Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes...
| [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95573] |
Thu, 12 August 2010 16:54  |
KRDietz
Messages: 133
Registered: July 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
well but it's time for new stuff.
The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95576 is a reply to message #95573] |
Thu, 12 August 2010 17:26  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Kelvin, this not about brakes but IIRC you have some back up lamps
incorporated into your front bumper ends that illuminate the side of the
coach. do you remember where you got them? If you are forced to bleed brakes
by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would serve to
prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the pressure on
both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
> well but it's time for new stuff.
>
> The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
> Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
> ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
> GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
>
> FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
> under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
> allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
>
>
> Kelvin
> '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Bumper backup lights... [message #95606 is a reply to message #95578] |
Thu, 12 August 2010 21:11 |
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I've always thought that the backup lights from a PT Cruiser would be neat
docking lights mounted on the rear Ts. I've also gawked at the little round
backup lights on the Chevy HHR. They could be angled whereas the PT Crusier
lights couldn't.
Byron
KRDietz wrote:
> Just bought them from a local autoparts store. The mounting brackets
> were more involved than I expected. Ended up with one bolt holding it
> all in place, however. I should take a picture or two. They're pretty
> handy for backing up at night. Really should add bigger/better lights
> on the back bumper, too. The OEM backup lights are pretty worthless,
> obviously.
>
> Kelvin
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--
Byron Songer
Full-timing to enjoy the USA
Former owner but still an admirer
GMC paint schemes at -
http://www.songerconsulting.net
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95766 is a reply to message #95576] |
Fri, 13 August 2010 22:47 |
KRDietz
Messages: 133
Registered: July 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by finger
pressure.
Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to know
that won't hurt anything first...
Kelvin
On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you are forced to bleed brakes
> by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would serve to
> prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
> scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the pressure
> on
> both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
> motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 Royale 403
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
> > well but it's time for new stuff.
> >
> > The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
> > Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
> > ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
> > GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
> >
> > FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
> > under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> > motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
> > allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
> >
> >
> > Kelvin
> > '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95767 is a reply to message #95766] |
Fri, 13 August 2010 22:57 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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From Ken Henderson
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5332&cat=3510
Are we sure you need to depress that push rod?
I installed 80mm calipers in Aug 2004 (the last time I bled the brakes)
and I don't remember depressing that push rod. Brakes bled out fine and
have worked well for 6 years.
FWIW, the fluid in the master cylinder looked pretty nice. Not clear as
new but no "mud". We'll see what comes out of the lines tomorrow. I
should have bled the brakes before this. Time just flies...
Kelvin
> Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
> It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by
> finger pressure.
>
> Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to
> know that won't hurt anything first...
>
> Kelvin
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com
> <mailto:jamesh1296@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> If you are forced to bleed brakes
> by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would
> serve to
> prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
> scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the
> pressure on
> both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
> motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 Royale 403
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com
> <mailto:krdietz@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
> > well but it's time for new stuff.
> >
> > The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
> > Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
> > ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
> > GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
> >
> > FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
> > under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> > motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
> > allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
> >
> >
> > Kelvin
> > '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95768 is a reply to message #95766] |
Fri, 13 August 2010 23:09 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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A quick question. Is the light on the dash that says brake lit? If it is,
the spool valve needs to be centered to turn it out. Those things get full
of crud like the MC, but If it won't move then at least two things are
possible. One being the spool valve is seized in the bore, and the other is
that the fluid on both sides is pressurized and preventing any motion. You
can break loose one of the brake lines and lose pressure to check this, but
be advised, those fittings are really tight and you should use a fitting
wrench on them. If the valve is stuck in the bore, my recommendation is to
replace the entire valve. Jim K and Jim B and probably others keep them in
stock. A c-clamp would seem to me to be too much pressure.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 8:47 PM, Kelvin Dietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
> It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by finger
> pressure.
>
> Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to
> know
> that won't hurt anything first...
>
> Kelvin
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > If you are forced to bleed brakes
> > by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would serve to
> > prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
> > scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the pressure
> > on
> > both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
> > motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Or
> > 78 Royale 403
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
> > > well but it's time for new stuff.
> > >
> > > The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
> > > Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
> > > ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
> > > GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
> > >
> > > FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
> > > under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> > > motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
> > > allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
> > >
> > >
> > > Kelvin
> > > '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95770 is a reply to message #95768] |
Fri, 13 August 2010 23:47 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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James Hupy wrote:
> A quick question. Is the light on the dash that says brake lit?
Nope. Never has. I trust that it won't if I keep the brakes in good
shape.
>Those things get full
> of crud like the MC, but If it won't move then at least two things are
> possible. One being the spool valve is seized in the bore,
I'd love to take it all apart and clean it out. Since I need to use the
rig next weekend - and we all know how things can go "sideways" when you
least expect it - I'm not doing that this time.
> and the other is
> that the fluid on both sides is pressurized and preventing any motion.
Pressurized just sitting there? That's possible? Hmmm...
> You can break loose one of the brake lines and lose pressure to check this, but
> be advised, those fittings are really tight and you should use a fitting
> wrench on them.
Yup. I'm a big fan of not destroying brake fittings. Flare-nut
wrenches in the traveling toolbox, in fact.
If the valve is stuck in the bore, my recommendation is to
> replace the entire valve. Jim K and Jim B and probably others keep them in
> stock. A c-clamp would seem to me to be too much pressure.
Yeah... I didn't like the idea of leaning on it with a C-clamp either.
I'll try popping one of the fittings and see what happens but I think
I'll try and bleed around it this time.
Thanks for the info.
Kelvin
>
> On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 8:47 PM, Kelvin Dietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
>> It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by finger
>> pressure.
>>
>> Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to
>> know
>> that won't hurt anything first...
>>
>> Kelvin
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If you are forced to bleed brakes
>>> by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would serve to
>>> prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
>>> scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the pressure
>>> on
>>> both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
>>> motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
>>> Jim Hupy
>>> Salem, Or
>>> 78 Royale 403
>>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
>>>> well but it's time for new stuff.
>>>>
>>>> The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
>>>> Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
>>>> ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
>>>> GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
>>>>
>>>> FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
>>>> under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
>>>> motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
>>>> allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Kelvin
>>>> '73 23' in Eugene, OR
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95779 is a reply to message #95767] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 06:09 |
gmcrv1
Messages: 839
Registered: August 2007
Location: Memphis
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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Kelvin,
I think you will find muddy looking fluid coming out of the lines. Most
people look at the fluid in the master cylinder and see how clean it is and
then put off changing it. Of course, what's in the master, has never been
in the lines.
It would be nice to see clean fluid to come out right away though. If there
is not a lot of mileage on the fluid it just may be clean.
Good Luck,
Tom Eckert N2VWN
73 Glacier
Oakland, TN
On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 10:57 PM, Kelvin Dietz <kelvin@datsuns.com> wrote:
> From Ken Henderson
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5332&cat=3510
>
> Are we sure you need to depress that push rod?
>
> I installed 80mm calipers in Aug 2004 (the last time I bled the brakes)
> and I don't remember depressing that push rod. Brakes bled out fine and
> have worked well for 6 years.
>
> FWIW, the fluid in the master cylinder looked pretty nice. Not clear as
> new but no "mud". We'll see what comes out of the lines tomorrow. I
> should have bled the brakes before this. Time just flies...
>
> Kelvin
>
>
>
> > Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
> > It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by
> > finger pressure.
> >
> > Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to
> > know that won't hurt anything first...
> >
> > Kelvin
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com
> > <mailto:jamesh1296@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > If you are forced to bleed brakes
> > by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would
> > serve to
> > prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further
> and/or
> > scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the
> > pressure on
> > both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool
> valve
> > motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Or
> > 78 Royale 403
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com
> > <mailto:krdietz@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > > Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is
> working
> > > well but it's time for new stuff.
> > >
> > > The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on
> the
> > > Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't
> remember
> > > ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book
> of
> > > GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling
> detail..?
> > >
> > > FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a
> block
> > > under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> > > motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals
> are
> > > allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
> > >
> > >
> > > Kelvin
> > > '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95796 is a reply to message #95573] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 08:52 |
fred v
Messages: 999
Registered: April 2006
Location: pensacola, fl.
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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i studying Ken's work on the combination valve and what that pin in the front does i don't see why you would use that tool. by the way you don't push that pin in, the tool keeps it from coming out when you press the brake pedal. i've bled my brakes without using it.
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95823 is a reply to message #95766] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 12:52 |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Didn't bother with the Combo Valve pin. Pretty sure I didn't need to
now. The brakes bled out just fine.
Gravity bleed would have worked but would have taken forever. I clamped
a "stop" to the brake pedal so it couldn't go past it's normal motion
and had my wife pump the pedal. (She's been helping me do this for years
and is good at it. :^)
Not "pump, pump, pump, hold" but just pumping until the fluid (which was
slightly off color but pretty darned clear) changed to clear in the
vinyl tube attached to the bleed nipple.
Only glitch in the process was the Right Middle bleed screw was rounded.
Managed to get it loose using a 6-sided socket. It's on the list to
be replaced next time.
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
> Is that pin on the Combination Valve supposed to be hard to push in?
> It seems to wiggle when you touch it but no way I can push it in by
> finger pressure.
>
> Willing to put a C-clamp on there to depress it but it would be good to
> know that won't hurt anything first...
>
> Kelvin
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:26 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com
> <mailto:jamesh1296@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> If you are forced to bleed brakes
> by pumping and releasing the pedal, the block of wood idea would
> serve to
> prevent overstroking and introducing the crud downstream further and/or
> scoring the MC pistons and cups. The power bleeder equalizes the
> pressure on
> both sides of the combination valve so the need to hold the spool valve
> motionless is not necessary, that is a big plus for using it.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 Royale 403
>
> On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:54 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com
> <mailto:krdietz@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > Going to run fresh fluid thru my brakes this weekend. All is working
> > well but it's time for new stuff.
> >
> > The Maintenance Manual shows a tool for holding the "button" on the
> > Combination Valve closed while bleeding the system. I don't remember
> > ever doing that before but it can't be a bad thing if the Big Book of
> > GMC says to do it. An important thing or just a niggling detail..?
> >
> > FWIW, I'm not going to use a power bleeder. I'm going to put a block
> > under the pedal so it can't be pushed beyond the normal range of
> > motion.. Always had bad experiences when those old pistons seals are
> > allowed to get into new territory inside that MC bore.
> >
> >
> > Kelvin
> > '73 23' in Eugene, OR
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
_______________________________________________
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95827 is a reply to message #95818] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 13:02 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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""When you step on the brakes, the plunger extends. You only want to prevent it
from extending under pedal pressure, so it doesn't need muc couple of radiator
hose clamps linked together will work in a pinch.
""
Wow--you learn something every day!!
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95846 is a reply to message #95835] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 16:13 |
gmcrv1
Messages: 839
Registered: August 2007
Location: Memphis
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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Look into getting a couple of "Tap a Sockets". These are six point sockets
made especially for brake bleeder screws. They come in various sizes and
lengths. They slip onto your 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" etc. bleeder screw and
convert it to a six point 1/2" nut. Then put your six point wrench on the
Tap a Socket are add some torque. Great little tools. Snap-On, Mac, NAPA
etc all have them.
It's like using line wrenches instead of conventional wrench's on tubing.
JWID
Tom Eckert N2VWN
73 Glacier
Oakland, TN
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:06 PM, Mr.erf ERFisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com>wrote:
> >
> > Only glitch in the process was the Right Middle bleed screw was rounded.
> > Managed to get it loose using a 6-sided socket. It's on the list to
> > be replaced next time.
> >
>
> on the road again
> glad to get my feet
> back on the road again
>
>
> gene
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] More Bleeding Brakes... [message #95859 is a reply to message #95849] |
Sat, 14 August 2010 18:20 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
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Kelvin, it is truly a proportioning valve. The disc brakes on the front and
the drums on the rear have different initial pressure requirements and
different volumes required. These things have control orfices that are
carefully engineered and are different for each vehicle they are used on. I
can look up the specifics on that particular valve but suffice it to say you
should have a correctly functioniong one. Circle track and dune buggy guys
use ones that are adjustable. There are more opinions out there on what is
right than there are about fan clutches on GMCs. When braking systems are
modified to include disc brakes in the rear, I am sure that the stock valve
wouldn't be correct. Lotta engineering here. Kinda like shoehorning Japan
only Datsun engines into a 510. Emery is right when he said you should check
to see if the idiot light on your coach still works. I know you have changed
your dash a great deal. Great looking job.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 3:12 PM, KRDietz <krdietz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Emery Stora wrote:
> > On Aug 14, 2010, at 11:56 AM, KRDietz wrote:
> >
> >> I wonder if my plunger is just frozen in the bore. Pretty sure it
> >> didn't move.
> >>
> >> Then again, I don't have pressure on the system when I'm bleeding. The
> >> bleed screw is wide open until I close it after seeing clear fluid in
> >> the vinyl tube...
> >>
> >> Kelvin
> >>
> >
> >
> > First of all you should check to see if you bulb in the dash lights.
> > Disconnect the wire from the top of the combination valve.
> > Turn your key onto the drive position. Ground the connector that you
> have just removed.
> > Does the light come on? If not, then either the bulb is burned out
> or you have a bad wire.
> >
> > If it comes on, then open a bleeder on the back. Press on the brake
> pedal.
> > It should go down easily and the light should come on.
> > If it doesn't then your combo valve might be bad.
> >
> > Repeat by closing the back bleeder and open a front bleeder.
> >
> > Emery Stora
>
> Now that's an interesting thought. I will check that wire and make sure
> it's working.
>
> Let's suppose the Combo Valve IS frozen. What consequences? It's
> pretty much just there as a switch to light that dash warning light,
> right? The brakes have been working pretty much as you would expect GMC
> brakes to work. The Combo Valve is just a switch and a way to
> distribute fluid. No "proportioning" going on there, is there?
>
> Like I said... not taking it apart this time. I might delve into it
> this winter.
>
> Kelvin
>
>
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