Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Update On My Faded Brakes
| Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68906] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 12:39  |
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WD0AFQ
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
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I am also visiting with Jim K. and Ken B. on this problem.
Now, I start engine to build up vacuum. Kill it. Go wiggle the check valve and can hear air. This for 3-4 minutes, just enough to hear air then I stop. Did it twice and heard a little air seep out. 3rd time no vacuum left and I mean I only let enough seep out for me to hear.
The brake pedal, with engine running, goes down 4 inches and I hear the hiss sound as it travels. At 4 inch of travel it stops and is hard, still way up off the floor.
With the engine not running the brake pedal travel is identical 4 inches but no hiss, still way yp off the floor.
I can not move the coach for a day or two to check temps on the hubs.
Thanks,
Dan
3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers
One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm
355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng.
Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System
Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows
Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
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| Re: Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68909 is a reply to message #68906] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 13:47  |
rwbmitiopt@comcast.net
Messages: 189
Registered: April 2005
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Dan
I'm curious, how much engine vac do you show at idle and at cruising? How often does your electric vac pump run when you are driving down the road? My reason for asking is that my pump runs every few minutes depending on the grade etc. My manifold vac is approx 15" when cruising on the flat. Don't know if I have a leak or just low manifold vac?
Randy
| WD0AFQ wrote on Wed, 30 December 2009 10:39 |
I am also visiting with Jim K. and Ken B. on this problem.
Now, I start engine to build up vacuum. Kill it. Go wiggle the check valve and can hear air. This for 3-4 minutes, just enough to hear air then I stop. Did it twice and heard a little air seep out. 3rd time no vacuum left and I mean I only let enough seep out for me to hear.
The brake pedal, with engine running, goes down 4 inches and I hear the hiss sound as it travels. At 4 inch of travel it stops and is hard, still way up off the floor.
With the engine not running the brake pedal travel is identical 4 inches but no hiss, still way yp off the floor.
I can not move the coach for a day or two to check temps on the hubs.
Thanks,
Dan
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Randall Burns
Sammamish WA
75 EX GB
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68913 is a reply to message #68911] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 14:17 |
rwbmitiopt@comcast.net
Messages: 189
Registered: April 2005
Karma: 0
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Gene
The pump I have is one Terry S got at the mens mall. It is a Nissan brand I think?? It is plumbed with a T connection.
I know I don't ride with my foot on the brake because I feel the vibration of the pump through the floor on my left foot, the right is on the gas pedal.
Randy
Mr ERFisher wrote on Wed, 30 December 2009 11:54
Your pump should not come on with the engine running unless your foot is on
the brakes..... and 15 in is a lot.
what pump do you have and how is it plumbed? - series or T connection
gene
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
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Randall Burns
Sammamish WA
75 EX GB
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68939 is a reply to message #68938] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 18:05 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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so
if you sit with the ignition on, but the engine off, the pump comes on every
3 min ??
you can test the diaphram in the pump by holding your finger over the
suction input. If the pump stays off then it is the booster........
if it still cycles ever 3 min, it is the pump diaphragm, and there are no
more of those.
gene
gene
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I still need assistance on my brakes.
> Here is my thinking at the moment.
> The check valve is good. So, if it is good, a leaking line would not be the
> problem, am I right? Once the pump builds up vacuum it can not get out
> through the line as long as the check valve holds, right?
> So, I am back to the brake booster since I am losing my vacuum from the
> booster in about 3 minutes.
> Help me out here.
> Thanks,
> Dan
> --
> Dan & Teri Gregg
>
> danandteri.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> ///Halon Automatic Fire Extinguishers
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68946 is a reply to message #68938] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 18:27 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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""I still need assistance on my brakes.
Here is my thinking at the moment.
The check valve is good. So, if it is good, a leaking line would not be the problem, am I right? Once the pump builds up vacuum it can not get out through the line as long as the check valve holds, right?
So, I am back to the brake booster since I am losing my vacuum from the booster in about 3 minutes.
Help me out here.""
If the check valve is OK and it is not leaking in the opening, you should retain vacuum literally for months. It does sound like you have a leak somewhere in the booster, so that needs to be taken care of anyway--I still suspect the rears may need adjusting as well.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68960 is a reply to message #68940] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 19:22 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Dan,
I checked you blog and your tracking device and it appears you are in
Duncan, AZ.
As I see it you have three choices:
1) Continue to trouble shoot / fix the problem where you are on your own.
2) Head down to Steve's home and get his assistance (151 mi / 2hr 33 min).
3) Continue on to Quartszite (334 mi / 5 hr 30 min) and fix it there.
Option 1) It appears in light of "I hate messing with brakes and profess not
to be a mechanic." This doesn't come to high on the list!
Option 2) Looking at the Aerial View in Map Quest it appears that the roads
run next to "high ground" and Steve will definetly be able to help you fix
this!
Option 3) It's twice the distance to Quartzsite as to Sierra Vista and
you'll have to go through Phoenix! Do you really want to do that with dodgey
brakes?
Whichever option you select PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!!!
Rob "playing Devil's advocate" Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dan Gregg
Sent: Thursday, 31 December 2009 11:17 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes
I forgot to mention that I took the pump off back in Texas to make sure that
it was not my problem, or one of its associated lines.
Now, do you think it might be the booster, with all of the information that
I have given yall? I hate messing with brakes and profess not to be a
mechanic.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
danandteri.blogspot.com
///Halon Automatic Fire Extinguishers
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68961 is a reply to message #68957] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 19:22 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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The booster is working. If it stays down, it's not leaking -- so the book
says.
How do you know the vacuum is leaking off in 3 minutes?
With the booster helping you that much, it's probably NOT your immediate
problem, even if it does have a small leak.
Ken H.
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 8:19 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ken, I pushed petal down, started engine, it went down another inch, turned
> engine off, it stayed right there.
> What is that telling you?
> Dan
> --
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #68980 is a reply to message #68973] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 21:19 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Have you already jacked up a front and a rear wheel and tried turning them
with the brakes applied? I'm not sure that will tell you much because even
a little line pressure will create more force than you can overcome. But if
one system is completely shot, it may tell you that.
The problem almost has to be in the MC at this point, it seems to me. Did
you test the brake warning switch on the combination valve to be sure it's
not closed without operating the light? If one side of the MC is completely
shot, that switch should be closed.
I could mail you my line pressure gauge tomorrow AM & you'd probably receive
it the next day -- surely the second. It screws into the bleeder valve,
using one of several adapters, so it's very easy to use. MAYBE you could
find a store or shop there with one?
One thing you can do, failing all the above, is have Teri hold the brake
pedal down firmly while you open a bleeder valve, first on the front, then
on the rear. You may be able to judge from the force of the squirt if one
system is badly shot.
No matter what the popular opinion is, I installed a <$30 AZ MC on the X-PB
to get it home from TN; it's still working fine at least 5000 miles later.
At that, it's worth a "modern" troubleshooting method.
Wish I was there -- with the right tools.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 9:47 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ok Ken. So, do you think my next step is to run down the road far enough to
> heat up the brakes and shoot them with my infrared therm? If so, what part
> do I put the gun on? I have alcoas. Should I shoot the rear brakes through
> one of the holes as to hit the outside of the drum? What about the fronts,
> where do I try to take the temp?
> Its been an hour and half. I pulled the check valve and no vacuum. I know
> it has none after 3 minutes because I pulled the check valve earlier today.
> But, I know there is vacuum in there when the engine is running so I should
> have brakes. And, it passed the test Ken gave me from the manual.
> Don't forget me out here now. It is a good ways to Steve's and there are
> hills heading that way. I can not get to Quartzsite because of the
> Globe/Superior mountain. No way I would make it down that thing like it is.
> Thanks for the help Rob. It looks like I will have to do the work myself.
> Yes, the tracker is working and you have us pegged right on.
> Dan
> --
> Dan & Teri Gregg
>
> danandteri.blogspot.com
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update On My Faded Brakes [message #69001 is a reply to message #68998] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 23:54 |
GMCNUSA
Messages: 283
Registered: August 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken, I am lost now. I don't know enough to tackle this.
I have adjusted drum brakes all my life with a screwdriver. All I need to figure out is which way to move the adjuster when I get my screwdriver in the slot.
That is about all I can figure at this point, with everything yall have told me.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan,
The screwdriver goes in the slot in the backing plate with the handle high, then pull down when you feel the tip in the star wheel. As you tighten the brakes turn the wheel after each adjustment to check how much drag is on the drum.
Remember the jack stands, safety always. Keep us informed.
Have you checked for a close Black Lister who is a mechanic?
Good luck.
Larry Dilk
Indianapolis, IN
76 Eleganza II
Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
Just LOVE It!
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| adjusting rear brakes [message #69005 is a reply to message #69001] |
Thu, 31 December 2009 00:10 |
bukzin
Messages: 840
Registered: April 2004
Location: North California
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Some thoughts on that adjustment.
It is very do-able with a straight blade screw driver.
If you have not done it before I think it may take
approx. 20 mins for the first one. Maybe 5 mins each
for the remaining 3 wheels.
It is simple. It is important.
Good luck!
Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
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