M.,

I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for the
striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on is
not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine, which
was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM one
from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local fabrication
project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door facing
allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a Dremel
tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then the
other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate. As
I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement on
your new one.

HTH,

Ken H.


On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the pin.
> If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate and
> they are different that would explain why old plate works and new plate
> doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard holes
> and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction I
> will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the door
> may
> hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard holes
> and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
>
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