Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Guess what’s coming to Chez Denney
| [GMCnet] Re: Guess what’s coming to Chez Denney [message #363009 is a reply to message #362998] |
Wed, 24 March 2021 05:44   |
GMC.LES
Messages: 505
Registered: April 2014
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Rick,
I’m extremely curious to know more about your failed geothermal system. I’m in the planning/designing stages for a well-sourced (open loop) system here at home, and have been researching the subject. Knowing more about your system might help me avoid a few issues with mine.
From your description, it sounds as though your well would run out of water. This is typically caused by no return line back to the source. A simple solution would be to return the water used by the geothermal back into the same well. By doing so, the well never runs dry, and the water table is usually large enough that the water temp is barely affected. This is becoming a common practice in some areas, but most installers prefer closed-loop due to higher profits and lower maintenance for the owner.
If you are willing to discuss this in more detail, We can continue here, take it to email, or even a phone call.
Just let me know.
Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 7:31 PM, Richard Denney wrote:
>
> Randy—the radiant heat company (Radiantec out of Vermont) recommended a
> small boiler instead of a water heater for this application. It’s actually
> much smaller that a water heater that would be big enough. My target is 55
> degrees in the winter. I can use portable electric space heaters to
> spot-warm a workspace if I’m out there.
>
> My house was original built for hearing using a water-sourced geothermal
> heat pump, but the well couldn’t deliver enough water, even with a
> 3500-gallon holding tank. The house is forced-air now, and it’s not
> optimal.
>
> Ken B—the radiant floor system is actually quite cheap if installed during
> construction. For 2400 square feet of heated floor, the system is a little
> over $6000 including the boiler. The barn has no plumbing, so the system
> will be filled with antifreeze and operated closed. The only gas I have is
> propane—too expensive—not doing that at all. The foundation contractor will
> install 2” of insulated panels below the slab.
>
> When I enclose the attic space, a minisplit is probably how I’ll go. That
> comes later.
>
> Rick “might have to drive two states over to find a Menards” Denney
>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 5:46 PM Randy Van Winkle wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> I used 3 of these 200W Bay Lights in the shop area (roughly 1300 sq ft)
>> where I wanted more light. Still have to use some task lighting under the
>> coach because of shadows. I used 2 of the larger 250W lights in the Cold
>> Storage (48 x 48) which gives plenty of light in there - I'm not doing any
>> long term work in that area.
>>
>> I've had them in about 6 months and they work great! I have switches at
>> every walk-thru door. Lots of wire but worth doing in my opinion.
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9HC5SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>>
>> I was curious about how you were going to heat water. Based on your last
>> post, sounds like you may be using an electric boiler? I'm using a hot
>> water heater and it has been working great - got me through the polar
>> vortex with temps below freezing for a week and well below zero during 2 or
>> 3
>> nights. At that time, I was seeing about keeping the rooms at 70 degrees
>> with just the floor and it maintained that temp while only cycling 2 or 3
>> times during the real cold part. I have decided to have the floor run at
>> about 60 degrees which is OK for working in the shop and use the mini-splits
>> to raise the temps in the break room - unfortunately, I probably will
>> spend most of my time there hoping the work gets done. Next winter I will
>> experiment with this more - maybe even keeping the floor down at 50
>> degrees and see how the mini-splits do pulling up the heat. I really only
>> need the
>> higher heat when I'm out there in the barn and can't see paying for the
>> heat other times. I have looked into air-to-water heat pumps to heat the
>> water which is an excellent way to go. Unfortunately, the US is way
>> behind Asia and Europe with this technology and use so prices are fairly
>> steep.
>> I got my mini-splits at Menards and installed them myself so that did not
>> cost much and will provide cooling in the summer.
>>
>> Better than that would be geo-thermal with a heat pump to exchange heat
>> into the water. Probably would be the most efficient approach. I have a
>> geo-thermal system at my current home with heat and air through regular
>> air ducts. Quite efficient but the barn, heating about the same square
>> footage and more volume because of the high ceilings cost slightly less
>> than my house.
>>
>> Enough rambling!
>> --
>> Randy & Margie
>> '77 Eleganza II '403'
>> Battlefield, MO
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> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
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