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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary? [message #335150 is a reply to message #335122] |
Sun, 15 July 2018 00:22 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
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Brian K wrote on Sat, 14 July 2018 12:07JohnL455 wrote on Sat, 14 July 2018 07:36The boost solenoid is out of circuit path during normal cranking. It simply provides a binding post for the 2 engine battery cables to join and continue. You cleaned "most" of your connections. Did you clean them with something like Caig D5? You did not clean all of them and resistance in series is additive. You need to also load test your engine battery. I believe you have multiple problems contributing. Is your hot starting a no starter engagement or slow labored cranking. You don't actually clarify. My 455 cranks faster than any GM car I have ever owned under all conditions and with a old starter.
John, I went through this in detail in my earlier post (see the first post here for a link), so I didn't want to repeat all of that again (ad nauseam and bore people who had already read it). In short, the problem I was having was at took a long trip from Seattle to Los Angeles. When I drove a long stretch 2 to 4 hours, and stopped at either a rest stop, gas, or Walmart, when I got back, I got nothing when I turned the ignition key (no cranking, no clicking, no sound). I had over 12.5 in battery power, but nothing. Everything else worked. I managed to get it started twice (once with a jump, the second time by me taking off the cables from the chassis battery). When I reached a destination, and plugged in or hooked up my battery tender, it would start without a problem (hot or cold).
When I was in LA, I went to Pep Boys and bought some battery cleaner and some protectant. I cleaned all of the upper connections (in the front compartments). I did load test the battery. I charged it to full, and then cranked it with a meter. It held at about 12.7 after cranking, and didn't drop below 10 that I could tell when I cranked.
OK my previous posting was a result of my misunderstanding of your problem.
Now Simply put, when it fails the solenoid fails to operate. There is no noise, no clicking, no nothing.
So now we need to determine if this failure to operate is an electrical or mechanical problem. My approach to this would be to get about 6 or 8 feet of 14 gauge or larger wire and connect one end to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. That terminal should already have a 12 gauge purple wire on it. I would run that new wire up to the area near the isolator and boost relay BUT DO NOT CONNECT IT to anything. Insulate the open end of the wire with anything like tape or a wire nut to keep it from accidentally shorting to something.
Now the next time it fails do one of two things.
1. Attach a voltmeter plus side to the wire you ran and the negative side to the aluminum plate that the boost relay and isolator are mounted on. Try to start it and read the voltage. If you have 12 volts when attempting to crank, then you have a starter bendix mechanical, or solenoid mechanical, or solenoid electrical problem.
If there is no voltage then you have an electrical problem which is usually Neutral Safety Switch or ignition switch. This could be either electrical problem or mechanical adjustment of either one. You will have to get in there with a meter or a test light to figure which one is the problem.
2. The second way to test this is to take the open end of the new wire that you just ran and connect (touch) it to +12 volts. +12 volts is available several places right around the boost solenoid including the big nut terminal that is labeled vehicle positive. Connecting it will supply +12 to the solenoid and the vehicle should immediately crank no matter where the ignition key is positioned. That will get you going again and you can shoot the problem later if desired. If it cranks it also tells you, like item one above, that you have an electrical problem in the NSS or Ignition switch area.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Fri, 13 July 2018 15:59
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Rob on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:17
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:28
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:50
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Kosier on Fri, 13 July 2018 17:43
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Fri, 13 July 2018 17:14
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Anonymous on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:39
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: jimk on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:52
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Anonymous on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:34
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: [GMCnet] Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Kosier on Fri, 13 July 2018 16:45
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Fri, 13 July 2018 17:08
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: GMC2000 on Fri, 13 July 2018 22:48
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: JohnS on Sat, 14 July 2018 08:59
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Sat, 14 July 2018 12:07
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: rvanwin on Sat, 14 July 2018 19:42
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Sat, 14 July 2018 11:58
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Re: Is the Boost Solenoid Necessary?
By: Brian K on Sun, 15 July 2018 00:45
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