can shed any, and I mean ANY idea on what is going on???? I would be very grateful.

I appreciate any time or help you can shed on this problem. I am at wits end after all these years.
Thank you for reading
slc
slawrence111 (at) yahoo (dot) com
847 (dash) 662 (dash) 6707
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292164 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 10:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Anonymous   United States
hi Gatsbys' Cruiser,

I think that the rust is coming from the fuel tank(s).

you can try using a clear glass fuel filter that can be disassembled and cleaned and every time is gets clogged, clean it out and go until it clogs again then repeat. this usually works but in some cases the rust is so bad that its not worth the hassle to keep doing this over and over. if it doesnt clear out after 5 tries on cars, I drop the tanks.

so probably best to just drop the tanks and inspect then and if salvageable, clean or have them cleaned.



Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292166 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 11:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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I think that the rust is coming from the fuel tank(s).

THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY.
THERE IS A FUEL FILTER JUST AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVE. WE CUT THAT OPEN AND IT WAS PERFECTLY CLEAN. WHEN WE CUT THE MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP OPEN, THE INSIDE WAS RUSTED OUT. THE SOURCE OF THE RUST HAD TO BE FROM THE MECH FUEL PUMP.
I DID PONDER THIS BUT IF THE RUST SOURCE WAS FROM THE FUEL TANKS OR THE MECH FUEL SOLENOID, THE FILTER SHOULD HAVE SHOWN SOME RUST, BUT IT WAS CLEAN. THE MECH FUEL SOLENOID WAS ALSO REPLACED.
THANKYOU
SLC
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292180 is a reply to message #292166] Tue, 15 December 2015 11:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Senior Member
Have your frame/body pads collapsed, pinching the fuel line(s)?
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292182 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 12:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
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Have your frame/body pads collapsed, pinching the fuel line(s)?

THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY
OTHER THAN ABOVE THE TANKS, THE LINES HAVE BEEN FOLLOWED UP TO THE FRONT OF THE GMC.
A SECOND CONSIDERATION IS.... THE POWER LOSS VARIES... IT WILL HAPPEN AT 35 MPH. TRY TO ADUST, THEN MAY SEE THE POWER LOSS AT 45MPH. ANOTHER WRENCH IN THE WORKS IS IF I PUNCH THE GAS, SHE WILL REV UP NORMALLY TILL IT GET TO ABOUT 30-35MPH, THEN THE POWER LOSS OCCURS. --BUT-- IF I PRESS THE GAS GENTLY AND SLOWLY INCREASE SPEED, I MAY GET TO 40-45 MPH BEFORE THE POWER LOSS HAPPENS.
THE VARIANCE IN SPEED POINTS KIND OF ELIMINATES PINCHED FUEL LINES THOUGH WE ARE CONSIDERING TESTING WITH AN EXTERNAL FUEL TANK.
THANKYOU
SLC
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292187 is a reply to message #292182] Tue, 15 December 2015 12:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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testing with an external tank AND fuel pump will quickly narrow down your problem to either fuel supply system or Engine/carb. Easy and relatively cheap to do.

finding that out makes the whole problem much simpler to figure out.





Pete



Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292188 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 12:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
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Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Stan,

I long ago did what I now recommend to you: Install two electric fuel
pumps (I like Carter 4070's) back near the fuel tanks. Toss the solenoid
selector valve and connect the tanks, through in-line filters, individually
to the two pumps. Wire them so that the dash tank selector actually
selects one of the pumps.

Connect each of the pumps' output to a check valve (McMaster-Carr has good
ones cheap) with those feeding into a tee. Connect the output of the tee
to hard line all the way to the front crossmember where the rubber line is
now. Use R-14 fuel hose only as necessary to connect hard lines and
isolate vibrations; everything else should be good quality coated steel (I
prefer PolyArmour, available from most of the chain parts stores). Remove
the mechanical pump, bypassing its location with steel line, or aircraft
quality SS clad tubing.

You now have complete fuel system redundancy from the gas station to the
carburetor. Merely flipping the dash "tank" selector should enable you to
determine where the problem is if you ever have another one.

Oh yeah, while you're installing the two electric pumps, remove the gas cap
and blow the "socks" off of the fuel pickups in each tank with high volume
compressed air. I repeat, FIRST REMOVE THE GAS CAP.

Good luck. Let us know about next summer's trouble-free trips. :-)

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Tue, Dec 15, 2015 at 11:35 AM, StanC wrote:

> *** First, let me apologize for bringing this to the table. I do not
> like to bring my problems out to anyone else, preferring to find a solution
> myself. I do not like to bother anyone else. However, this problem has
> lasted almost if not 10 years, has restricted any kind of travel and is
> becoming a money pit. If any of you could come up with a solution I
> would owe you so much, I can never repay you. So, here is my delema ***
> ​...
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292190 is a reply to message #292182] Tue, 15 December 2015 13:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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Senior Member
Man you have a weird problem. First off do you have a fuel filter in the carb inlet? If it is there you should not have gotten rust in the carburetor if it could have even gotten past the needle valve. You should make sure the float valve is set properly when you look in the carburetor again. You should install another new fuel filter at the carburetor and a fuel pressure gage at the carburetor inlet that you can observe when the problem occurs that way you will be able to tell if you have a fuel delivery problem or not. The pressure should be around 5 to 7 pounds when you are under power at all times.I presume you know you have good fresh gas in the tanks. Have you made sure the advance weights are not sticking in your replacement distributor?

Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292192 is a reply to message #292190] Tue, 15 December 2015 13:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Location: Illinois
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THANKYOU FOR YOUR REPLY

First off do you have a fuel filter in the carb inlet?

YES, THAT CARBORATOR HAD A FILTER IN THE CARB INLET. THE RUST GOT BY IT AND WENT INTO THE CARB EVERYWHERE THE FUEL WOULD GO. IT WAS IN ALL THE CREVACES AND PORTS.

You should make sure the float valve is set properly when you look in the carburetor again

WE HAD TO OPEN THIS CARBORATOR UP FOR INSPECTION. THE FLOAT WAS SATURATED WITH FUEL AND WAS HEAVY, WAS NOT FLOATING LIKE IT SHOULD. WE REPLACED THE FLOAT AND THE ACCELORATOR PUMP SINCE IT WAS ONLY WORKING PART WAY OF THE STROKE. STILL NOT SURE WHY IT IS NOT RESPONDING TO ADJUSTMENTS.

You should install another new fuel filter at the carburetor and a fuel pressure gage at the carburetor inlet

WE INSTALLED A NEW FILTER AFTER WE HAD THE CARBORATOR OPEN. BUT THE OLD ONE WAS PRISTINE. I'LL BRING UP THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST TO THE MECHANIC. I DON'T HAVE THAT KIND OF EQUIPMENT MYSELF BUT I KNOW HE HAS IT.

I presume you know you have good fresh gas in the tanks

YES, FRESH FUEL. I HAD THOUGHT THAT MAYBE THE ETHANOL HAD SEPARATED AND WE WERE BURNING PURE ALCOHOL BUT WE HAVE RUN IT ENOUGH THAT EVEN THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN BURNT OUT BY NOW.

Have you made sure the advance weights are not sticking in your replacement distributor?

WE HAVE DOUBLE CHECKED THE DISTRIBUTOR, PARTS, SETTINGS, ETC. PROBABLY GONNA CHECK THEM AGAIN IN FRUSTRATION.

THANKYOU
SLC
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292194 is a reply to message #292188] Tue, 15 December 2015 13:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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HI KEN, THANKS FOR THE THOUGHTS.

RIGHT NOW I AM OPEN TO ANYTHING.

WE INSTALLED A SINGLE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP ON THE RESERVE TANK WITH THE INTENTION OF USING IT FOR PRIMING THE VEHICLE. FOR THAT JOB, IT IS NOW EASY TO START HER UP.

I ORIGINALLY SUGGESTED TWO PUMPS BUT SOMEONE SAID IT WOULDN'T WORK... APPEARANTLY IT WASN'T YOU. LOL

ON ONE OF OUR TEST DRIVES, WHEN THE POWER STARTED TO FLOUNDER, LOL I LIKE THAT WORD, IT STARTED TO FLOUNDER, WE HIT THE SWITCH FOR THE ELECTRIC PUMP. IT DIDN'T MATTER, NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL.

THE MECHANIC HAS BEEN IN CONTACT WITH ONE OF OUR SUPPLIERS AND HE SAID HE WAS TOLD TO BLOW THE SOCKS OFF SO THEY ARE ALREADY GONE.

I AM GOING TO COPY ALL THESE COMMENTS AND PRINT THEM FOR THE MECHANIC. I WILL SUGGEST THE DUAL ELEC FUEL PUMP CONFIG. WE ARE PLANING TO DO THE PORTBLE GAS TANK FEED TEST. i THINK WE DID THIS LAST YEAR BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER NOW. WE HAVE DONE SO MUCH TO THIS THING THAT EVERYTHING IS RUNNING TOGETHER.

THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR THOUGHTS
I'LL SEE THE MECH LATER THIS WEEK AND WE WILL HAVE A GOOD TALK. I HAVE TO MOVE THE GMC HOME SOON, I AM RUNNING OUT OF SNOW FREE ROADS.

THANKS AGAIN.
SLC
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292195 is a reply to message #292182] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Senior Member
Have you checked to see if your intake manifold is cracked? Very common
occurance. Symptoms are exactly as you describe yours are. Worth a quick
look down the inlet tract.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403
On Dec 15, 2015 10:25 AM, "StanC" wrote:

> Have your frame/body pads collapsed, pinching the fuel line(s)?
>
> THANK YOU FOR THE REPLY
> OTHER THAN ABOVE THE TANKS, THE LINES HAVE BEEN FOLLOWED UP TO THE FRONT
> OF THE GMC.
> A SECOND CONSIDERATION IS.... THE POWER LOSS VARIES... IT WILL HAPPEN AT
> 35 MPH. TRY TO ADUST, THEN MAY SEE THE POWER LOSS AT 45MPH. ANOTHER WRENCH
> IN THE WORKS IS IF I PUNCH THE GAS, SHE WILL REV UP NORMALLY TILL IT GET
> TO ABOUT 30-35MPH, THEN THE POWER LOSS OCCURS. --BUT-- IF I PRESS THE GAS
> GENTLY AND SLOWLY INCREASE SPEED, I MAY GET TO 40-45 MPH BEFORE THE POWER
> LOSS HAPPENS.
> THE VARIANCE IN SPEED POINTS KIND OF ELIMINATES PINCHED FUEL LINES THOUGH
> WE ARE CONSIDERING TESTING WITH AN EXTERNAL FUEL TANK.
> THANKYOU
> SLC
>
>
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Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292196 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Have you checked to see if your intake manifold is cracked? Very common
occurance. Symptoms are exactly as you describe yours are. Worth a quick
look down the inlet tract.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE

ORIGNALLY WE DID A CHECK DOWN THE THROAT, IT LOOKED GOOD. WHEN WE FINALLY TOOK IT OFF TO DO AN INSPECTION, WE FOUND CRACKS ON BOTH THE TOP AND BOTTOM SURFACES OF THE MANIFOLD. WE DID A SEARCH TO FIND A REPLACEMENT, OUT OF 6, 5 HAD CRACKS IN THEM. WE FOUND A MANIFOLD WITH NO CRACKS AND BLOCKED THE CENTER CROSS PORT.

SYMPTOMS ARE EXACTLY LIKE MINE? I AM PRETTY SURE IT WAS SEALED BACK ON PROPERLY BUT I CAN BRING IT UP WHEN I SEE HIM FRIDAY.

THANK YOU
SLC
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292197 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
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Location: St. Cloud, MN
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Senior Member
I think you all ready have your plan. As much of a pain as it is, get that boat gas tank, and hook it up to your new mechanical fuel pump.

That will cut your hunting down the problem by 50%.

that should very quickly after 50 miles of driving, tell you if your problem is fuel delivery, before or after the pump. If it runs great, at speed, Then your next task is dropping tanks, new fuel lines all around, and go from there. If it still cuts out, then you need to revisit the carb/intake, distributor, ect...

I would wonder though if your mechanic is scratching his head on that carb. the $250 Jim Bounds charges to make sure your carb is 100%, without scratching your head, might be a good investment. I do not work on my own carbs, but i always have success with someone that is confident in their ability to work on carbs and "have done it many times, and it worked great!"






Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292198 is a reply to message #292196] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sammy Williams is currently offline  Sammy Williams   United States
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Timing chain may have enough slack under load to cause a loss in power but
under no load it runs fine. I had a 455 olds custom cruiser that did that
Sammy
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Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292200 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jim Wagner is currently offline  Jim Wagner   United States
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First don't apologize for bringing your problem to us. We all love working on other folks problems. I would install a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it as close to the carb as you can. Mount the gauge on the outside where you can see it while driving. 4-6 psi would be good. Check the pressure when it is running good then see what it is during power loss. This will help you find what is or isn't the problem.
Keep us posted on your findings.

Jim Wagner
Brook Park, oh
76 GMC500
71 Vega355
69 Corvette383


*** First, let me apologize for bringing this to the table. I do not like to bring my problems out to anyone else, preferring to find a solution myself. I do not like to bother anyone else. However, this problem has lasted almost if not 10 years, has restricted any kind of travel and is becoming a money pit. If any of you could come up with a solution I would owe you so much, I can never repay you. So, here is my delema ***
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292201 is a reply to message #292197] Tue, 15 December 2015 14:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
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THANKYOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE.

tell you if your problem is fuel delivery, before or after the pump. If it runs great, at speed
THE TANKS WERE DROPPED AND FUEL LINES CHANGED BEFORE THIS ALL HAPPENED. WE HAVE DONE TESTS TO TRY TO PROVE A LINE IS PINCHED BUT DONT SEEM TO HAVE ANY EVIDENCE TO THAT FACT.
WHEN WE ARE TESTING WITH THE MAIN TANK, WE HAVE CHANGED TO THE RESERVE, WHICH ALSO TURNS ON THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP. THERE IS NO CHANGE IN THE POWER LOSS. SO THIS SHOULD INDICATE THAT EITHER BOTH LINES ARE PINCHED, IF THAT CAN BE SO, OR THE PROBLEM IS ELSE WHERE. WE ARE TALKING ABOUT USING A EXTERNAL GAS TANK AND ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP TO RETEST THE gmc LINES ARE CLEAR.

I AM KEEPING DROPPING THE TANKS AS A LAST RESORT BUT IT IS IN THE PLAN.

make sure your carb is 100%, without scratching your head, might be a good investment.
THE CARB BEFORE THIS ONE AND THIS CARB WERE SUPPOSEDLY REBUILT, AND I AM TOLD BY THE SAME OUTFIT. THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO DO VERY GOOD WORK. I AM CONSIDERING HAVING A PROFESSIONAL UP HERE REBUILD THE CARB, THEY GUARANTEE TO TEST AND BRING IT UP TO STANDARDS. BUT THIS WON'T HAPPEN UNTIL SPRING. IT WILL BE ABOUT 2 WEEKS TO DO THIS REBUILD. MY MECHANIC DOES CARB REBUILDS ROUTINELY, THOUGH HE WON'T BE DOING THIS ONE. HE IS A COMPETENT AND VERY BUSY MECHANIC. BUT HE IS NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT IS SCRATCHING HIS HEAD OVER THIS ONE. REMEMBER, WE'VE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT FOR A FEW YEARS NOW AND HAVE BEEN THROUGH SEVERAL CARBORATORS, ONE BAD BECAUSE THE MECH FUEL PUMP RUSTED INTERNALLY.
THANKYOU
SLC
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292203 is a reply to message #292198] Tue, 15 December 2015 15:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE.

Timing chain may have enough slack under load to cause a loss in power but
under no load it runs fine. I had a 455 olds custom cruiser that did that
I HAVE BEEN CONSIDERING THIS. BUT, WHY WOULD THIS JUST HAPPEN ALL OF A SUDDEN?
THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE ANY SLACK, AT LEAST NOT THAT CAN BE TESTED FROM THE OUTSIDE.
AND YOU ARE RIGHT, WHEN IT STARTS AND RUNS, SHE RUNS SWEET BUT IT HAS THOSE POWER LIMITS. IT VARIES FROM 30 TO 45MPH.... THAT WILL HAVE TO BE LOOKED INTO, I AGREE.
THANKYOU
SLC
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292204 is a reply to message #292200] Tue, 15 December 2015 15:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE

YES, WELL I REALLY DON'T LIKE DRAGGING MY PROBLEMS OUT BUT THIS PROBLEM HAS ME LOST.

I would install a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it as close to the carb as you can.
THIS HAS BEEN BROUGHT UP AND I HAVE NOTED IT. PROBABLY BE DONE WHEN WE DO OR AFTER WE DO THE ETERNAL FUEL SUPPLY TESTL
I MENTIONED THAT I THINK WE DID THIS LAST YEAR AND IT DID THE SAME THING, WHICH WOULD HAVE TAKEN ANY BLAME OFF THE FUEL LINES,
BUT WE ARE GOING TO DO IT AGAIN BECAUSE WE ARE RETRACING OUR STEPS SO WE DON'T MISS ANYTHING. AS I SAID, WE HAVE DONE SO MUCH,
REPLACED SO MUCH AND CHANGED SO MUCH IT IS BECOMEING A BLURR

THANKYOU
SLC
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292205 is a reply to message #292203] Tue, 15 December 2015 15:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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I wouldnt worry about what it COULD be until you have definitively ruled out fuel supply or Engine/carb.

Be methodical


Pete









Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292206 is a reply to message #292162] Tue, 15 December 2015 15:27 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
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Location: Illinois
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE

I wouldnt worry about what it COULD be until you have definitively ruled out fuel supply or Engine/carb.

Be methodical

YES, RIGHT NOW THE CARBORATOR IS IN OUR SITES. I AM PRETTY SURE THAT IT NEED TO BE REBUILT AGAIN. WE BELEIVE THE FUEL SYSTEM IS GOOD BUT ARE GOING TO DO THE EXT FUEL TANK TEST ANYWAY.... WE HAVE DONE TOO MUCH AND GOT NEARLY NO RESULTS FROM EVERYTHING THAT HAS BEEN DONE. I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROJECT THAT HAS TAKEN SO MUCH TIME AND BEEN SO DARN DIFFICLUT TO DIAGNOSE.

THE CARB, WHICH WAS REBUILT A YEAR OR SO AGO, DOES NOT SEEM TO REACT TO ADJUSTMENTS.... DOING WHAT WE CAN BUT IF IT DOES NOT STRAIGHTEN UP IT WILL GO TO THE REBUILDER TO GET BACK TO SPECS.

I STILL THINK IT IS EITHER FUEL OR CARB AND I MYSELF AM LEANING TOWARD THE CARB BUT WE WILL TEST THE FUEL SYSTEM JUST TO VERIFY. IF THE FUEL SYSTEM TESTS GOOD, WE STILLL HAVE TO FIGURE OUT WHY THE CARB IS NOT DOING ITS JOB.

SOMEONE HAS MENTIONED THE TIMING CHAIN, AND I HAVE BROUGHT THAT UP IN SEVERAL DISCUSSIONS. I AM TOLD THE ENGINE IS TIGHT BUT I KNOW IT HAS A LOT OF MILES ON IT AS WELL SO SOME WHAT TO TEST MAY NEED TO BE FOUND....

THANK YOU
SLC
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