Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101
| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding 101 [message #295483 is a reply to message #295479] |
Sat, 13 February 2016 12:24   |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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IF you have all disc brakes, you can easily eliminate the "distribution
valve" (metering valve) and save your combination valve. Look on
GMCMHPhotos under "kenhenders" for "Deciphering the Combination Valve".
Ken H.
On Feb 13, 2016 12:05 PM, "James Hupy" wrote:
> A bit of clarification on the use of a pressure bleeder.
> 1. This applies to a bleeder like the one I produce that pressurizes both
> resevoirs with the same amount of pressure. When the top is securely
> fastened, pressure throughout the system is equal to the gage reading on
> the pump tank. Somewhere between 10 and 15 psi is sufficient.
> 2. Verify that the distribution valve plunger is depressed before any
> attempt is made to open any bleeder. It is located in the drivers side
> wheel well, and the plunger valve is towards the front of the coach. It
> looks like a nail head sticking out of the end of the valve. The shop
> manual shows a tool made specifically for holding the valve depressed.
> Many, Many, of these valves are stuck due to rust and grunge in the brake
> system. If yours is stuck, you might try TAPPING LIGHTLY on it to see if it
> will free up. If it does not, replace the distribution valve, or
> disassemble the valve in the false hope that it can be freed up. Then,
> proceed with replacing the valve after you have made a big mess, wasted a
> bunch of time, and failed.
> 3. Finally, if the valve does work, start with the wheel cylinder that is
> the greatest distance from the master cylinder, loosen the bleeder screw
> and let the fluid flow into the bleeder catch bottle until no bubbles are
> seen in the stream. Close the bleeder screw and go to the next wheel
> cylinder and repeat. Because there is internal pressure in the wheel
> cylinder, even if you do get some leakage around the threads of the bleeder
> screw, you will not suck any air back into the system. IF YOU ARE USING A
> VACUUM BLEEDER INSTEAD OF A PRESSURE BLEEDER, SOME AIR CAN BE SUCKED INTO
> THE SYSTEM AROUND THE BLEED SCREWS. THAT IS WHERE YOU MIGHT USE A BIT OF
> SILICONE GREASE OR TEFLON TAPE ON THE BLEED SCREWS. Be very clean in your
> work. Double check that you have no fluid leaks anywhere. A clean dry
> finger works best here. Remember, your very life and the lives of others
> depends upon YOU doing a good job here. If in doubt, call me and I will
> talk you through the process. My phone number as well as my web address in
> on the information sheet that came with my bleeder kit.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 4:38 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> Please, if you live some that has any corrosion issues or might ever
> visit
>> someplace that has corrosion as a remote possibility, either wrap the
> bleed
>> screws with teflon tape or coat them with a teflon filled pipe thread
>> sealant. If the rubber bleeder caps are missing or old, replace them.
>> If you do this, you will find that the next time you need to bleed the
>> brake system, you can actually loosen and use the bleeders.
>> Sealing the bleeder threads also keeps the brake fluid from getting into
>> the threads and helping them corrode. The pipe sealant will work too,
> but
>> teflon tape works better (it just wasn't my idea).
>>
>> If you are not working with an old iron reservoir, vacuum bleeding works
>> even better with the bleeder threads sealed.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
>> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control
> Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
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