Re: How to disconnect my Norcold refrigerator from A/C 120v [message #317452 is a reply to message #317433] |
Fri, 12 May 2017 12:15 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
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Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 12 May 2017 09:20Aham,
What I am suggesting is that GMT&B original design was flawed. This is why they added (cobbled) the outside venting of the reefer for hot climates (but neglected to order the closing off of the original internal venting allowing communication between). They undoubtedly got both complaints about the charge rate and the warranty for the reefer being killed by the swing motor failure before the started installing absorption units. There were undoubtedly a few engineers hustling to get this all in a row. In real terms, the development time for the coach part was very short and did not allow for serious validation. - Says the guy who did vehicle validation. - This is not the first time and sure was not the last. I can provide many other anecdotal examples if you provide the beer.
But, after my own personal development, the only way to get serious on a decent house bank (more than a single Gp.29) is to relocate the converter. The possibility of successfully installing the required copper has a very low probability.
Matt
Someday I would like to buy you a beer and hear some of that history.
I understand about the problems with the electric fridge. The best way for it to work is to vent into the living space, and don't let the living space get hot. Venting it to the outside means even when the roof AC is running, the fridge has to push heat into the higher outside environment. The bottom line is the hotter the air around it, the more power it takes to run it, the faster the battery bank goes down when on battery power, and the faster the compressor wears out.
Basically, if you don't stay plugged into shore power, and don't want to deal with charging a battery every day (two days tops), you need an absorption (propane) fridge.
[Updated on: Fri, 12 May 2017 12:45] Report message to a moderator
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