[GMCnet] Master Cylinder Pushrod Clearance [message #78052] |
Thu, 25 March 2010 21:04 |
Gary Bovee
Messages: 177 Registered: August 2008
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Everybody has done a great job straightening me out on the question of what
should be the master cylinder pushrod length. It seems that there are too
many variables for one size fits all (length of master cylinder pushrod) to
have a specific length listed for any application. We need to make sure we
have the proper length and the clay testing method works easy enough for me
to check that clearance. My next question then is there consensus on what
is the ideal clearance between the pushrod and master cylinder?
Thanks again for everyones input.
Gary Bovee
Red Bluff, CA
78 Royale
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Re: [GMCnet] Master Cylinder Push rod Clearance [message #78055 is a reply to message #78052] |
Thu, 25 March 2010 21:34 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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I tend to agree with Jim around 1/16" should be good. This is something I have dealt with for the past 45 years messing with street rods any time you mix and match master cylinders to hot rods firewalls or different power units and swing pedals you always have to make sure there is a little free play in the rod.
The GMC is no different.
Roy
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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Re: [GMCnet] Master Cylinder Pushrod Clearance [message #78056 is a reply to message #78052] |
Thu, 25 March 2010 21:38 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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On Mar 25, 2010, at 9:04 PM, Gary Bovee wrote:
> Everybody has done a great job straightening me out on the question
> of what
> should be the master cylinder pushrod length. It seems that there
> are too
> many variables for one size fits all (length of master cylinder
> pushrod) to
> have a specific length listed for any application. We need to make
> sure we
> have the proper length and the clay testing method works easy enough
> for me
> to check that clearance. My next question then is there consensus
> on what
> is the ideal clearance between the pushrod and master cylinder?
>
> Thanks again for everyones input.
>
> Gary Bovee
> Red Bluff, CA
> 78 Royale
>
>
Here is something that I had posted a long time back.
> Just for information:
>
> Correct pushrod length is essential to reliable braking. If the
> push rod is too long it causes the master cylinder compensating
> ports to be blocked off, eventually resulting in brake drag. If the
> rod is too short, it will give excessive pedal travel and not use
> the full stroke of the master cylinder which limits the volume of
> fluid going to the wheels.
>
> Here is how you can check it:
>
> 1. Remove the master cylinder cap.
> 2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (SLOWLY AND
> SLIGHTLY). Watch for fluid movement in the master cylinder when the
> pedal is depressed 3/8" to 1/2". This will indicate correct push
> rod length. On dual piston master cylinders, fluid movement may
> occur in the front reservoir only.
> 3. If the pedal travels more than 1/2" before fluid movement is
> noticed, the push rod is too short. If nothing happens no matter
> how far the pedal is depressed, the rod is too long.
> 4. To adjust the rod length, turn the adjustment (if you are using
> an adjustable rod), or replace the rod if its to short,. It its too
> long, either use shims between the booster and the master cylinder
> or grind the rod to make it shorter.
> 5. Install the master cylinder and recheck the rod
> length.>>>>>>>>>>>>
I had posted this back about 2007:
>> I actually made a wooden rod and checked the length with some
>> modeling clay on the master cylinder end. I adjusted the rod
>> length when I had about .015 clearance and then made a steel rod to
>> that length.
When I did this I ground the master cylinder end of the rod to a
"ball" radius. The end of the rod against the booster was left flat
and that is the end that I ground to adjust the length.
So, my findings were that about .015" is enough clearance.
You want to have as long as possible to have more pedal but you have
to have some clearance to allow the ports in the master cylinder to be
covered by the pistons.
1/16" is .0625". My findings indicate that would be too much
clearance. I subsequently did a bit of research on the Internet and
found other data to substantiate the .015" clearance.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
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Re: [GMCnet] Master Cylinder Pushrod Clearance [message #78078 is a reply to message #78056] |
Fri, 26 March 2010 12:18 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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A couple of people has off-net asked me to give them references from
the net that would agree with my statement that .015 inches of pushrod
clearance is sufficient.
Here is one that says .1mm to .5mm. That is .004" to .02" That site
has a very good explanation on the operation of the booster.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf
The second site that I looked at also says a max of .02"
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/15.htm
I looked at a couple more sites and found similar numbers.
HOWEVER, if I were to look a lot more I probably would find one that
recommends 1/16" clearance. That certainly won't hurt anything but it
would give a little less "pedal" stroke on the brake pedal.
I have used .015 " for a few years now and have good brakes.
Emery Stora
>>
>>
>>
> Here is something that I had posted a long time back.
>> Just for information:
>>
>> Correct pushrod length is essential to reliable braking. If the
>> push rod is too long it causes the master cylinder compensating
>> ports to be blocked off, eventually resulting in brake drag. If the
>> rod is too short, it will give excessive pedal travel and not use
>> the full stroke of the master cylinder which limits the volume of
>> fluid going to the wheels.
>>
>> Here is how you can check it:
>>
>> 1. Remove the master cylinder cap.
>> 2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal (SLOWLY AND
>> SLIGHTLY). Watch for fluid movement in the master cylinder when the
>> pedal is depressed 3/8" to 1/2". This will indicate correct push
>> rod length. On dual piston master cylinders, fluid movement may
>> occur in the front reservoir only.
>> 3. If the pedal travels more than 1/2" before fluid movement is
>> noticed, the push rod is too short. If nothing happens no matter
>> how far the pedal is depressed, the rod is too long.
>> 4. To adjust the rod length, turn the adjustment (if you are using
>> an adjustable rod), or replace the rod if its to short,. It its too
>> long, either use shims between the booster and the master cylinder
>> or grind the rod to make it shorter.
>> 5. Install the master cylinder and recheck the rod
>> length.>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> I had posted this back about 2007:
>
>>> I actually made a wooden rod and checked the length with some
>>> modeling clay on the master cylinder end. I adjusted the rod
>>> length when I had about .015 clearance and then made a steel rod to
>>> that length.
>
> When I did this I ground the master cylinder end of the rod to a
> "ball" radius. The end of the rod against the booster was left flat
> and that is the end that I ground to adjust the length.
>
> So, my findings were that about .015" is enough clearance.
> You want to have as long as possible to have more pedal but you have
> to have some clearance to allow the ports in the master cylinder to be
> covered by the pistons.
> 1/16" is .0625". My findings indicate that would be too much
> clearance. I subsequently did a bit of research on the Internet and
> found other data to substantiate the .015" clearance.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
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