Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Tips/steps to take before removing intake manifold (Tips/steps to take before removing intake manifold)
| [GMCnet] Re: Tips/steps to take before removing intake manifold [message #367882 is a reply to message #367880] |
Wed, 08 December 2021 16:51   |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
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If you do use the "turkey tray" for block-off plates, be sure that you
measure the thickness of the metal. If it is not the same thickness as the
Paterson gasket, my recommendation would be to NOT use it. The block off
plates should be exactly the same thickness as the gasket when it is
compressed by tightening the manifold bolts. I would not recommend
inserting the block-off plate between the manifold and gasket without the
gasket cut away to allow for the plate.
When I install those manifolds, I invert the intake manifold on a clean
work bench, super clean the gasket surfaces with carb cleaner, then spray
the manifold and the mating surface of the gasket with 2 coats of "Hi-tack"
gasket sealer. When the sealer tacks up to the touch, place the gasket
precisely onto the manifold as well as the block-off plate, drop some bolts
through the hold down holes, and leave it alone overnight. I use my cherry
picker to lower the intake manifold onto the engine. Use a bead of sealant
around all the water passages, as well as the end dams on the block. Let
your sealant skin up then carefully lower the manifold onto the block. I
use tapered punches in all 4 corners of the manifold to align it. Then,
place the bolts in the holes and using the torque sequence from the Olds
manual, torque it down. Then, leave it alone overnight to make sure the
sealant cures.
Alternately, if you are using the neoprene end dam seals, religiously
clean the block surfaces before placing those seals in place. Don't use any
goop here. It will cause the seals to squiggle out of place. Do it once, do
it right, and you will have an engine that is oil, vacuum, and water tight,
and block-off plates that stay put for as long as you will need them to.
Get a bit sloppy here, and you will regret it, and have to do it all over.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Wed, Dec 8, 2021, 1:59 PM wrote:
> In terms of the exhaust block-off plates, I like to use the old original
> metal intake gasket/drip tray. I trace the opening on a nice relatively
> clean area and cut two rectangular plates with tin snips. Just being cheap
> but effective.
>
> James
>
> 1976 Birchaven 23 footer rear bed 455
> 1976 “unknown” 26 footer rear bed 455
>
>> On Dec 8, 2021, at 1:22 PM, Carl Stouffer wrote:
>>
>> Take pictures of the current installation. It will help you when you
> go to put all the vacuum lines back in place. Also, label the vacuum lines,
>> trans, advance, PCV. brake, etc. Just get everything as clean as you
> can. Use a shop vac to clean out the lifter valley. I used Dick Paterson's
>> gasket set with the SS block-off plates. It is the proper thickness,
> and I felt that the plates would protect the aluminum manifold from the
> extreme
>> exhaust heat.
>> --
>> Carl Stouffer
>> '75 ex Palm Beach
>> Tucson, AZ.
>> Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive,
> Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American
> Eagles,
>> Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
>> _______________________________________________
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