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Re: Centering the steering box [message #363586 is a reply to message #363521] Wed, 21 April 2021 11:39 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma:
Senior Member
Here is Ken Henderson's verbal write-up.. and note at the end he says the pitman arm does not need to come off... it only goes on one way!

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6588/steering.pdf

Having done mine and checked it several times, this is how I would doing it again from scratch.

If your coach drives straight and no funny wear on the tires, then you can assume you have the front wheels aligned right, or close anyway. Take your coach out for a quick test drive and determine the steering wheel position when the coach is going straight down the road. When you come back home, drive the last 10 feet with the steering wheel in the position you had noted on your test drive. You now have your front wheels pointing straight ahead (just maybe not the steering wheel!)

Open the engine cover and look down at the position of the relay arm and idler arm. They should be pointing straight back, parallel with the main ladder frame. If not, then the link between the tie-rods out to wheels is off of its center point of movement. Use the tie-rod adjustment sleeves to get the relay arm and idler arm in the center of their swing (straight back, parallel with the chassis frame). Turn the sleeves a little bit on each side, alternating side to side and in the opposite direction so you do not move the front wheel position. You only want to shift the connecting rod to the center of its movement by setting the relay arm and idler arm point straight back.

Now you have your wheels pointing straight ahead and the relay arm in the center of its movement swing.

Next you need to get your steering box at the high point. Pull the intermediate shaft universal joint off the input shaft to the steering box. Use your adjustable drag-link to line up the flat on the input shaft to be parallel to the cover plate on steering box as shown in Alex's photos here: Turning the drag-line adjustment will make the steering box input shaft move.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/steering-box/p54239-photo-2.html

At this point you have your wheels straight ahead and your steering box set on high-point. Now you need to get your steering wheel set so it is at 12 o'clock. You need to align the u joint to the input shaft next. Read Ken's instructions from his PDF above (I think the drill is actually 15/32") If you are lucky your steering wheel will be at 12 o'clock. Otherwise you will need to follow Alex's and Ken's instructions to reclock the intermediate steering shaft assembly. The steering wheel should be at 12 o'clock position when the steering box is at high-point. Your should not need to change these adjustments from the steering wheel to the steering box again.

When you have done all that, take it for a test run. If you find the steering wheel is a bit off 12 o'clock when going straight, you can use the drag link to fine adjust it so the box is at high point when you are driving down the road.

Photos and more instructions here:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6588-steering-box.html



Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
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