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Re: Road Wonder [message #110776 is a reply to message #110767] Tue, 04 January 2011 10:39 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
shawnee is currently offline  shawnee   United States
Messages: 422
Registered: February 2004
Location: NC
Karma:
Senior Member
RF_Burns wrote on Tue, 04 January 2011 09:08

I see I did a really lousy job at typing my first post, so here is what I've done so far, with a few things I missed the first time.

So far: (and not in order)
- New Michelin LTX tires on Eagle wheels
- steering box rebuilt twice, once from NAPA, Second time from Racemate (a recommended rebuilder on bdub's site)
- new tie road ends
- new front stabilizer bar end links
- new Ferguson control arm bushings
- new adjustable drag link
- New steering intermediate shaft
- New relay arm and idler arm twice
---- First time from Cinnibar
---- Second units from Dave Lenzi (Cinnibar's are terrible)
- New steering column bearing and adapter
- new rear bogie arms pins and bushings
- new rear bogie greasers to keep them well lubricated
- new KYB shocks front and rear
- front end alignment 3 times
--- Once after safety check when new to me, tie rod ends had been replaced
--- Once after finding forum, and new Ferguson bushing, tried max caster and suggested settings
--- once more after replacing idler arms with Dave Lenzi units (this was after 6 wheel alignment at Cinnibar)
- 6 wheel alignment and height adjustment (Cinnibar)
- True Track system added
- Rear bearings checked and repacked.
- new steering damper
- added air bag isolators (then used them once to set the rear height at a fixed setting, no difference felt)

Its much better than when I bought it, but I would not say its anywhere near a one-hand steer. A number of of the steering parts were required for the initial Safety Check when I bought it.

Everything has made it maginally better. the most improvement was seen when I replaced the Cinnibar relay and Idler arms with Dave Lenzi units, and the steering box rebuild from Racemate.

I can stand outside and reach inside to slightly move the steering wheel and the front wheels move with little play in the steering.

I should say that as an ex-farm boy I grew up driving machinery and trucks with very loose steering. Dad also had a Courier business and repaired vehicles only when they broke with the minimum cost (ie shocks were never replaced, cheapest tires never balanced and he aligned the front ends to get max. miles from the tires, not for best steering!) So I have lots of experience getting gnarly old vehicles down the road at maximum speed.

It reminds me of driving our old 1 ton Ford chassis cab overloaded with cattle, but one cow short to pack the cattle tight so now they can move around a bit and shift the load.... Ok that was worse but you get the idea.

My vehicles (even my company ones) get the royal treatment.

Still feels like the back could be where my problem is, but maybe not, not much left to change... I've even changed the steering wheel! ..lol

I'm thinking of installing a couple video cameras pointed at the back wheels with a laser pointed at the wheel so I can see how much movement there is back there.

None of the tires look like they are being scuffed from bad alignment, just a tad of feathering on the fronts after about 10k miles so far.

Keep the ideas coming!




Bruce,

One thing I found out several years ago when I had someone replace the steering box is to check the clamps on top of the box and the top toward the steering wheel. These must be tightened to where there is no gap in the clamps. Mine had maybe 1/16 inch gap and gave me the steering wheel play of about 1 inch. It is a little difficult to reach with wrenches so they apparently just gave up.


Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
 
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