Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Running wire safely
| [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90761] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 20:57  |
Gerald Work
Messages: 102
Registered: June 2010
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Hi Pete,
Running heavy gage wire is not hard if you follow some simple safety rules.
First, never rely on the wire insulation alone to guard against damage from abrasion. A sacrificial 3/4" water hose and heavy wire ties are your friend here. Cut the hose lengthwise and insert the positive leg of the electric wire inside a hunk of this for 6" either side of ANY place that wire could rub on ANY frame or metal body part. Secure the hose closed over the wire with cable ties (use only good quality wire ties, do not buy them from places like HF!). "Saving" a few cents here could cost you big time.
Use good quality rubbered covered METAL cable clamps sized to fit properly over the outside of the hose - you want to hold the hose cable combo without crimping it or having so loose that it can move while going down the road. Screw these into the under side of wooden floor on the outside of the frame rails. Avoid the inside of the frame rails as those areas can become quite hot. Get as far away from the headers as you can.
Now for the most important rule, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any kind of crimp on fitting on your wire ends. Most every good auto parts stores have an induction soldering facility whereby they can solder on any connection you need for a nominal cost. Use that service as it will save you all kinds of grief down the road.
Anywhere a metal wire end fitting connects to ANYTHING use a good quality anti corrosion grease. You do not want dissimilar materials to create any kind of electrolysis or corrosion. Do this for BOTH the positive and the negative wire ends. Both will carry the same current and any resistance in either will have the same negative effect on your system.
Finally, size your wire correctly. Do not scrimp here! Good quality 12 ga wire can carry up to 20 amps. 10 ga up to 30 amps and 6 ga up to 50 amps. For our applications do not go front to back with anything less than 4 ga. You will be traversing at least 30 feet and dc voltage will become an issue. 2 ga stranded welding wire would be better.
I know many on this chat group like to do whatever is cheapest, but this is simply not a good place to scrimp. Do it once, do it right, do it safely. Enjoy, hope this is helpful.
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90786 is a reply to message #90761] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 23:19  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I also found that welding cable can be purchased in the needed lengths, in the needed colors, and is a whole lot easier to route as it is much more flexible. Using the proper insulated metal clamps and rubber grommets is just a good idea and will never get you in trouble.
Try checking with a local welding supplier.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90803 is a reply to message #90761] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 07:46 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Gerald Work wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 21:57 |
Hi Pete,
Running heavy gage wire is not hard if you follow some simple safety rules.
First, never rely on the wire insulation alone to guard against damage from abrasion. A sacrificial 3/4" water hose and heavy wire ties are your friend here. Cut the hose lengthwise and insert the positive leg of the electric wire inside a hunk of this for 6" either side of ANY place that wire could rub on ANY frame or metal body part. Secure the hose closed over the wire with cable ties (use only good quality wire ties, do not buy them from places like HF!). "Saving" a few cents here could cost you big time.
Use good quality rubber covered METAL cable clamps sized to fit properly over the outside of the hose - you want to hold the hose cable combo without crimping it or having so loose that it can move while going down the road. Screw these into the under side of wooden floor on the outside of the frame rails. Avoid the inside of the frame rails as those areas can become quite hot. Get as far away from the headers as you can.
Now for the most important rule, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any kind of crimp on fitting on your wire ends. Most every good auto parts stores have an induction soldering facility whereby they can solder on any connection you need for a nominal cost. Use that service as it will save you all kinds of grief down the road.
Anywhere a metal wire end fitting connects to ANYTHING use a good quality anti corrosion grease. You do not want dissimilar materials to create any kind of electrolysis or corrosion. Do this for BOTH the positive and the negative wire ends. Both will carry the same current and any resistance in either will have the same negative effect on your system.
Finally, size your wire correctly. Do not scrimp here! Good quality 12 ga wire can carry up to 20 amps. 10 ga up to 30 amps and 6 ga up to 50 amps. For our applications do not go front to back with anything less than 4 ga. You will be traversing at least 30 feet and dc voltage will become an issue. 2 ga stranded welding wire would be better.
I know many on this chat group like to do whatever is cheapest, but this is simply not a good place to scrimp. Do it once, do it right, do it safely. Enjoy, hope this is helpful.
Jerry
|
Jerry,
While I agree with most of what you are saying, I have one point I have to make. Few (if any) shops around here have the capability to effectively terminate cable larger than 10AWG. The only shops that can, are welding equipment suppliers. They only crimp, but a good crimp with the correct terminal and the correct die set will be a gas-tight connection and will last years in a corrosive environment (like boats). Welding shops usually have a hydraulic dies set and are closer to a Porta-Power than any other tool I know.
I have often soldered large cables by taking the tip off a large soldering gun and shoving the terminal between poles.
Cheap, hammer type cable crimpers are not reliable and should be avoided.
A couple more things before I go on:
It doesn't matter what you are doing, but the cost of the copper will be a small part of the overall cost. Buy conductors that are at least as large as you can possibly imagine requiring for that installation.
If you are doing a tough pull (installation of cable), pull in at least one spare, more if you can manage. You may never need it, but if you need it and don't have it, you have to do that job again. (Again - stories available for beer)
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90818 is a reply to message #90803] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 09:14 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I needed a crimper to make up the new cables for the Avion that I am
redoing. Crimping is always best
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
With all the 20% coupons that are out there in most magazine it cost
me $49.
JR Wright
On Jul 2, 2010, at 8:46 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
>
> Gerald Work wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 21:57
>> Hi Pete,
>>
>> Running heavy gage wire is not hard if you follow some simple
>> safety rules.
>>
>> First, never rely on the wire insulation alone to guard against
>> damage from abrasion. A sacrificial 3/4" water hose and heavy wire
>> ties are your friend here. Cut the hose lengthwise and insert the
>> positive leg of the electric wire inside a hunk of this for 6"
>> either side of ANY place that wire could rub on ANY frame or metal
>> body part. Secure the hose closed over the wire with cable ties
>> (use only good quality wire ties, do not buy them from places like
>> HF!). "Saving" a few cents here could cost you big time.
>>
>> Use good quality rubber covered METAL cable clamps sized to fit
>> properly over the outside of the hose - you want to hold the hose
>> cable combo without crimping it or having so loose that it can move
>> while going down the road. Screw these into the under side of
>> wooden floor on the outside of the frame rails. Avoid the inside
>> of the frame rails as those areas can become quite hot. Get as far
>> away from the headers as you can.
>>
>> Now for the most important rule, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use any kind
>> of crimp on fitting on your wire ends. Most every good auto parts
>> stores have an induction soldering facility whereby they can solder
>> on any connection you need for a nominal cost. Use that service as
>> it will save you all kinds of grief down the road.
>>
>> Anywhere a metal wire end fitting connects to ANYTHING use a good
>> quality anti corrosion grease. You do not want dissimilar
>> materials to create any kind of electrolysis or corrosion. Do this
>> for BOTH the positive and the negative wire ends. Both will carry
>> the same current and any resistance in either will have the same
>> negative effect on your system.
>>
>> Finally, size your wire correctly. Do not scrimp here! Good
>> quality 12 ga wire can carry up to 20 amps. 10 ga up to 30 amps
>> and 6 ga up to 50 amps. For our applications do not go front to
>> back with anything less than 4 ga. You will be traversing at least
>> 30 feet and dc voltage will become an issue. 2 ga stranded welding
>> wire would be better.
>>
>> I know many on this chat group like to do whatever is cheapest, but
>> this is simply not a good place to scrimp. Do it once, do it
>> right, do it safely. Enjoy, hope this is helpful.
>>
>> Jerry
>
> Jerry,
>
> While I agree with most of what you are saying, I have one point I
> have to make. Few (if any) shops around here have the capability to
> effectively terminate cable larger than 10AWG. The only shops that
> can, are welding equipment suppliers. They only crimp, but a good
> crimp with the correct terminal and the correct die set will be a
> gas-tight connection and will last years in a corrosive environment
> (like boats). Welding shops usually have a hydraulic dies set and
> are closer to a Porta-Power than any other tool I know.
>
> I have often soldered large cables by taking the tip off a large
> soldering gun and shoving the terminal between poles.
>
> Cheap, hammer type cable crimpers are not reliable and should be
> avoided.
>
> A couple more things before I go on:
> It doesn't matter what you are doing, but the cost of the copper
> will be a small part of the overall cost. Buy conductors that are
> at least as large as you can possibly imagine requiring for that
> installation.
> If you are doing a tough pull (installation of cable), pull in at
> least one spare, more if you can manage. You may never need it, but
> if you need it and don't have it, you have to do that job again.
> (Again - stories available for beer)
>
>
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
> SE Michigan - DTW 3.2/4R
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90823 is a reply to message #90820] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 09:37 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Guys,
When I was installing the 2000 watt inverter in Double Trouble I bought a
hammer crimper from the guy that sold me the cables.
I asked him about soldering vs. crimping and he laughed.
He noted that is one of the classic "arguments" that goes on between
proponents of both methods on electrical forums.
I guess it's akin to:
Steel sidewalls vs. ragwalls
Hub centered vs. lug centered
Carbs vs. FI
And so on!
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:32 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
A good crimp connector will be a better electrical connection than solder.
Solder has a much higher resistance, you may have a higher voltage drop
across the solder connection than you do in the whole wire!
But on the other hand, we are not building space craft here. In the big
scheme of things, it likely will not make much difference which way you go!
--
Bruce Hislop,
S. Ontario Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI and ESC.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
_______________________________________________
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90826 is a reply to message #90823] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 09:49 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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My preference too Rob. I have been using a hammer crimper for 20
years now. Got it from NAPA. I also shrink tube the connection.
On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 7:37 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Guys,
>
> When I was installing the 2000 watt inverter in Double Trouble I bought a
> hammer crimper from the guy that sold me the cables.
>
> I asked him about soldering vs. crimping and he laughed.
>
> He noted that is one of the classic "arguments" that goes on between
> proponents of both methods on electrical forums.
>
> I guess it's akin to:
>
> Steel sidewalls vs. ragwalls
> Hub centered vs. lug centered
> Carbs vs. FI
>
> And so on!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
> [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:32 AM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
>
>
>
> A good crimp connector will be a better electrical connection than solder.
> Solder has a much higher resistance, you may have a higher voltage drop
> across the solder connection than you do in the whole wire!
>
> But on the other hand, we are not building space craft here. In the big
> scheme of things, it likely will not make much difference which way you go!
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop,
> S. Ontario Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI and ESC.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90856 is a reply to message #90826] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 14:49 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Steven Ferguson wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 10:49 |
My preference too Rob. I have been using a hammer crimper for 20
years now. Got it from NAPA. I also shrink tube the connection.
On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 7:37 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
Guys,
When I was installing the 2000 watt inverter in Double Trouble I bought a hammer crimper from the guy that sold me the cables.
I asked him about soldering vs. crimping and he laughed.
He noted that is one of the classic "arguments" that goes on between proponents of both methods on electrical forums.
I guess it's akin to:
Steel sidewalls vs. ragwalls
Hub centered vs. lug centered
Carbs vs. FI
And so on!
Regards,
Rob M.
On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:32 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
A good crimp connector will be a better electrical connection than solder.
Solder has a much higher resistance, you may have a higher voltage drop across the solder connection than you do in the whole wire!
But on the other hand, we are not building space craft here. In the big scheme of things, it likely will not make much difference which way you go!
--
Bruce Hislop,
S. Ontario Canada
--
Steve Ferguson
|
In many years of repairing high load electrics, I have never seen a soldered connector fail in overload that it was the first failure. By the same token, I have frequently had to repair larger cables with crimped lugs where the crimp was the failure.
Steve, I am glad that you are successful with your hammer crimp. I have been also, but I have also had crimps with that family of tool go bad that I had to reject and redo before installation. It also seems many people do not understand that the tool has to be driven until it can be not be driven more at any load.
Bruce, If your soldered joint has that much resistance, then the lug to wire fit was wrong from the get-go. The copper should be a very tight fit in the lug before it is soldered. Lug fit is much more critical than most people would believe and it is equally important to but compression and solder fittings.
There US Mil-Specs about this, but I know where they go and am not eager to get back into them.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90858 is a reply to message #90856] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 14:53 |
9736r
Messages: 21
Registered: February 2004
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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I too wasn't sure ... so ... both was the answer for me . A good crimp with
a ' put it in a vice ' tool , then fill with solder , then shrink sleeve .
So far so good .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Colie" <mcolie@chartermi.net>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
>
>
> Steven Ferguson wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 10:49
>> My preference too Rob. I have been using a hammer crimper for 20
>> years now. Got it from NAPA. I also shrink tube the connection.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 7:37 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>
>> wrote:
>> Guys,
>>
>> When I was installing the 2000 watt inverter in Double Trouble I bought a
>> hammer crimper from the guy that sold me the cables.
>> I asked him about soldering vs. crimping and he laughed.
>> He noted that is one of the classic "arguments" that goes on between
>> proponents of both methods on electrical forums.
>>
>> I guess it's akin to:
>> Steel sidewalls vs. ragwalls
>> Hub centered vs. lug centered
>> Carbs vs. FI
>>
>> And so on!
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>>
>> On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
>> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:32 AM
>> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
>>
>> A good crimp connector will be a better electrical connection than
>> solder.
>> Solder has a much higher resistance, you may have a higher voltage drop
>> across the solder connection than you do in the whole wire!
>>
>> But on the other hand, we are not building space craft here. In the big
>> scheme of things, it likely will not make much difference which way you
>> go!
>>
>> --
>> Bruce Hislop,
>> S. Ontario Canada
>> --
>> Steve Ferguson
>
> In many years of repairing high load electrics, I have never seen a
> soldered connector fail in overload that it was the first failure. By the
> same token, I have frequently had to repair larger cables with crimped
> lugs where the crimp was the failure.
>
> Steve, I am glad that you are successful with your hammer crimp. I have
> been also, but I have also had crimps with that family of tool go bad that
> I had to reject and redo before installation. It also seems many people
> do not understand that the tool has to be driven until it can be not be
> driven more at any load.
>
> Bruce, If your soldered joint has that much resistance, then the lug to
> wire fit was wrong from the get-go. The copper should be a very tight fit
> in the lug before it is soldered. Lug fit is much more critical than most
> people would believe and it is equally important to but compression and
> solder fittings.
>
> There US Mil-Specs about this, but I know where they go and am not eager
> to get back into them.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
> SE Michigan - DTW 3.2/4R
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90868 is a reply to message #90856] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 18:28 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt,
I'm quite careful about using the right sized lug for the cable so
maybe that's why I've not had any failures. Still, as tight as those
hammer lug fittings are, I've seen how moisture can invade and really
crud up the connection. Hence, the shrink tube. I use the stuff that
has some kind of epoxy in it that melts as the tubing shrinks.
On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Matt Colie <mcolie@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
>
> Steven Ferguson wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 10:49
>> My preference too Rob. I have been using a hammer crimper for 20
>> years now. Got it from NAPA. I also shrink tube the connection.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 7:37 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
>> Guys,
>>
>> When I was installing the 2000 watt inverter in Double Trouble I bought a hammer crimper from the guy that sold me the cables.
>> I asked him about soldering vs. crimping and he laughed.
>> He noted that is one of the classic "arguments" that goes on between proponents of both methods on electrical forums.
>>
>> I guess it's akin to:
>> Steel sidewalls vs. ragwalls
>> Hub centered vs. lug centered
>> Carbs vs. FI
>>
>> And so on!
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>>
>> On Behalf Of Bruce Hislop
>> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:32 AM
>> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely
>>
>> A good crimp connector will be a better electrical connection than solder.
>> Solder has a much higher resistance, you may have a higher voltage drop across the solder connection than you do in the whole wire!
>>
>> But on the other hand, we are not building space craft here. In the big scheme of things, it likely will not make much difference which way you go!
>>
>> --
>> Bruce Hislop,
>> S. Ontario Canada
>> --
>> Steve Ferguson
>
> In many years of repairing high load electrics, I have never seen a soldered connector fail in overload that it was the first failure. By the same token, I have frequently had to repair larger cables with crimped lugs where the crimp was the failure.
>
> Steve, I am glad that you are successful with your hammer crimp. I have been also, but I have also had crimps with that family of tool go bad that I had to reject and redo before installation. It also seems many people do not understand that the tool has to be driven until it can be not be driven more at any load.
>
> Bruce, If your soldered joint has that much resistance, then the lug to wire fit was wrong from the get-go. The copper should be a very tight fit in the lug before it is soldered. Lug fit is much more critical than most people would believe and it is equally important to but compression and solder fittings.
>
> There US Mil-Specs about this, but I know where they go and am not eager to get back into them.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
> SE Michigan - DTW 3.2/4R
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90888 is a reply to message #90883] |
Fri, 02 July 2010 21:16 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Ken Coit wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 20:53 |
Ancor sells small gauge terminals with heat shrink and epoxy for sealing. I
suppse they might sell heavier gauge lugs too.
WD-40 is used by some to occupy the nooks and crannies that moisture will
find otherwise.
Ken Coit, ND7N
Raleigh, NC
Parfait Royale
1978 Royale Rear Bath, 403, 3.07
|
I have used Anti-oxidation grease and then covered the connection with shrink tubing.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90922 is a reply to message #90868] |
Sat, 03 July 2010 07:33 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
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| Steven Ferguson wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 19:28 |
Matt,
I'm quite careful about using the right sized lug for the cable so maybe that's why I've not had any failures. Still, as tight as those hammer lug fittings are, I've seen how moisture can invade and really crud up the connection. Hence, the shrink tube. I use the stuff that has some kind of epoxy in it that melts as the tubing shrinks.
--
Steve Ferguson
|
I loved sealing heat shrink stuff.
The two hammer crimp failures that I recall were probably both due to the necessary violence of the process. It takes some energy to close a 00 or larger lug and the crimp did not look and/or behave correctly when completed.
In complete honesty, the crimp failures that I have seen were also not properly set when manufactured. A good crimp is supposed to be a gas-tight connection. This alone should prevent internal corrosion, but that has been the common failure.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Running wire safely [message #90932 is a reply to message #90924] |
Sat, 03 July 2010 09:09 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/M50/180/400/Extra%20Heavy%20Duty%20Heat%20Shrink/Heat%20Shrink/
<http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/M50/180/400/Extra%20Heavy%20Duty%20Heat%20Shrink/Heat%20Shrink/>
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 8:42 AM, Matt Colie <mcolie@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
>
> WD0AFQ wrote on Fri, 02 July 2010 19:32
> > Steve, where do you get that kind of shrink tubing? I also have all of my
> heavy cables hammer crimped.
> > dan
>
> Dan,
>
> This is a supplier that I have used in the past.
> URL<
> http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Heat%20Shrink%20Tubing/
> >
>
> Just have Teri looking over your shoulder when you go there.
>
> Matt
> --
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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