| Gorilla Glue [message #90645] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 09:14  |
AStasunas
Messages: 58
Registered: April 2009
Location: Winter Springs, Fl
Karma: 0
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A while ago I posted a question about re-securing the front cap and the roof and based upon that I used 3M 5200 and blind rivets.
Now I need to seal the rear cap and roof. This is still secure but has a couple of areas that need attention.
A response to my old post suggested Gorilla glue and I have been thinking about it for this repair. I have used Gorilla glue on woodworking projects but I had not considered it for an external RV repair.
I'm wondering about other's experience of using Gorilla glue for repairing a seam. I know it's waterproof, but would it hold up exposed to the elements on a roof and is it flexible enough to withstand whatever flexing takes place up there?
Let me know of your thoughts and experience.
"Vinnie"
1975 Eleganza,
Winter Springs, Fl
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| Re: Gorilla Glue [message #90662 is a reply to message #90645] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 10:30  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| AStasunas wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 10:14 |
A while ago I posted a question about re-securing the front cap and the roof and based upon that I used 3M 5200 and blind rivets.
Now I need to seal the rear cap and roof. This is still secure but has a couple of areas that need attention.
A response to my old post suggested Gorilla glue and I have been thinking about it for this repair. I have used Gorilla glue on woodworking projects but I had not considered it for an external RV repair.
I'm wondering about other's experience of using Gorilla glue for repairing a seam. I know it's waterproof, but would it hold up exposed to the elements on a roof and is it flexible enough to withstand whatever flexing takes place up there?
Let me know of your thoughts and experience.
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Antony,
As you may know, I have been working on boats (acronym for Break Out Another Thousand - A lot like GMCs) for years. I have used Gorilla glue to some advantage, but I would not use it in that joint. Gorilla glue foams and swells as it cures. That swelling can have considerable force and so joining thin flexible sections requires effective clamping that would be difficult if not impossible in this case. While I personally hate using 5200, I have to admit that I have had great success with it. Just buy lots of gloves and have a helper that understands his job is to stay clean while you get into the 5200.
If the joint is still largely secure, you might try clearing (we call this raking or reefing a seam) the areas with visible damage. My tools for this were "inherited" but I'm sure that if you think about the tool you need something will come up.
Once clear, you can used gloved fingers to force caulk into the open seam. I left the bead a little proud in my seams because I didn't have a helper to keep things clean while I was filling.
Good Luck
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Gorilla Glue [message #90677 is a reply to message #90662] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 12:54 |
AStasunas
Messages: 58
Registered: April 2009
Location: Winter Springs, Fl
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Matt,
Thanks for the response. I had thought of the swelling as an advantage to seal the joint, but had not thought of the downside. I will rule out Gorilla Glue and probably seal the seam as you suggest.
Thanks Again.
Tony
"Vinnie"
1975 Eleganza,
Winter Springs, Fl
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| Re: Gorilla Glue [message #90703 is a reply to message #90677] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 15:35 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| AStasunas wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 12:54 |
Matt,
Thanks for the response. I had thought of the swelling as an advantage to seal the joint, but had not thought of the downside. I will rule out Gorilla Glue and probably seal the seam as you suggest.
Thanks Again.
Tony
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Mask the surface on both sides of the seam and remove the masking tape as soon as you are done caulking the seam and working the joint. (This will prevent the caulk from spreading all over the surface and having to be cleaned up.) As stated remove it as soon as you are done caulking so it will not become a permanent part of your coach.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gorilla Glue [message #90710 is a reply to message #90703] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 16:12 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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On a similar note on my coach, I had a leaky seam on the Drivers side rear
cap. The PO had sealed it with sillycone sealer and then troweled Bondo over
top of it. It looked like sour owl crap and sealed worse. I had to take a DA
to the bondo and then I used an abrasive wheel that is somewhat like a very
heavy duty scotchbrite material impregnated with abrasive grains. I use them
for chasing rust from areas like drip rails and windshield sealing areas
when the glass is out. After I got through the bondo, then removed the
silicone. If your coach has any silicone sealer on it, make sure you remove
all of it as well as the residue it leaves behind. I used 3M adhesive
remover and it works well. I then placed a 2" strip of blue or green 3M
masking tape on each side of the seam. I then mixed 2 part epoxy putty and
filled the seam. Immediately after spreading the epoxy, I used my finger and
pulled about 1/4th of it back out of the seam, leaving a concave surface. As
soon that was done, I pulled up the tape. When the epoxy is cured, then seal
with a SELF-LEVELING sealer made specifically for joints like this that
expand and contract and move with the coach. SikaFlex makes one but it is
hard to find in the US. Made in Canada I think. There are others on the
market. Expect to pay through the nose for it. I believe one source for it
is rvpartsoutlet.com in Tigard, OR. They ship UPS everywhere. The Owner's
Dad who started the business was a long time GMC owner. It rains a lot in
the NW and so far, no reoccurance of the leak. 2 Years & change. Hope this
is useful.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 1:35 PM, Steve Southworth <midlf@centurytel.net>wrote:
>
>
> AStasunas wrote on Thu, 01 July 2010 12:54
> > Matt,
> >
> > Thanks for the response. I had thought of the swelling as an advantage to
> seal the joint, but had not thought of the downside. I will rule out Gorilla
> Glue and probably seal the seam as you suggest.
> >
> > Thanks Again.
> >
> > Tony
>
>
> Mask the surface on both sides of the seam and remove the masking tape as
> soon as you are done caulking the seam and working the joint. (This will
> prevent the caulk from spreading all over the surface and having to be
> cleaned up.) As stated remove it as soon as you are done caulking so it will
> not become a permanent part of your coach.
>
> --
> Steve Southworth
> 1974 Glacier TZE064V100150
> Palmyra WI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gorilla Glue [message #90720 is a reply to message #90710] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 16:45 |
AStasunas
Messages: 58
Registered: April 2009
Location: Winter Springs, Fl
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Jim,
Thanks for the advice. Regarding self leveling sealant, given that this is not a flat surface overall, but one that rounds down on either end, doesn't the sealant run to those lowest points?
Regards,
Tony
"Vinnie"
1975 Eleganza,
Winter Springs, Fl
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gorilla Glue [message #90726 is a reply to message #90720] |
Thu, 01 July 2010 17:17 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Tony, no the leveling takes place slowly and it stays on a vertical surface
quite well. I went down to my shop and looked up the specific product that I
used. It comes in a standard length caulking tube with a plastic spout that
you cut off to the width seam you want. The product name is Dicor Lap
Sealant, 501 LSW, self leveling lap sealant formulated tor 1/4" & 3/8" bead.
It comes in white and can be painted over after it sets up. It works well
for me.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Anthony Stasunas <AStasunas@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the advice. Regarding self leveling sealant, given that this is
> not a flat surface overall, but one that rounds down on either end, doesn't
> the sealant run to those lowest points?
>
> Regards,
>
> Tony
> --
> 1975 Eleganza,
> Winter Springs, Fl
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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