| [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #94917] |
Sat, 07 August 2010 06:40  |
steve n
Messages: 79
Registered: July 2007
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Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places (which I've been known to do at times - most of the time according to my wife),but I can't seem to find a source that supplies the original type body side molding & rub rail.
I'd like to replace the moldings that run the entire length of the coach (both sides), but haven't found any anywhere.
Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions???
Thanks.....
Steve Nowak
F26083
'78 Royale Center Kitchen
TZE368V101877
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Steve Nowak
F26083
'78 Royale Center Kitchen
TZE368V101877
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #95025 is a reply to message #94986] |
Sun, 08 August 2010 09:36  |
Ken Coit
Messages: 151
Registered: November 2005
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I don't seem them on your web site.
Ken
On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 10:55 PM, Jim Kanomata <jimkanomata@gmail.com> wrote:
> You'll need to router out the hole for the marker lights.
> We have them already done, but maybe your rather do it yourself to save.
>
> On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 4:40 AM, fluffyms <fluffyms@juno.com> wrote:
>
> > Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places (which I've been known to do
> at
> > times - most of the time according to my wife),but I can't seem to find a
> > source that supplies the original type body side molding & rub rail.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Kanomata
> > Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
> > jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> > http://www.appliedgmc.com
> > 1-800-752-7502
> >
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--
Ken Coit, ND7N
Raleigh, NC
Parfait Royale
1978 Royale Rear Bath, 403, 3.07
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96152 is a reply to message #94917] |
Mon, 16 August 2010 21:24 |
Mike Teets
Messages: 299
Registered: January 2004
Location: Dublin, OH
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One option is to remove the side molding and just paint the aluminum band. I did that to mine and it came out pretty nicely. I just painted the strip with a flat black crinkle paint.
http://teamteets.org/gmc/DSC03982.JPG
| Quote: |
Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong places (which I've been known to do at times - most of the time according to my wife),but I can't seem to find a source that supplies the original type body side molding & rub rail.
I'd like to replace the moldings that run the entire length of the coach (both sides), but haven't found any anywhere.
Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions???
Thanks.....
Steve Nowak
F26083
'78 Royale Center Kitchen
TZE368V101877
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Mike, GMCing since 2002
77 Palm Beach, 260, 403
Dublin, OH
http://teamteets.com/gmc/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96180 is a reply to message #96165] |
Tue, 17 August 2010 07:59 |
Dr. Detroit
Messages: 158
Registered: April 2010
Location: Novi, MI.
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To get it on straight, you can use a piece of masking tape to create a guide line then follow the tape line when installing the molding.
1973 GMC 23'
All Birch and Maple Interior Cabinetry. TZE033V100221
"The Honeycomb Hideout"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96204 is a reply to message #96165] |
Tue, 17 August 2010 11:26 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| Hardie Johnson wrote on Mon, 16 August 2010 23:15 |
... I like the idea of just painting the remaining metal part. ...
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Keep in mind the metal part is very different between the early and late coaches.
Early coaches have a shiny steel backing that really needs the rubber insert to look right. Late coaches have the metal part that looks good when just painted.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96218 is a reply to message #96210] |
Tue, 17 August 2010 13:51 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Yes your side mouldings are glued and screwed on. What I find helpful is a
heavy dury heat gun and warm the end of the moulding next to any end. I use
a painters helper which looks like a putty knife but is much stiffer and has
a sharp point on one side to get under the end of the moulding to separate
it from the metal piece underneath. Be careful when separating the two not
to scratch up the metal piece if you are not going to replace the moulding.
I would also suggest that you check the interior of the coach for leaks
along the side seam. If you find any, then the metal strip must also be
removed and re-sealed. It would be my strong recommendation to NOT use any
silicone based sealants, otherwise the choice is up to you. This area is not
unlike the end cap to roof seams. There is both aluminum and fiberglas
materials with different coefficients of expansion and contraction at
different temperature ranges, so whatever you use here make sure that it is
non hardening and flexible when set up. Probably important that it be
paintable also which silicone based products are not. My way is not the only
way and opinions vary greatly as to which way is superior. Like Jim Bounds
says, the jury is still out on which product is the best, I have tried many,
some work some places and not others.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 11:04 AM, Charles Wood <cbwoodsr@swbell.net> wrote:
>
>
> My 77 Kingslay has the metal parts..
> The front part has screws and can be 'easily' removed/replaced..
> The back section from behind the divers window to the back doesn't have
> screws and I'm wondering if it's glued on or what is required to
> remove/replace it..
> Still wondering
>
> Thankx
> --
> CBWood
> 77 Kingslay
> MWC OK
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96267 is a reply to message #94917] |
Tue, 17 August 2010 20:39 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
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> There is no aluminum rail on the side of my 73 coach. It
> is molded fiberglass with stainless track with molding
> glued in the stainless track.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5570
> Charles
>
Wow, that is completely different than the rub rail on our '73.
On ours, there's no raised fiberglass. There's a big gap between the
aluminum and fiberglass which was originally covered by a wide
aluminum trim piece which probably had a vinyl insert. Unfortunately,
a PO removed all but the piece on the door and covered the gap with
plastic trim molding which isn't quite wide enough to hide the rivets.
I have some of the trim off currently, so will have to get a picture.
Karen
1973 23' Patience Tester
1975 26' Insanity Plea
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Side Mouldings [message #96431 is a reply to message #96218] |
Thu, 19 August 2010 12:26 |
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cbwoodsr
Messages: 1063
Registered: February 2004
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..I would also suggest that you check the interior of the coach for leaks along the side seam. If you find any, then the metal strip must also be removed and re-sealed...
How do you remove the metal strip???
On my drivers side, the front section has screws and can be removed.
The section behind that on the drivers side, doesnt have any visible screws that I have found and there's a spot towards the back that looks like it is torn like plastic.
Is this section glued on and how hard is it to remove the whole thing?
Havent checked the Pass side as the drivers side moulding has came off the entire length and I want to try and polish and/or paint it this time...
Thankx
CBWood
77 Kingslay
MWC OK
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