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Re: [GMCnet] Disc brake project still in failure mode [message #281961 is a reply to message #281955] Sun, 12 July 2015 20:38 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
wally is currently offline  wally   United States
Messages: 643
Registered: August 2004
Location: Omaha Nebraska
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Senior Member
Neil Fonville wrote on Sun, 12 July 2015 19:19
I'm back to working on my brake project and just not getting it done. Still have soft pedal and it's takes way too much distance to stop. It's far worse from where is started with 2 Disc and 4 Drums that were not working good.

Here is rehash of what steps I have taken and maybe someone can help get me back on track. I'm still amazed I can't find a mechanic/shop in the Dallas area that could help me with my projects.

First I installed the Manny rear disc brake kit. Install was straight forward.
Bleed the system with the standard 2 man pump and release fluid method. Never felt right and the vehicle was not even remotely drivable.
Replaced proportion valve with Disc/Disc model.
Removed OEM MC and replaced MC with new one from O'rilly. Used the P30 (PN NMC1668).
Did not bench bleed. Bleed with 2 man pump and release fluid. Still pedal too soft and not drivable. Removed MC and put on bench and found front chamber not pushing fluid.
Replaced with another new MC from O'rilly same part number. Pedal pumped up tighter but it leaked between the fluid reservoir and cast metal piston. Still not drivable.
Replaced MC with new one from Autozone (PN NM1641 ). Purchased the Hupy bleeder. Bleed according to his directions which is RR moving to LF. Removed lots of air and pumped about 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system. Still not drivable, pedal too soft and vehicle does not stop. From 30 to zero takes about 1/4 mile.

So how do I go about troubleshooting the individual components? How do I test hydraulic pressure?

I'm hoping for someone to give me a systematic approach to resolve this and get this working.

Yes, I have spoke with Manny and I really don't think any of the calipers are defective.

Thanks Neil Fonville
1975 GMC II




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Neil, I feel for ya. I went through gyrations getting all the air out of P master cylinders and the rest of the system after air got pushed in. Went as far as buying a 1992 P Models service manual to get GM's method of bench bleeding. Short version is plug both ports and start with the front of the master slightly down then when the air seems out tilt the front slightly up and go and it again. When the air is finally out the pedal won't be "soft". Here is a scan of the manual page.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/p-30-master-cylinder-disassembled/p58428-1992-p-model-master.html
Here is the contraption I made to tilt the darn things while bench bleeding.
http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/2015/06/p-30-master-cylinder-bench-bleed-and.html
I thought the first master was bad but it wasn't. I did take it apart to see after the second acted exactly the same and couldn't find anything wrong, Actually its built like a hydraulic cylinder with orings and teflon backup rings, no ports that a cup would get torn on and the valves are spring loaded closed until the piston is in the return position and tilts them open.
HTH


Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook

[Updated on: Sun, 12 July 2015 20:47]

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