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| Re: [GMCnet] The transmission follies [message #317778 is a reply to message #317770] |
Thu, 18 May 2017 20:33   |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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Somebody, probably me, should have told you to NOT install that upper,
inner final drive bolt. I don't know anyone who does, including,
apparently, the factory during later production. I've got a couple of
wrenches torch-modified to REMOVE them -- NOT install them.
"The rear support holes miss the transmission holes by a bolt width to the
side." Now that one baffles me!!! If you're saying the rear mounting
"plate" does not match the 3 rear-most holes in the
transmission/bellhousing, the SOMETHING is WRONG. Both of those are
precision-made parts common to all TH-425's. Unless someone has enlarged a
hole, or something, they've GOT to fit. And without all 3 of those 7/16"
bolts secured, you shouldn't drive the coach, IMHO.
Normally, with the rear motor mount lower bolts (inside the crossmember)
loosened, NOT removed, the mounting plate should pivot to the rear enough
to allow transmission installation. The right lower of the plate's 3 bolts
should then be easy to align and install. The rear bolt on my lifting
device, if modified to act as a guide pin (the one I gave you is), should
then be pretty easy to align with the top left hole (raising/lowering the
rear of the transmission will be necessary). The upper right bolt should
then "drop" in place. Tighten both the right bolts, remove the lifting
device, and install the upper left bolt. NO opportunity for any
misalignment of an unmodified rear motor mount. Don't forget to re-tighten
the lower motor mount bolts.
Ken H.
On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 4:24 PM, Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Today I'm going back through the install replacing all the bolts with new
> #8 hardware. And putting a bolt in the upper inner hole in the final drive.
> Which cost me $25 at AutoZone for a set of three half moon wrenches which
> neither Advance nor O'Rielly's stock. And the NAPA guy was out of stock.
> Hence the gouge price, I suppose. Anyhow, it's bolted up tight with a
> touch of blue LocTite on the fasteners. The rear support holes miss the
> transmission holes by a bolt width to the side. I'll loosen the front
> mount, line everything up and snug the fasteners, and then lock down the
> front
> mount and rear support bar.
> A flush of the tank in the recored radiator was clean. I'll work out
> the cooling lines to it and the new outboard cooler. Manny recommended
> simply
> buying prefab brake lines and bending them to fit, using unions to join
> them in lieu of flareing new tubing. All cooling plumbing will be hardline.
> I now have for sale two coolers with fans mounted, one DeRale and one
> NoName, a bill and a quarter takes them both. One's a plate, the other
> finned. There were some fine metal particles in the fluid and the bottom
> of the pan, consequently these two coolers should be carefully flushed
> before use.
> There's a few days of removing numerous rubber lines and fittings,
> cleaning things up, and a few endless wires to trace and either reconnect or
> delete, and it will be on the road. I've even ordered ten bux of vinyl
> name letters to stick under the toll windows.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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