| Transmission Rigging [message #69626] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 16:32  |
LYNN L
Messages: 140
Registered: March 2005
Location: Pearland TX.
Karma: 0
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I saw a picture somewhere of the chain rigging used to remove and lift the trans and final drive. I"ve got to remove mine and send it to Manny. I think the picture was taken at a rally somewhere. Does anyone know where I can get a copy? I searched the photo site with no luck.
Thanks Lynn
Lynn L
76 Eleganza Cad.500
Pearland TX.
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| Re: Transmission Rigging [message #69633 is a reply to message #69626] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 18:38  |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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Rigging this way works "OK" to get it out. Not to get it back in. Coming fresh of of this, Some things I'd do next time.
1. Only raise the coach enough to work under it to unhook everything to drop the tranny, then raise to 21.5 inches at the crossmember to get the tranny past it.
2. After sliding the new tranny in, lower the coach back to a quasi-level state. the more level the coach is, the easier it is to get the tranny up there. You only have about a 1/2 inch of wiggle room fore-aft.
3. John Ruff and I used a pallet jack (from the side) and a succession of blocks to raise-set-raise-set the tranny up behind the engine. this made life easier. The reason we did this is that the pallet jack wasn't long enough. Trying to lift it with the hoist and strap was futile. You cannot place the straps to balance the transmission/Final drive assy and clear the engine. You get one or the other.
4. Use an air ratchet to remove the rear motor mount bolts. You will commit suicide if you try to use a regular ratchet. Glad I had one.
5. Have a good magnet handy to retrieve any bolts lost in the rear crossmember when you take the rear motor mount off. Make sure your socket is on the extension tightly or tape it.
6. Halfway through this thing I figured out how it would be actually easier to do this on the roadside. You can dig a trench to get the tranny out!!!!
Other notes:
A 3.21 Final Drive has a smaller front mount tube. The 3.07 bolt will not fit. Go one size down. buy a grade 8 bolt.
A long strap wrench is handy to turn the front pulley to turn the crank. Wish I had one.
Order new CV joint flange bolts before you start. they also require a 12-pt socket. you cannot tell this until you get all the crud off of them.
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69637 is a reply to message #69630] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 19:32 |
LYNN L
Messages: 140
Registered: March 2005
Location: Pearland TX.
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken, that looks like it will work but is not the photo I saw. I believe the picture I saw was one of Mannys rigs. He used much smaller chains and had them attached at several places to completely balance the trans. The last time I had it down to repair the rear sprockets and chain cover, I lowered it with a trans jack and almost lost it. All repairs were done after I slid it off the jack and still under the RV. After putting the rear cover back on I had to lift it by myself onto a floor jack while under the RV and balance it. I"ll never pull that dumb stunt again. Chris has a good idea on lowering the coach down low before raising it back in. Lifting it from the top sure looks like the best way for a one man operation.
Lynn L
76 Eleganza Cad.500
Pearland TX.
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| Re: Transmission Rigging [message #69655 is a reply to message #69626] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 21:58 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Lowering the coach really helped A LOT!
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69657 is a reply to message #69637] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 22:16 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| LYNN LAYCOCK wrote on Mon, 04 January 2010 19:32 |
Ken, that looks like it will work but is not the photo I saw. I believe the picture I saw was one of Mannys rigs. He used much smaller chains and had them attached at several places to completely balance the trans. The last time I had it down to repair the rear sprockets and chain cover, I lowered it with a trans jack and almost lost it. All repairs were done after I slid it off the jack and still under the RV. After putting the rear cover back on I had to lift it by myself onto a floor jack while under the RV and balance it. I"ll never pull that dumb stunt again. Chris has a good idea on lowering the coach down low before raising it back in. Lifting it from the top sure looks like the best way for a one man operation.
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I would not even attempt it with one man from the top hanging on some chains. Geting the tilt and positioning would be next impossible with all the weight hanging out there off centered.
Get yourself one of these ang put it on your floor jack.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39152
I drag it under the coach and place it near were I want it to be. Then I roll it on to the floor jack. The adapter for the floor jack has chains on it to secure it solidly to the jack while you are installing the trans.
Also in my opinion it is easier to install the final driive first and then install the rtransmission..
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69661 is a reply to message #69642] |
Mon, 04 January 2010 22:22 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I hate to tell you this, but I did the tranny using a write-up
you posted several
years ago. I made notes of a few things I did differently, but
mostly followed
your instructions. Of course, after repeating the task twice
more within five
days, I had it pretty well down. Recovery time was only a couple
of months.
Gary Kosier
77EII & 77PB
Newark, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Henderson" <ken0henderson@gmail.com>
To: "gmclist" <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging
> What we REALLY need is to get Manny to give us a hands-on
> demonstration at a
> rally. I've even been parked right next to him doing it, but
> missed about
> 90% of the operation which he did almost unaided. Somebody(s)
> is going to
> have to rush around with a camera to keep up with him. :-)
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 8:32 PM, LYNN LAYCOCK <lynn_sr@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Ken, that looks like it will work but is not the photo I
>> saw...
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69678 is a reply to message #69657] |
Tue, 05 January 2010 09:24 |
LYNN L
Messages: 140
Registered: March 2005
Location: Pearland TX.
Karma: 0
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Ken B. That rig would take a lot of overhead room and is not possible for me to lift the RV that high. I stay away from Harbor freight now days unless I"m purchasing something non- life threatning if it fails. I bought one of their trans jacks the first time I removed it but the linkage had so much play that the trans fell against the frame and hung there by itself, (thank the man above for that) or I would have been in trouble. The quality of their products proves the old adage about getting what you pay for!!
Lynn L
76 Eleganza Cad.500
Pearland TX.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69681 is a reply to message #69657] |
Tue, 05 January 2010 12:06 |
bumpersticker
Messages: 60
Registered: February 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Karma: 0
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I have assisted Manny in several transmission R&Rs. The secret is to separate
the final drive, support it by tying it to the frame/engine. Then it's possable to balance the trans by using a chain wrap similar to the photos. I would prefer to use a strap system but that would require fabricating the straps. I don't have the facilities to make the necessary straps.
Bob Cook
78 Birchaven
75 Avion (In work)
Redondo Beach, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69696 is a reply to message #69678] |
Tue, 05 January 2010 16:15 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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You do not need to jack the coach any higher. You slide the trans under the coach on a piece of card board and then you roll the trans on to the jack. A trans jack is what we used on mine both times we removed it.
The trans is not that heavy two of us can lift and move one. Now if you assemble it with the final drive attached we are talking a different story.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Transmission Rigging [message #69708 is a reply to message #69626] |
Tue, 05 January 2010 17:40 |
LYNN L
Messages: 140
Registered: March 2005
Location: Pearland TX.
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Yep, it"s a heavy sucker when the final drive is still attached. Now that I"ve passed 70 yrs, playing at stupid is no longer in my bag of tricks. I understand how you did it now but Rigging it to lift allows one person to do most of the job from inside without all those trips to adjust the jack. Thanks for all the suggestions on this to everyone. I feel less stupid already??
Lynn L
76 Eleganza Cad.500
Pearland TX.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Transmission Rigging [message #69712 is a reply to message #69626] |
Tue, 05 January 2010 17:55 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Manny removes the trans. by itself so he uses a lighter chain that
hooks onto the inspection plate of the trans.
Not very many people can do it that way as it is a trick to mate the
trans and final at the same time.
Our guys attach the final to the trans. first then pull it up together
and drop the final with the trans.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:32 PM, LYNN LAYCOCK <lynn_sr@msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> I saw a picture somewhere of the chain rigging used to remove and lift the trans and final drive. I"ve got to remove mine and send it to Manny. I think the picture was taken at a rally somewhere. Does anyone know where I can get a copy? I searched the photo site with no luck.
> Thanks Lynn
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: Transmission Rigging [message #69790 is a reply to message #69626] |
Wed, 06 January 2010 11:27 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Of the two schools of thought, I think raising both as a unit seems to be the more prevalant way. I chose this method after looking at what bolts would be hard to get to. If you have access to a pallet jack, the nice flat surface makes it easy to lift into the coach. I didn't take any photos as the camera was dead. Didn't even get one of John under the coach!!!
-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: Transmission Rigging [message #69879 is a reply to message #69790] |
Thu, 07 January 2010 04:01 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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The same bolts have to go in whether the final drive is attached before trans installation or after. Manny only drops the trans without the final drive attached. I have done it both ways. It is much easier to drop only the trans if that is all you are working on.
After jacking the coach and removing the wheel liners, 1.5 hours to get it out and 2.5 to get it back in.
Ken B. "using WiFi on Amtrak NYC to Chicago"
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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