| torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 10:45  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Some of you may know Rich Sowers. He is in my yard right now removing the front clip from the parts GMC.
He has removed the bolt from the pork chop but there is still tension on the torsion bar.
We are pondering what will happen if we cut the torsion bar. I have a cut off wheel but we are concerned about what sort of violent reaction might take place when it comes loose.
I'll be cchecking back here periodically but if someone has some real insight don't hesitate to call-
252-339-6396
Thanks
Dave
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68471 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 11:48  |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Part Deux....
Within minutes of the above posting Manny called with specific instructions.
Unfortunately, the frame adjacent to the end of the torsion bar is rotted in such a way as to make that method unsafe.
Second choice is to cut the torsion bar.
But what will happen? Has anyone done this? There is apparently still some tension on it.
I envision it snapping and rotating violently, taking the angle grinder/cutoff wheel with it and busting through human apendages.
Any insight would be most welcome.
252-339-6396
thanks
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68472 is a reply to message #68471] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 12:07 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
""But what will happen? Has anyone done this? There is apparently still some tension on it.
I envision it snapping and rotating violently, taking the angle grinder/cutoff wheel with it and busting through human apendages. ""
Can you let the front control arm go all the way into rebound (down) to get the remaining tension off. You may have to disconnect the shock to let it drop or even disconnect the ball joint. I wouldn't try to cut anything unless all the tension is off. I suppose you could unbolt the lower control arm at the bushings.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68473 is a reply to message #68471] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 12:08 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dave,
I've never cut a torsion bar, but, I don't think it would be too violent since they are of course loaded in torsion, and not like a conventional coil spring (which can fly with lethal force). I would think once you get 1/2 or 2/3 of the way through it, it would snap the rest of the way. There's definitely some potential for some lateral "whipping" but the sockets on either end are fairly long, and I would think would keep it from flying around too much. (I don't believe it would come lose at either end, only the cut parts would be moving around.
Having said all that, GMC torsion bars are a little rare, and there must be a better way. Not clear to me if the clip is separated from the motorhome yet or not. If not, put a jack under the control arm, jack it up part way (to secure the lower control arm, and take some but not all tension off the ball joint) take the cotter key and nut off, either use 2 hammers or a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the ball joint, and lower the jack and your done, in maybe 20 minutes.
If you don't have the weight of the coach to help hold everything together (now worried abou the front clip flying or a-arm slipping when the ball joint separates) you could probably jack it up and wrap a chain around the lower control arm and up to the frame, and then separate the ball joint.
Just a couple of alternatives
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68483 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 13:06 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dave, do it right. disconnect the steering knucle and shock to allow the lower control arm to swing all the way down, tension removed.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68491 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 14:02 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Yeah undo it the natural way by letting the tip of the A arm be jacked down. Don't take out the control arm bushing bolts as the bar will still be wound up and that will probably want to send the inboard end upwards into the frame. Keep all your fingers in the process.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68493 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 14:17 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I had one of the GMC repair shops tell me that they routinely remove the torsion bars using Bob D.'s description. He said it was much quicker and when they put it back together everything was automatically in adjustment.
Undo the shock, jack it up, and pull the bar.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68494 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 14:18 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hang onto the pork chops also as they are very expensive to replace if
you ever need one. The torsion bars are a rare replacement item also
and expensive also.
J.R. Wright
On Dec 27, 2009, at 11:45 AM, dave silva wrote:
>
>
> Some of you may know Rich Sowers. He is in my yard right now
> removing the front clip from the parts GMC.
>
> He has removed the bolt from the pork chop but there is still
> tension on the torsion bar.
>
> We are pondering what will happen if we cut the torsion bar. I have
> a cut off wheel but we are concerned about what sort of violent
> reaction might take place when it comes loose.
>
> I'll be cchecking back here periodically but if someone has some
> real insight don't hesitate to call-
>
> 252-339-6396
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
>
> --
> 1972 Revcon 250- the other front wheel drive motorhome. http://www.davesilva.com/revcon
> Parting out 1974 GMC 26- http://www.davesilva.com/gmc
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68525 is a reply to message #68462] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 17:22 |
hertfordnc
Messages: 1164
Registered: September 2009
Location: East NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
THanks for all the info. Let me tell you how it went.
First of all, this is not my project. I've been paid for the drive train and the poor fellow has made several trips here form about 200 miles away to remove stuff. it's terribly muddy, this being the wettest winter in years.
Too bad about the torsion bars. THey are history.
Rust and rot at both ends of the torsion bars made it difficult and unsafe to remove them properly. I used a cutoff wheel. It was not terrbly violent but I was prudent. I lashed the grinder (Hitachi, very light) to a 2X4 and cut from a few feet away. When the first one popped it did mangle the cuttoff well so i was glad my hands were clear. There would be some small potential for injury. I changed wheels and cut the other one.
The other thing we learned is that Uhaul does not rent anything that will fit the front clip of a GMC coach.
It's been a long day.
Dave
Dave & Ellen Silva
Hertford, NC
76 Birchaven, 1-ton and other stuff
Currently planning the Great american Road Trip Summer 2021
It's gonna take a lot of Adderall to get this thing right.
|
|
|
|
| Re: torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68526 is a reply to message #68525] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 17:31 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
>The other thing we learned is that U-haul does not rent anything that will fit the front clip of a GMC coach.
I don't think U-Haul rents them, but I'm thinking a snowmobile trailer might be something that would work. (low, with the wheels under a flat bed and no railings. Might want to check the weight capacity. Around here, the independent rental places and tool rental places usually have them.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68560 is a reply to message #68553] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 21:18 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Just hit me what a dumb answer I gave earlier suggesting contact with Rick
about his "rear clip". For some reason I was thinking of the front
fiberglass cap. Even though I know Richard bought the frame clip. (Mac,
that includes everything forward of the frame bolts just behind the front
wheels that's involved in making the coach move. The wheels, axles,
radiator, engine, transmission, final drive, etc., are all one assembly that
can be rolled out. Like mine:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8978&cat=3791 )
I don't think any car has a track as wide as the 75.28" of the GMC; even the
widest truck I could find is 73.6", most are <70".
When I hauled mine, I had a farm tractor flatbed and even on it I had to
load the clip with its wheels behind the trailers'. Luckily I had something
like 4 engines, 6 transmissions & 7 final drives ahead of and between the
wheels to counterbalance it.
If I were Richard I'd be looking for a flatbed trailer and a way to jack the
clip high enough to roll the trailer under it. Or removing the good stuff
and letting you have the frame to go to in the scrap metal pile. :-)
Ken H.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68562 is a reply to message #68560] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 21:48 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Let's see. The entire front end of my assembled coach is around 4000 pounds, so the front clip weighs considerably less than that. I haul my John Deere around on a 4 wheel trailer and it must weight around 8,000 pounds or more depending on what attachments are on it. The 4 wheel trailer is rated at 11,000 GVW but that includes the weight of the trailer. Based on all of that I would say a decent 2 wheel trailer or just about any 4 wheel trailer ought to do the job.
Where does it need to hauled from and to?
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] torsion bar de-tensioning- front clip removal - [message #68565 is a reply to message #68562] |
Sun, 27 December 2009 22:03 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken,
The problem's not the weight, which is probably <2000#, it's the width.
For ease of loading, the clip needs to be rolled aboard on its own wheels,
which means the bed must be at least 6' wide (which requires the tires to
hang over the sides) and have at least 76" between the wheel wells or other
obstructions.
Ken H.
On Sun, Dec 27, 2009 at 10:48 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
> Let's see. The entire front end of my assembled coach is around 4000
> pounds, so the front clip weighs considerably less than that. I haul my
> John Deere around on a 4 wheel trailer and it must weight around 8,000
> pounds or more depending on what attachments are on it. The 4 wheel trailer
> is rated at 11,000 GVW but that includes the weight of the trailer. Based
> on all of that I would say a decent 2 wheel trailer or just about any 4
> wheel trailer ought to do the job.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
