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[GMCnet] Re: Centering the steering box [message #363588 is a reply to message #363586] Wed, 21 April 2021 11:43 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Nice info Bruce.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 9:40 AM Bruce Hislop wrote:

> Here is Ken Henderson's verbal write-up.. and note at the end he says the
> pitman arm does not need to come off... it only goes on one way!
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6588/steering.pdf
>
> Having done mine and checked it several times, this is how I would doing
> it again from scratch.
>
> If your coach drives straight and no funny wear on the tires, then you can
> assume you have the front wheels aligned right, or close anyway. Take your
> coach out for a quick test drive and determine the steering wheel position
> when the coach is going straight down the road. When you come back home,
> drive the last 10 feet with the steering wheel in the position you had
> noted on your test drive. You now have your front wheels pointing straight
> ahead (just maybe not the steering wheel!)
>
> Open the engine cover and look down at the position of the relay arm and
> idler arm. They should be pointing straight back, parallel with the main
> ladder frame. If not, then the link between the tie-rods out to wheels is
> off of its center point of movement. Use the tie-rod adjustment sleeves to
> get the relay arm and idler arm in the center of their swing (straight
> back, parallel with the chassis frame). Turn the sleeves a little bit on
> each
> side, alternating side to side and in the opposite direction so you do not
> move the front wheel position. You only want to shift the connecting rod to
> the center of its movement by setting the relay arm and idler arm point
> straight back.
>
> Now you have your wheels pointing straight ahead and the relay arm in the
> center of its movement swing.
>
> Next you need to get your steering box at the high point. Pull the
> intermediate shaft universal joint off the input shaft to the steering box.
> Use
> your adjustable drag-link to line up the flat on the input shaft to be
> parallel to the cover plate on steering box as shown in Alex's photos here:
> Turning the drag-line adjustment will make the steering box input shaft
> move.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/steering-box/p54239-photo-2.html
>
> At this point you have your wheels straight ahead and your steering box
> set on high-point. Now you need to get your steering wheel set so it is at
> 12
> o'clock. You need to align the u joint to the input shaft next. Read
> Ken's instructions from his PDF above (I think the drill is actually
> 15/32") If
> you are lucky your steering wheel will be at 12 o'clock. Otherwise you
> will need to follow Alex's and Ken's instructions to reclock the
> intermediate
> steering shaft assembly. The steering wheel should be at 12 o'clock
> position when the steering box is at high-point. Your should not need to
> change
> these adjustments from the steering wheel to the steering box again.
>
> When you have done all that, take it for a test run. If you find the
> steering wheel is a bit off 12 o'clock when going straight, you can use the
> drag
> link to fine adjust it so the box is at high point when you are driving
> down the road.
>
> Photos and more instructions here:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6588-steering-box.html
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.

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