Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » How to Repair Skin Separation (Cockpit skin to floor gap)
| How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98159] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 01:26  |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I've taken apart the cockpit area to refinish, repair and upgrade.
The skin on the driver and pass side is separated from the floor, about 1/4 in. on the driver side and less on pass side. The center of the belt line is about 3 or 4 in. up from the floor.
It seems to me like the nose of the front cap is sagging down, causing the area to bow out; any jacking on the nose areas has not reduced the bulge that is noticeable on the outside.
I could use an alum angle and fasteners, but that will make the repair visible on the outside.
Seal it up and ignore it is not my style of work.
How has this challenge been handled?
I want to say thank you now for any help, and the help I have received just by reading the forum most every day.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98169 is a reply to message #98159] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 07:08  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Adrien,
The bulging fiberglass on each side of the cockpit is sometimes called
"Chipmunk Cheeks" and is present to some extent on most GMC's. It MAY be
cause by sagging as you suggest, but I've never heard of a way to fix it by
correcting such a root cause.
I suspect most of us have just filled the gap with spray foam or caulk and
avoid looking down the side of the coach.
A more complete fix is to remove the rubber rub strip on the beltline and
install flat head screws from the outside into the inner wall before the
sealing. Replacing the rub strip covers the screw heads.
The most complete fix I've seen was by a Corvette specialist who gave a
presentation at a GMCES rally several years ago: He used some sort of two
part adhesive, the specifics of which I don't recall, to adhere a fiberglass
angle to the inside of the fiberglass after pushing it into place from the
outside. Both the adhesive and screws held it the floor.
You might pioneer the use of the aluminum angle adhered with 3M 5200. I'd
back it up with the screws through the beltline though.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 2:26 AM, Adrien Genesoto <fixman54@syix.com> wrote:
>
> ...The skin on the driver and pass side is separated from the floor, about
> 1/4 in. on the driver side and less on pass side. The center of the belt
> line is about 3 or 4 in. up from the floor.
>
> It seems to me like the nose of the front cap is sagging down, causing the
> area to bow out; any jacking on the nose areas has not reduced the bulge
> that is noticeable on the outside.
>
> I could use an alum angle and fasteners, but that will make the repair
> visible on the outside.
> Seal it up and ignore it is not my style of work.
>
> How has this challenge been handled?
> ...
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GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98172 is a reply to message #98159] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 07:20 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Adrien,
Here is one photo album by Richard...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4019
Dennis Sexton
73 PD 230
Germantown, TN
USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Adrien Genesoto <fixman54@syix.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 1:26 am
Subject: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation
I've taken apart the cockpit area to refinish, repair and upgrade.
The skin on the driver and pass side is separated from the floor, about 1/4 in.
n the driver side and less on pass side. The center of the belt line is about 3
r 4 in. up from the floor.
It seems to me like the nose of the front cap is sagging down, causing the area
o bow out; any jacking on the nose areas has not reduced the bulge that is
oticeable on the outside.
I could use an alum angle and fasteners, but that will make the repair visible
n the outside.
eal it up and ignore it is not my style of work.
How has this challenge been handled?
I want to say thank you now for any help, and the help I have received just by
eading the forum most every day.
-
drien
5 Glenbrook
uba City,Ca.
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MCnet mailing list
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98177 is a reply to message #98176] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 07:40 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Ken H,
Did Gene use angle up and down? Not that clear in the photos..
Dennis Sexton
73 PD 230
Germantown, TN
USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 7:35 am
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation
THAT'S the one! Still can't remember Gene's last name (from Macon, GA) any
ore than I remembered that he used and aluminum angle AND the bolts through
he rub rail.
Wish I'd done mine that way before I filled the gap with caulk 10 years ago.
Ken H.
n Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 8:20 AM, Dennis S <dennisfsexton@aol.com> wrote:
>
Adrien,
Here is one photo album by Richard...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4019
______________________________________________
MCnet mailing list
ist Information and Subscription Options:
ttp://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98216 is a reply to message #98177] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 11:56 |
Richard Sowers Jr
Messages: 24
Registered: January 2005
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Dennis,
The process that gene used was to drill the holes through the belt
line when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC into
the metal structure in the cab. He used small flat head bolts to pull
the "Chipmunk Cheek" flat to match the profile of the rest of the
coach. That still left a space between the floor and the side of the
cab. To fix that he used a piece of 90 degree angle aluminum, angle
down, glued with 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (black) for aluminum
to aluminum to bond the aluminum angle to the existing floor
structure. He backed that up with rivets (mainly to hold things in
place while the adhesives setup). You can see this in the photo. What
is very hard to see in the photo is that he used a scrap peace of SMC
between the aluminum angle and the side of the coach to deal with the
difference between the flat aluminum angle and the curve in the side
of the coach. He used 8219 Panel Adhesive for SMC to metal/SMC, to
adhere the SMC strip to the aluminum angle, then sanded the SMC strip
to match the side of the coach. Then he used the 8219 Panel Adhesive
again to adhere the aluminum angle, SMC sandwich to the side of the
coach. The holes were pre-drilled for the rivets, those are what is
used to hold the aluminum angle/smc in place while the two types of
adhesive setup. Hope that helps.....
Richard Sowers
74 Sequoia
Fayetteville, NC
On Sep 2, 2010, at 8:40 AM, Dennis S wrote:
>
> Ken H,
>
> Did Gene use angle up and down? Not that clear in the photos..
>
>
> Dennis Sexton
> 73 PD 230
> Germantown, TN
> USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 7:35 am
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation
>
>
> THAT'S the one! Still can't remember Gene's last name (from Macon,
> GA) any
> ore than I remembered that he used and aluminum angle AND the bolts
> through
> he rub rail.
> Wish I'd done mine that way before I filled the gap with caulk 10
> years ago.
> Ken H.
>
> n Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 8:20 AM, Dennis S <dennisfsexton@aol.com> wrote:
>>
> Adrien,
>
> Here is one photo album by Richard...
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4019
>
>
> ______________________________________________
> MCnet mailing list
> ist Information and Subscription Options:
> ttp://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98220 is a reply to message #98216] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 12:38 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Richard,
Thank you for the further explanation -- now it is more clear.
I was trying to determine from the photos the differences in the inside of the panel -- and did not see what the through bolts could connect to that would pull in the sides.
Regards,
Dennis
Dennis Sexton
73 GMC
Germantown, TN
USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Sowers <sowersr@nc.rr.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 11:56 am
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation
Dennis,
The process that gene used was to drill the holes through the belt
ine when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC into
he metal structure in the cab. He used small flat head bolts to pull
he "Chipmunk Cheek" flat to match the profile of the rest of the
oach. That still left a space between the floor and the side of the
ab. To fix that he used a piece of 90 degree angle aluminum, angle
own, glued with 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (black) for aluminum
o aluminum to bond the aluminum angle to the existing floor
tructure. He backed that up with rivets (mainly to hold things in
lace while the adhesives setup). You can see this in the photo. What
s very hard to see in the photo is that he used a scrap peace of SMC
etween the aluminum angle and the side of the coach to deal with the
ifference between the flat aluminum angle and the curve in the side
f the coach. He used 8219 Panel Adhesive for SMC to metal/SMC, to
dhere the SMC strip to the aluminum angle, then sanded the SMC strip
o match the side of the coach. Then he used the 8219 Panel Adhesive
gain to adhere the aluminum angle, SMC sandwich to the side of the
oach. The holes were pre-drilled for the rivets, those are what is
sed to hold the aluminum angle/smc in place while the two types of
dhesive setup. Hope that helps.....
Richard Sowers
4 Sequoia
ayetteville, NC
n Sep 2, 2010, at 8:40 AM, Dennis S wrote:
>
Ken H,
Did Gene use angle up and down? Not that clear in the photos..
Dennis Sexton
73 PD 230
Germantown, TN
USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 7:35 am
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation
THAT'S the one! Still can't remember Gene's last name (from Macon,
GA) any
ore than I remembered that he used and aluminum angle AND the bolts
through
he rub rail.
Wish I'd done mine that way before I filled the gap with caulk 10
years ago.
Ken H.
n Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 8:20 AM, Dennis S <dennisfsexton@aol.com> wrote:
>
Adrien,
Here is one photo album by Richard...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4019
______________________________________________
MCnet mailing list
ist Information and Subscription Options:
ttp://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
MCnet mailing list
ist Information and Subscription Options:
ttp://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98253 is a reply to message #98216] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 16:22 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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RICHARD!!!
Good to hear from you! Isn't that your hairy face in the photos?
Sure glad you brought your memory along to help out my CRS! What is Gene's
last name? I'm not sure whether he's still got his Corvette place in Macon
(or his GMC); he had some financial problems a few years back.
How's your GMC coming along? You're not letting another tree grow behind
the bumper, are you?
For those who don't know Richard, go to GMCEast and read his presentation on
GMC steering columns -- a masterpiece.
Ken H.
On Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Richard Sowers <sowersr@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> The process that gene used was to drill the holes through the belt
> line when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC ...
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] How to Repair Skin Separation [message #98262 is a reply to message #98253] |
Thu, 02 September 2010 16:58 |
Richard Sowers Jr
Messages: 24
Registered: January 2005
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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To bad for you guys, yes thats my face......... what you can't see
very well is my contorted arm stuck up inside the wheel well as I
tried to reach the shutter button on my camera with out dropping it,
and still get a useful image. My notes from that day show Gene's last
name as Tucker. I have his business card somewhere.
No, tree........ but I did chase out a copperhead from underneath it
last week. Lets just say it will still be a while before I can drive
it down to see you. I have lots of parts, stored in several places
including, the front clip out of Dave's coach in my garage waiting to
be torn down. That will happen as soon as it cools down a little.
I am still around, and read about every post... even when there are
300 or 400 waiting for me.
Richard Sowers
74 Sequoia
Fayetteville, NC
On Sep 2, 2010, at 5:22 PM, Ken Henderson wrote:
> RICHARD!!!
>
> Good to hear from you! Isn't that your hairy face in the photos?
>
> Sure glad you brought your memory along to help out my CRS! What is
> Gene's
> last name? I'm not sure whether he's still got his Corvette place
> in Macon
> (or his GMC); he had some financial problems a few years back.
>
> How's your GMC coming along? You're not letting another tree grow
> behind
> the bumper, are you?
>
> For those who don't know Richard, go to GMCEast and read his
> presentation on
> GMC steering columns -- a masterpiece.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Richard Sowers <sowersr@nc.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>> The process that gene used was to drill the holes through the belt
>> line when the rubber was removed, the holes went through the SMC ...
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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