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Re: [GMCnet] Axle, Bearing, steering??? [message #248630 is a reply to message #248603] Mon, 28 April 2014 08:20 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
Senior Member
David,

Like Ken B., I'm betting the wheel bearing is gone, probably taking the
knuckle and/or hub with it: Call Dave Lenzi for a replacement already
assembled.

The steering lockup sounds like one I had several years ago. Cleaning the
CV joint and relubing it with Valvoline Synpower with MSO2 (ONLY) cured the
problem permanently.

As Ken B. suggested, you'll probably find at least 1/2 of the Toronado
axles unuseable. My advice, particularly with your inventory, is to be
frank with every parts store you can reach: "I MUST have the OEM style
joints. Order all your warehouse has in stock and I'll take every correct
one you receive." And to it, 'cause eventually you'll need them all -- IF
you get ANY.

To swap the axle shafts you'll have to remove the outer CV boot and release
the Circlip holding the CV on the shaft. But DON'T remove the inner CV;
just remove the small band clamp. Stand the shaft+inner CV assembly on the
shaft end, then lift and gently drop it a couple of times. The cap sealing
the inner end of the CV will be knocked off by the upper end of the shaft.
Now you can reach the Circlip holding the CV. Reassembly of both ends is
basically a matter of sliding it all back together. In your on-the-road
situation, you probably can't be choosey about the clamps you use, but when
you get home, you'll probably find your best option is to order 1/4"
Band-Itmaterial in a 25' roll, and ear-type buckles, from
McMaster-Carr. Double
wrap clamps from that material are the only clamps I consider worth the
effort to install. It's not cheap (I just got a 25' roll for $38+S&H --
about what I paid for a 100' roll a few years back), but still cheaper than
the pre-made ones from NAPA. For P/N's and other info, take a look at:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3120-replacing-a-cv-joint-boot.html

Whatever clamp you use on that outer CV boot, make sure the boot and the CV
are perfectly clean of grease where the mate, else the boot will slide
right back off.

Good luck. I don't envy you having to handle this on the road.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com


On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 1:24 AM, David Gourdine wrote:

>
>
> I am bringing a coach back now and it's been he'll so far. Among a list of
> issues when I picked the coach up was the axle shaft bolts were loose on
> both sides. I torqued them back down to 75ftlbs and inspected the boots.
> I thought they both looked good. As soon as I drove it though the
> steering would lock up. I could turn it back the other way and steer
> through it with a little affort but driving if I slowly turned the wheel it
> wouldn't let me go further. At my first 50 mile safety check the front
> pass hub was super hot. I got under and the boot looked ok till I saw that
> it was separated and there was grease on the inner wheel. I thought
> originally the the steering shaft had a bad u-joint. Now I wonder if a
> bad axle would mimick this behavior? Could a bad bearing cause the axle
> to heat up and melt the boot? Could it be that I have 3 separate issues?
> Lack of sleep and exhaustion are taking a toll on my critical thinking
> right now. I'm in Beaux Bridge and there is a Napa not t
> o far so I am going to limp it over and crash till they open up. I have
> my interchange with me but my manuals were left in another basket case in Jennings
> La so I'm not sure what tools I need to change out the axle. I remember
> reading that I can use a toronado axle but have remove the c-v joint and
> use my shaft? Any input would be helpful.
> Thanx.david
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach

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