| [GMCnet] Re: Battery Isolater with a Yandina combiner or in place of [message #364841 is a reply to message #364838] |
Sat, 19 June 2021 12:15   |
 |
ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma:
|
Senior Member |
|
|
20 volts? That suggests to me that somehow the two battery banks are wired in series, not parallel.
I have a yandina as well as the combiner and it works very well.
Larry Davick
1976 Palm Beach
> On Jun 19, 2021, at 9:51 AM, Tom Lins wrote:
>
> I hope I am not going to start a flame session but I have to ask for opinions on this.
>
> First some background:
> When we first bought the current GMC in 2017 when we started home we had several issues
> A dead alternator, a iffy battery (due to age), a battery isolater that was open going to the chassis battery.
> While sitting in a campground I changed the alternator only to discover the isolater was open to the chassis battery.
> I replaced the isolater also.
> About 2 years ago while we had the coach a Sirums, Jeff had to replace the isolater again because it was open to the chassis battery.
> Right now I am reading almost 20 volts on the center post of the isolater and 11.9 on the chassis battery.
>
> My question is can I just eliminate the isolater by putting the combiner in place of it and taking the lead from the alternator and wiring it directly
> to the chassis battery.
> Or am I overlooking something.
>
>
> --
> Tom Lins
> St Augustine, FL
> 77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, Aluminum Radiator Quad-Bag Suspension Solar Panel
> Manuals on DVD
> YOUTUBE Channel: GMC Dealer Training Tapes
> http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
