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Re: [GMCnet] Axle, Bearing, steering??? [message #248672 is a reply to message #248630] Mon, 28 April 2014 13:00 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma:
Senior Member
Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 28 April 2014 08:20

David,

Like Ken B., I'm betting the wheel bearing is gone, probably taking the
knuckle and/or hub with it: Call Dave Lenzi for a replacement already
assembled.

The steering lockup sounds like one I had several years ago. Cleaning the
CV joint and relubing it with Valvoline Synpower with MSO2 (ONLY) cured the
problem permanently.

As Ken B. suggested, you'll probably find at least 1/2 of the Toronado
axles unuseable. My advice, particularly with your inventory, is to be
frank with every parts store you can reach: "I MUST have the OEM style
joints. Order all your warehouse has in stock and I'll take every correct
one you receive." And to it, 'cause eventually you'll need them all -- IF
you get ANY.

To swap the axle shafts you'll have to remove the outer CV boot and release
the Circlip holding the CV on the shaft. But DON'T remove the inner CV;
just remove the small band clamp. Stand the shaft+inner CV assembly on the
shaft end, then lift and gently drop it a couple of times. The cap sealing
the inner end of the CV will be knocked off by the upper end of the shaft.
Now you can reach the Circlip holding the CV. Reassembly of both ends is
basically a matter of sliding it all back together. In your on-the-road
situation, you probably can't be choosey about the clamps you use, but when
you get home, you'll probably find your best option is to order 1/4"
Band-Itmaterial in a 25' roll, and ear-type buckles, from
McMaster-Carr. Double
wrap clamps from that material are the only clamps I consider worth the
effort to install. It's not cheap (I just got a 25' roll for $38+S&H --
about what I paid for a 100' roll a few years back), but still cheaper than
the pre-made ones from NAPA. For P/N's and other info, take a look at:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3120-replacing-a-cv-joint-boot.html

Whatever clamp you use on that outer CV boot, make sure the boot and the CV
are perfectly clean of grease where the mate, else the boot will slide
right back off.

Good luck. I don't envy you having to handle this on the road.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com




The master has spoken. Listen to Ken H.

All I have ever done is watch other people do this at Bean Station and Hamilton. When mine got repacked and the boots replaced, Blaine Merrell did the actual work while I watched.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
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