Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Disc brake project still in failure mode
| Re: [GMCnet] Disc brake project still in failure mode [message #281976 is a reply to message #281961] |
Mon, 13 July 2015 00:29   |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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If your caliper is mountes ar 3-9 o clock, you need to tilt it so the
bleder valve will be at 12 oclock.
Look at location of front caliper .
On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 6:38 PM, Wally Anderson
wrote:
> Neil Fonville wrote on Sun, 12 July 2015 19:19
>> I'm back to working on my brake project and just not getting it done.
> Still have soft pedal and it's takes way too much distance to stop. It's
>> far worse from where is started with 2 Disc and 4 Drums that were not
> working good.
>>
>> Here is rehash of what steps I have taken and maybe someone can help get
> me back on track. I'm still amazed I can't find a mechanic/shop in the
>> Dallas area that could help me with my projects.
>>
>> First I installed the Manny rear disc brake kit. Install was straight
> forward.
>> Bleed the system with the standard 2 man pump and release fluid method.
> Never felt right and the vehicle was not even remotely drivable.
>> Replaced proportion valve with Disc/Disc model.
>> Removed OEM MC and replaced MC with new one from O'rilly. Used the P30
> (PN NMC1668).
>> Did not bench bleed. Bleed with 2 man pump and release fluid. Still
> pedal too soft and not drivable. Removed MC and put on bench and found
>> front chamber not pushing fluid.
>> Replaced with another new MC from O'rilly same part number. Pedal
> pumped up tighter but it leaked between the fluid reservoir and cast metal
>> piston. Still not drivable.
>> Replaced MC with new one from Autozone (PN NM1641 ). Purchased the Hupy
> bleeder. Bleed according to his directions which is RR moving to LF.
>> Removed lots of air and pumped about 1/2 gallon of fluid through the
> system. Still not drivable, pedal too soft and vehicle does not stop.
> From 30
>> to zero takes about 1/4 mile.
>>
>> So how do I go about troubleshooting the individual components? How do
> I test hydraulic pressure?
>>
>> I'm hoping for someone to give me a systematic approach to resolve this
> and get this working.
>>
>> Yes, I have spoke with Manny and I really don't think any of the
> calipers are defective.
>>
>> Thanks Neil Fonville
>> 1975 GMC II
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
> Neil, I feel for ya. I went through gyrations getting all the air out of P
> master cylinders and the rest of the system after air got pushed in. Went
> as far as buying a 1992 P Models service manual to get GM's method of
> bench bleeding. Short version is start with the front of the master slightly
> down then when the air seems out tilt the front slightly up and go and it
> again. When the air is finally out the pedal won't be "soft". Here is a scan
> of the manual page.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/p-30-master-cylinder-disassembled/p58428-1992-p-model-master.html
> Here is the contraption I made to tilt the darn things while bench
> bleeding.
>
> http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/2015/06/p-30-master-cylinder-bench-bleed-and.html
> I thought the first master was bad but it wasn't. I did take it apart to
> see after the second acted exactly the same and couldn't find anything
> wrong,
> Actually its built like a hydraulic cylinder with orings and teflon backup
> rings, no ports that a cup would get torn on and the valves are spring
> loaded closed until the piston is in the return position and tilts them
> open.
> HTH
> --
> Wally Anderson
> 1975 Glenbrook
> Megasquirt 455 port injection science project
> Omaha Nebraska
> Greater Midwest Classics
> GMCES
> http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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