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Re: [GMCnet] ride height adjustment [message #30622 is a reply to message #30614] Tue, 16 December 2008 19:22 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
GMCWiperMan is currently offline  GMCWiperMan   United States
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma:
Senior Member
Using a level on the front axles makes all kinds of sense if you
remember that any CV or U-joint is wasting energy in any position except
"straight through" (input and output shafts aligned). So for maximum
efficiency, minimum wear, least torque steer, and minimum noise, the
axles should be level. When moving, the CV joint will continually
change, so the best way we can hope to achieve the minimum average
misalignment is to set them level at rest. I suspect that's how the OEM
spec ride height was set.

If the tire size has been changed from OEM, the ride height needs to be
changed to compensate. Claude Brousson has a table of the adjustments
in the paper I linked to earlier. If one uses the "level axles"
procedure, front tire size is eliminated from the equation; the torsion
bars must not be used to adjust the ride height away from "level
axles". That leaves only the rear ride height to be changed to
compensate for the tire change. Bob Drewes' straight edge across the
spindles and Zerk fittings is the quickest, easiest way to set that --
and it doesn't require a calculator. :-)

Now if you've got itsy bitsy tires on the front and Tonka Toy tires on
the rear, or vice-versa, start calculating. Either way, it will
probably drive like a soap box derby car.

Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
'76 X-Birchaven

mills wrote:

> If the Level method results in the measured front height different than
> the "measure the slot in the frame" height do you compensate on the rear
> height or put it at factory height and enjoy the extra caster (assuming
> the front was higher).
>
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