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Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295484 is a reply to message #295483] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 12:33 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
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Listen to Colonel Ken on the all disc system. His simple modification to
the original distribution valve works very well. I have done it his way
many times and prefer it to using the new all brass replacement valves. If
you try to loosen the brake lines connecting the valve, I guarantee that
you will twist off a couple of the lines and round off the fittings as well.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Feb 13, 2016 10:25 AM, "Ken Henderson" wrote:
> IF you have all disc brakes, you can easily eliminate the "distribution
> valve" (metering valve) and save your combination valve. Look on
> GMCMHPhotos under "kenhenders" for "Deciphering the Combination Valve".
>
> Ken H.
> On Feb 13, 2016 12:05 PM, "James Hupy" wrote:
>
>> A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
>> 1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes
> both
>> resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
>> fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
>> the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
>> 2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
>> attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
>> wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
>> looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
>> manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
>> Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
>> system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if
> it
>> will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
>> disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
>> proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
>> bunch of time, and failed.
>> 3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that
> is
>> the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
>> and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
>> seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
>> cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
>> cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the
> bleeder
>> screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
>> VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
>> THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
>> SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
>> work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
>> finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
>> depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
>> talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address
> in
>> on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, OR
>> 78 GMC Royale 403
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie
> wrote:
>>
>>> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever
>> visit
>>> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the
>> bleed
>>> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
>>> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
>>> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
>>> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
>>> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting
> into
>>> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too,
>> but
>>> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>>>
>>> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding
> works
>>> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>> --
>>> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
>>> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control
>> Arms
>>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>>
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