Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Front End Rehab
| Front End Rehab [message #92049] |
Thu, 15 July 2010 14:27  |
rowing guy
Messages: 31
Registered: October 2009
Location: Outside Philly
Karma: 0
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Greetings,
I am about to tear into the front end of my 73 Revcon, ummmm, GMC. In order to pass PA inspection, I must replace the bell crank and idler arm, replace the control
arm bushings, and sway bar bushings. I am planning on sending the bell crank
and idler arm to Dave Lenzi for rebuilding. Hopefully, I will hear from him soon.
I also have to put new boots on the CV joints. I am fortunate enough to have a
GMC specialist near me, in Quakertown, PA, Ken Frey. I'm going to see if he can rebuild the axles and R&R the front bearings and also look at the control arms for weaknesses/cracks. If necessary, I'll have him reinforce the control arm.
So, with that said, does anyone have any tips for me before I start
disassembling everything? I searched for a write up on this but didn't find anything with enough detail. No tip is too small or insignificant. I did read that
you can remove the lower control arm without a special tool, which is nice.
I'd like to note that the Revcon is really the same as your GMC with just a few subtle differences.
If your local (Philly area), like beer, BBQ, and want to make a few extra bucks and don't mind getting dirty with the red headed stepchild of the GMC, let me know.
Thanks.
Scott
The Flying Brick
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| Re: Front End Rehab [message #92077 is a reply to message #92049] |
Thu, 15 July 2010 20:03  |
John Sharpe
Messages: 489
Registered: February 2006
Location: Texas
Karma: 1
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| Quote: |
Scott wrote:...... I did read that
you can remove the lower control arm without a special tool.....
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Really, I don't know who wrote that and you may choose not to use the tool to release the tension of the torsion bar on the lower control arm. But, you will need it to install so just get one and use it to release the tension on the lower arm as well. That way you can avoid damaging the adjustment bolt and adjustment pivot block.
Now, the upper can be removed without even taking out the axles. You do have to remove the shock though.
John Sharpe
Humble,TX
'78 Eleganza TBI
'89 Spectrum 2000 MPI V-10
'40 Ford Panel Delivery TPI
johnasharpe@gmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front End Rehab [message #92084 is a reply to message #92049] |
Thu, 15 July 2010 20:30 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Scott,
I wish I lived closer. Those are all my requirements.
Eventually, like John says, you'll need the tool to adjust the torsion
bars. Best is to see if a GMCer near you knows of a loaner. If not,
I have one that I will loan out.
On Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 12:27 PM, Scott Brown <sbrown928@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am about to tear into the front end of my 73 Revcon, ummmm, GMC. In order to pass PA inspection, I must replace the bell crank and idler arm, replace the control
> arm bushings, and sway bar bushings. I am planning on sending the bell crank
> and idler arm to Dave Lenzi for rebuilding. Hopefully, I will hear from him soon.
>
> I also have to put new boots on the CV joints. I am fortunate enough to have a
> GMC specialist near me, in Quakertown, PA, Ken Frey. I'm going to see if he can rebuild the axles and R&R the front bearings and also look at the control arms for weaknesses/cracks. If necessary, I'll have him reinforce the control arm.
>
> So, with that said, does anyone have any tips for me before I start
> disassembling everything? I searched for a write up on this but didn't find anything with enough detail. No tip is too small or insignificant. I did read that
> you can remove the lower control arm without a special tool, which is nice.
>
> I'd like to note that the Revcon is really the same as your GMC with just a few subtle differences.
>
> If your local (Philly area), like beer, BBQ, and want to make a few extra bucks and don't mind getting dirty with the red headed stepchild of the GMC, let me know.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
> The Flying Brick
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/
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| Re: Front End Rehab [message #92089 is a reply to message #92049] |
Thu, 15 July 2010 21:01 |
Jim Rountree
Messages: 47
Registered: July 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Have you considered having the upper control arms reworked for increased caster to about +4 degrees
Jim Rountree
San Antonio,TX
76 PB,
76 Royale RB
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| Re: Front End Rehab [message #92100 is a reply to message #92049] |
Thu, 15 July 2010 21:49 |
rowing guy
Messages: 31
Registered: October 2009
Location: Outside Philly
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Thanks Fellas,
Here's the post (below) I saw that mentioned not using a tool. Thanks Steve, if I need one, I'll be sure to let you know. The search is on.
Jim, no plans of modifying the control arm. I have the rubber bushing with extra adjustability in it. the coach track pretty straight, I don't feel like I need the extra caster. Also, since I'll be doing track events with it, I didn't want to mess with the steering too much. Boy, I can't wait to get it on the track at Watkins Glen. Kidding, of course.
I'll also be replacing the shocks
Scott
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum/index.php?t=rview&goto=64160&th=9337
Sir: you don`t have to have an unloader tool to remove the lower A-arm. Block the frame up, put a floor jack under the lower arm, remove the shock, lower ball joint, and sway bar bolt then let the jack down slowly. It should be loose about 5 oclock. make sure and tie up the hub if you are not removing it.
with the pressure off you can remove the bolts and remove, just mark the clocking as to put it back from whence it came. If you remove the tensioner bolt, count the # of turns and wright it down. It isn`t hard, just a little agrivating the first time. be careful..
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
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| Re: Front End Rehab [message #92146 is a reply to message #92100] |
Fri, 16 July 2010 07:28 |
John Sharpe
Messages: 489
Registered: February 2006
Location: Texas
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Quote: |
...... It should be loose about 5 o'clock.......
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Scott, If you do it that way don't use a bottle jack. 5 o'clock is a pretty good angle and the jack can shoot out like a cannon. Use a floor jack that can roll easily and be careful.
John Sharpe
Humble,TX
'78 Eleganza TBI
'89 Spectrum 2000 MPI V-10
'40 Ford Panel Delivery TPI
johnasharpe@gmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front End Rehab [message #92148 is a reply to message #92146] |
Fri, 16 July 2010 07:45 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Speaking of torsion bars: A Dixielander widow has a complete port-a-power
set with long, short, & stubby rams AND a custom made adapter for adjusting
torsion bars. That adapter is a pair of long 9/16" (maybe 5/8") threaded
rods with a couple of crossbars to safely position a ram. It probably would
not work well without a pit, but it was very convenient when we used it in
the Bean Station pit a few years back to set 3-4 coaches' ride heights. I
paid little attention to the design and none to the brand of port-a-power,
but it's a professional quality unit (NOT HF) in excellent condition,
including a metal storage case.
If you're interested, let me know, with a bid -- don't bother with a
lo-ball. It MAY be possible to get photos -- I think I remember its
location well enough to direct her daughter to it.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:28 AM, John Sharpe <johnasharpe@earthlink.net>wrote:
>
>
> Quote:
> > ...... It should be loose about 5 o'clock.......
>
>
> Scott, If you do it that way don't use a bottle jack. 5 o'clock is a
> pretty good angle and the jack can shoot out like a cannon. Use a floor
> jack that can roll easily and be careful.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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