| [GMCnet] timing motor [message #68880] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 09:44  |
gmc gmc
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
Karma: 0
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Hi all. I reply to Jim and others when we get time. but thanks Jim and all.
Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites and
even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing. Is
there a link to tips on this matter? if not he asked where is piston #1
located? and what is +- degrees I guess? what else we need to know? how is
easiest way to do this?
thanks all appreciate it.
Mike and Steph
ps. Brake light came on, added fluid to chamber in front, light off, after
some city driving light on, added 3/8 inch or so. after a bit driving light
on again. I will check this am and see. hummmm
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| Re: [GMCnet] timing motor [message #68884 is a reply to message #68881] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 10:05  |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Your timing problem is probably at the distributor.
The mechanical part is jamed up with hardened grease at the rotational shaft.
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 7:58 AM, Mr.erf ERFisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com> wrote:
> Â Is
>
>> there a link to tips on this matter?
>
>
> here are a few
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html
>
>
>>
>
> and here for timing
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#curve
>
> and then there is always the shop manual
> good luck
> gene
>
> On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 7:44 AM, gmc gmc <gmc@derr.ws> wrote:
>
>> Hi all. I reply to Jim and others when we get time. but thanks Jim and all.
>>
>> Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
>> takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
>> me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites
>> and
>> even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing. Is
>> there a link to tips on this matter? if not he asked where is piston #1
>> located? and what is +- degrees I guess? what else we need to know? how is
>> easiest way to do this?
>>
>> thanks all appreciate it.
>>
>> Mike and Steph
>>
>> ps. Brake light came on, added fluid to chamber in front, light off, after
>> some city driving light on, added 3/8 inch or so. after a bit driving light
>> on again. I will check this am and see. Â hummmm
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
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jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] timing motor [message #68892 is a reply to message #68881] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 10:43 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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""Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
> takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
> me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites
> and
> even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing""
I fought a hard cranking problem many years ago. Checked everything. I finally discovered that my centrifugal advance was stuck in the advanced state. Even though I had mild pinging under some circumstances, it wasn't all that bad (I think the 403's aren't as prone to ping with excessive timing as the 455's are)
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] timing motor [message #68893 is a reply to message #68892] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 10:47 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Bob,
We work on these every day and your correct, but it is because the 403
are ewer and generally less miles on them.
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 8:43 AM, Bob de Kruyff <NEXT2POOL@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> ""Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
>> takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
>> me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites
>> and
>> even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing""
>
> I fought a hard cranking problem many years ago. Checked everything. I finally discovered that my centrifugal advance was stuck in the advanced state. Even though I had mild pinging under some circumstances, it wasn't all that bad (I think the 403's aren't as prone to ping with excessive timing as the 455's are)
> --
> Bob de Kruyff
> 78 Eleganza
> Chandler, AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] timing motor [message #68949 is a reply to message #68880] |
Wed, 30 December 2009 18:36 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Mike,
Does it take the 2-3 cranks all the time or only when it's hot? If it's only
when it's hot then I could be that the fuel has boiled out of the carb.
Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of gmc gmc
Sent: Thursday, 31 December 2009 2:44 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] timing motor
Hi all. I reply to Jim and others when we get time. but thanks Jim and all.
Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites and
even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing. Is
there a link to tips on this matter? if not he asked where is piston #1
located? and what is +- degrees I guess? what else we need to know? how is
easiest way to do this?
thanks all appreciate it.
Mike and Steph
ps. Brake light came on, added fluid to chamber in front, light off, after
some city driving light on, added 3/8 inch or so. after a bit driving light
on again. I will check this am and see. hummmm
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] timing motor [message #69029 is a reply to message #68880] |
Thu, 31 December 2009 05:00 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| gmc gmc wrote on Wed, 30 December 2009 09:44 |
Hi all. I reply to Jim and others when we get time. but thanks Jim and all.
Friend here near Houston and I might try to time motor later. On start it
takes a hard crank or 2 or 3 to get it fired. Alternator guy other day told
me that is hard on battery and starter. I tried to search some GMC sites and even maillist but was unable to find tips and tricks to doing timing. Is there a link to tips on this matter? if not he asked where is piston #1 located? and what is +- degrees I guess? what else we need to know? how is easiest way to do this?
thanks all appreciate it.
Mike and Steph
|
There usually is no reason to change the timing once it is set unless you have removed / turned the distributor. If you have timing problems I would look for the cause and correct it before actually setting timing the timing. I would pull the distributor cap (4 screws) and the rotor (2 screws) and inspect the mechanical advance which is located right below the rotor.
Twist it by hand while observing the weights and springs. Look for binding weights and rust on the pivots. If they are OK put one drop of oil on each pivot and reinstall the rotor.
Then remove the vacuum hose from the distributor and suck on the hose to see it the vacuum pot holds a vacuum and if you can get it to move the bottom plate. If the plate moves you are done. Reinstall the cap.
Now the actual timing. The hardest thing to do is to see the timing mark if you have the original horse collar installed around the fan. Get a small white paint brush or even a tube of white out. Crawl under the coach and look up at the harmonic balancer for the scribed line. If you can not see it, turn the engine over and look again. When you find the line paint it white. You are done under there.
Go back up top and remove the hatch cover. You are going to be looking straight down all the way up front on the engine. With the cover out of the way makes it easier to get up there and see. #1 cylinder is the front one on the driver's side.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor and plug the hose with anything from a screw to a pencil to a piece of tape.
Find a wrench that fits the hold down bolt on the distributor and break the bolt loose and re-tighten lightly.
Hook up the timing light to #1 and power and you are ready to go. Start the engine and get it to idle as slow as practical 600 to 700 rpm is great. Look down the front of the engine with the timing light. When you find the white stripe check it against the degree indicator next to it. If it is at the wrong setting loosen the distributor hold down bolt and slightly twist the distributor until you have it set where you want it. Tighten the bolt, recheck the setting and you are done.
Do not forget to hook up the vacuum line to the distributor again.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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