| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing Options [message #367173 is a reply to message #367111] |
Tue, 12 October 2021 09:41  |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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I tried using the pressure relief valve to help drain the water heater. It failed and wouldn't hold pressure after 2 times
They are not meant to be used like that.
Not fun to replace.
I drain everything, I pull the anode out of the water heater to drain it ( make sure you depressurize the system first! ) Pump the pink crap through everything and dump it into the drains.
Leave the coach plugged in and the battery charger on.
Also check the antifreeze
I wouldn't mess with the genset, I doubt there's any fuel in the carb unless you have used it recently
But I live in Minnesota and -20 is not uncommon, it's has to be done right
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From: Fred Hudspeth
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 4:20 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Winterizing Options
In preparing for my first winter in southcentral Alaska, I was very thorough
about preparing my motorhome (then a Ford "460" powered Coachmen product) for cold storage. An "old sourdough" who lived nearby was visiting when I was doing my prep. He politely volunteered that my way was an overkill and described his and other veteran residents' practice. I listened but was apprehensive about "their way" and did it my comprehensive way the first winter(i.e., use RFV antifreeze, remove batteries to warm storage, periodic restarts/warmups, etc.). "My way" was a real hassle in that cold. The next winter, I "did it their way" and have done so since. The motorhome I use in summers and leave in Alaska is a '82 GM "454" powered Airstream. It has been there 22 years. In all of that time, there has been no discernible change in compression, makeup oil, fuel consumption, etc. using the "old sourdough's" winterization practice. I also did this with no adverse effects on the GMCMh for about eight years before retiring from Alaska ('was there as a resident over a span of 20 ye
ars).
The practice (about 30 minutes): Use no RV antifreeze. Open all drains and faucets, including water heater (open relief valve at tank to aid draining). Using a wet-dry vacuum cleaner, connect the vacuum port to all faucets and tubing drains individually (removes remaining water from water tubing that did not gravity drain). I use a small 1 BHP wet-dry shop vacuum cleaner for this. Leave all drains open for winter storage. Last, I vacuum the water out of the (1) "P" trap at the galley sink, shower and lavatory (2) at the house water pump/connecting tubing and (3) commode/connecting tubing. I usually get about a gallon of water after the gravity drain. Disconnect motorhome electrical cable from gen set, if connected. Start gen set, disconnect 12VDC power to fuel pump and run gen set until it dies from fuel starvation. Enroute to storage(uncovered, general aviation airport), fill motorhome (and car) fuel tanks, adding Stabil storage fuel stabilizer. At storage, remove cable from the po
sitive post of all batteries. Record voltage for comparison to voltage at time of next start-up. Prepare coach for snow load (i.e., remove radio antenna, stand windshield wipers vertically, etc. to avoid snow glaciation damage during spring thaw).
For start-up, note battery voltage. For wet cell batteries at full charge when the motorhome was stored, the voltage loss over 9-10 months will usually be not more than 0.25 volts (info - for wet cell batteries in good condition and stored at full charge, freezing will not occur until the temp reaches about -78F. The record low in Anchorage is -38F. Most winter spikes do not go below -30F). Connect all battery cables. Start gen set first (leave gen set running to charge batteries while starting motorhome engine). For carbureted engine, pull coil wire from distributor to "motor" engine with starter for 10 seconds (for a little oil circulation). Reconnect coil wire. Remove air cleaner and spray starting fluid into carburetor venturi. Immediately replace air cleaner and start engine. 'Avoids long start time and risk of discharging battery. For fuel injected motorhome engines, start in usual manner; there will be no pre-oiling but unavoidable without disabling engine ignition or fuel d
elivery systems. After starting gen set and motorhome engines, proceed to close all drains and faucets in preparation for filling motorhome water tank. Fill water tank, turn water pump on and check carefully for leaks.
JWID...
Fred Hudspeth
1978 Royale (TZE 368V101335) - Tyler, TX
1982 Airstream Excella (motorhome) - Cooper Landing, Alaska
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Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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