Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach?
| [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64773] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 13:09  |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
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We followed the instructions in the manual to the letter yesterday
for jacking up the front of the coach, and it was *really* bad!
The front bumper ended up pointing disturbingly skyward, and on one side,
oil started leaking out of the bumper shock cylinder!
We initially started with a floor jack, but it couldn't go high enough
to lift the front wheels. We then used the stock GMC jack and chain
per instruction, but man was it scary! This can not be right!!
I can only assume that now we'll have to do something about those
bumper shocks too. Sheesh!
Karen
1973 23' Patience Tester
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64778 is a reply to message #64773] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 13:48  |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
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KB writes...
> We followed the instructions in the manual to the letter yesterday
> for jacking up the front of the coach, and it was *really* bad!
Not too many folks use that stock jack. It just wasn't the GMC's
strong point, so to speak.
I jack up the front of my coach using a 3-1/2-ton floor jack, with the
jack placed right in the middle of the main crossmember that goes
under the front of the engine. Lifting the whole front at once
eliminates a lot of potential problems. Then, I place appropriate jack
stands (good quality and rated at a minimum of 2 tons each) under the
crossmember to support the coach and lower it down on them before
working under there.
There are jack hooks that will hook into the frame behind a front
wheel and provide a means of jacking up one front wheel using a bottle
jack. Dig around in Bdub's supplier list.
The floor jack works great for doing work at home but it's far too big
and heavy to haul around. Lifting the front on the road? Only if I
have a level spot to park and then I'll figure something out with a
bottle jack. Good Sam is always an option in that situation. I try to
maintain the coach sufficiently not to need that, but stuff happens.
Rick "who would never lift the coach by the bumper" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64784 is a reply to message #64778] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 14:15 |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
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| Rick Denney wrote on Wed, 18 November 2009 11:48 |
KB writes...
> We followed the instructions in the manual to the letter yesterday
> for jacking up the front of the coach, and it was *really* bad!
There are jack hooks that will hook into the frame behind a front
wheel and provide a means of jacking up one front wheel using a bottle
jack. Dig around in Bdub's supplier list.
Rick "who would never lift the coach by the bumper" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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Bob Rosenburg's jack hook is very good, and now Jimmy K at Applied GMC is handling them, so you can go to Jim for it. I found it worked very well, front and back. Some have reservations about using it on the front due to windshield cracking, but I never had an issue.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64787 is a reply to message #64778] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 14:24 |
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I have a 3. ton shop jack as well which will lift up to 24 inches, its a heave SOB, 8 ounces under 100 lbs! however it does break down and can be stored under the dinette seats or bunks easily. but one must bend at the knees when lifting it...
| Rick Denney wrote on Wed, 18 November 2009 13:48 |
KB writes...
> We followed the instructions in the manual to the letter yesterday
> for jacking up the front of the coach, and it was *really* bad!
Not too many folks use that stock jack. It just wasn't the GMC's
strong point, so to speak.
I jack up the front of my coach using a 3-1/2-ton floor jack, with the
jack placed right in the middle of the main crossmember that goes
under the front of the engine. Lifting the whole front at once
eliminates a lot of potential problems. Then, I place appropriate jack
stands (good quality and rated at a minimum of 2 tons each) under the
crossmember to support the coach and lower it down on them before
working under there.
There are jack hooks that will hook into the frame behind a front
wheel and provide a means of jacking up one front wheel using a bottle
jack. Dig around in Bdub's supplier list.
The floor jack works great for doing work at home but it's far too big
and heavy to haul around. Lifting the front on the road? Only if I
have a level spot to park and then I'll figure something out with a
bottle jack. Good Sam is always an option in that situation. I try to
maintain the coach sufficiently not to need that, but stuff happens.
Rick "who would never lift the coach by the bumper" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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73 Canyon Lands, (a.k.a. The Yellow Submarine) West Los Angeles CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64809 is a reply to message #64791] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 16:48 |
Mitch
Messages: 272
Registered: May 2009
Location: Tacoma, Wa
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What about an hydraulic jack to the main frame aft of the front wheels?
Mitch
Tacoma, Wa.
'80 Spitfire
'03 Windstar
'77 Jaguar XJ6-C
X(very)'76 PB 26 "The Beast"
Where it rains, always.
It's wet, No sun, Gray.
Go to Oregon.
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64839 is a reply to message #64778] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 20:20 |
Chr$
Messages: 2690
Registered: January 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Karma: 1
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I do exactly what Rick does with exactly the same equipment. For my transmission swap, I may use the forklift, however... 
| Rick Denney wrote on Wed, 18 November 2009 12:48 |
KB writes...
> We followed the instructions in the manual to the letter yesterday
> for jacking up the front of the coach, and it was *really* bad!
Not too many folks use that stock jack. It just wasn't the GMC's
strong point, so to speak.
I jack up the front of my coach using a 3-1/2-ton floor jack, with the
jack placed right in the middle of the main crossmember that goes
under the front of the engine. Lifting the whole front at once
eliminates a lot of potential problems. Then, I place appropriate jack
stands (good quality and rated at a minimum of 2 tons each) under the
crossmember to support the coach and lower it down on them before
working under there.
There are jack hooks that will hook into the frame behind a front
wheel and provide a means of jacking up one front wheel using a bottle
jack. Dig around in Bdub's supplier list.
The floor jack works great for doing work at home but it's far too big
and heavy to haul around. Lifting the front on the road? Only if I
have a level spot to park and then I'll figure something out with a
bottle jack. Good Sam is always an option in that situation. I try to
maintain the coach sufficiently not to need that, but stuff happens.
Rick "who would never lift the coach by the bumper" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ
77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
Photosite: Chrisc GMC:"It has Begun" TT: "The Other Woman"
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64842 is a reply to message #64839] |
Wed, 18 November 2009 20:28 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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""I do exactly what Rick does with exactly the same equipment. For my transmission swap, I may use the forklift, however... ""
Chris--many of us jack the entire front of the GMC by the center of the frame cross member--it is more than up to the task. There are however some early coaches with a different front crossmember which was quickly redesigned. Also, I suppose some people confuse the rad support as a cross member.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64854 is a reply to message #64842] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 00:04 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I stopped by larry Weidner's one day and he brought out a 2.5 ton long reach floor jack. It can lift the entire front end or either side rear at one time. After using it one time I stopped at Harbor Freight on the way home and bought one.
I use it for every vehicle that I now need to raise, not just the motorhome. There are no cracked windshields using this one. I believe I paid $119 for it.
I do not carry it in the coach though I did take it to the Bean Station and Hamilton work rallies.
I do carry in the coach two different sizes and heights of bottle jacks plus two different types of jack hooks for the rear. One hook came from from Terry Skinner and one from Ragusa.
On the road on the front I do not use a hook. I jack under the a-frame so it only needs to go up an inch or two to change a tire. The same goes for the rear. I raise the coach about 2" above level and completely deflate the air bag. I actually remove the fill hose to the bag. It only takes a minute with a 7/16" or 1/2" inch wrench. At that point the tire is not off of the ground and does not need to be to remove it or install a new one because there is no downward pressure on the wheel.
I had a flat on my way back from Louisiana after dark on a lonely 2 lane road in MIssissippi. No cars came by the entire time I was there. It took less than 10 minutes for me to change the tire using my procedure. The biggest problem was lifting the spare off and back on the rear carrier. I since have gone to aluminum wheels which makes that spare tire lighter.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64862 is a reply to message #64854] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 07:01 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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| Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 01:04 |
On the road on the front I do not use a hook. I jack under the a-frame so it only needs to go up an inch or two to change a tire. The same goes for the rear. I raise the coach about 2" above level and completely deflate the air bag. I actually remove the fill hose to the bag. It only takes a minute with a 7/16" or 1/2" inch wrench. At that point the tire is not off of the ground and does not need to be to remove it or install a new one because there is no downward pressure on the wheel.
I had a flat on my way back from Louisiana after dark on a lonely 2 lane road in MIssissippi. No cars came by the entire time I was there. It took less than 10 minutes for me to change the tire using my procedure. The biggest problem was lifting the spare off and back on the rear carrier. I since have gone to aluminum wheels which makes that spare tire lighter.
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Ken, Since I have not yet had the experience to change a tire, please clarify,
"I raise the coach about 2" above level" (with the bottle jack?)
"At that point the tire is not off"? "and does not need to be to"?
Thanks
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64875 is a reply to message #64874] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 08:34 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Bill,
Actually if you're going to take your floor jack you could use it under a
front A-frame to jack up and change a front tire.
Depending on how low the floor jack will go you should be able to put it
under the bogies and jack up the back. Keep in mind you can use the air bags
to raise the coach to get the jack under there if you have to.
If it works you don't need the bottle jack for this trip! ;-)
Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Bill Backouris
Sent: Friday, 20 November 2009 1:28 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach?
Ken, plan to carry 2.5 ton floor jack for my upcoming trip, I have no hooks,
what would your recomendation be for lifting rear for tire change using
floor jack, thanks Ken
Bill Backouris
77 Birchaven 455
Garden Grove Ca
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64888 is a reply to message #64862] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 10:35 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
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Richard MacDonald writes...
> Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 01:04
>> On the road on the front I do not use a hook. I jack under the
>> a-frame so it only needs to go up an inch or two to change a tire.
>> The same goes for the rear. I raise the coach about 2" above level
>> and completely deflate the air bag. I actually remove the fill
>> hose to the bag. It only takes a minute with a 7/16" or 1/2" inch
>> wrench. At that point the tire is not off of the ground and does
>> not need to be to remove it or install a new one because there is
>> no downward pressure on the wheel.
>>
>> I had a flat on my way back from Louisiana after dark on a lonely
>> 2 lane road in MIssissippi. No cars came by the entire time I was
>> there. It took less than 10 minutes for me to change the tire
>> using my procedure. The biggest problem was lifting the spare off
>> and back on the rear carrier. I since have gone to aluminum wheels
>> which makes that spare tire lighter.
> Ken, Since I have not yet had the experience to change a tire, please clarify,
> "I raise the coach about 2" above level" (with the bottle jack?)
On the rear, you can put the bottle jack under the bogie frame, right
between the rear tires. A regular bottle jack won't fit under the
bogie frame, but that's where the jack hooks come into play. There are
several jack hooks designed for the rear bogie frame, but only one for
the front. The hook grabs the opening in the bogie frame and provides
a recessed surface into which the top of a bottle jack inserts.
Lifting the rear high enough to get the tire to clear is tough. Ken
just raise the jack until it's taut, and the lifts it two inches
further. That takes most of the weight off the rear tire. Then, he
lets the air out of the bag on that side ("Lower" on the control
switches). At that point, he can lift the tire off the spindle even
though the tire is still touching because it's being held down only by
the weight of the bogie arm and brake assembly, which is not that
heavy.
Gas-filled shocks will help--the gas pressure will actually help raise
the bogie. Lifting the bogie high enough to slip the spare onto the
nuts is just a matter of lining it up with the bottle jack.
On the front, he lifts right under the lower ball joint on the lower
control arm. That lifts the tire directly. When you lift from the
center of the crossmember, you have to lift it high enough to use up
the suspension travel before the tire will clear terra firma. But
lifting at the lower control arm maintains the compression of the
suspension so you only have to lift it about an inch to get the tire
off the ground. But you must be careful--the lower control arm is not
designs with a jack surface and a jack can slip off of it. That would
be a Bad Thing.
Loosen the lug nuts (not to the point where the wheel moves, of
course) first whatever you do
Rick "not sure the typical bottle jack will fit under the lower
control arm if the tire is flat" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64889 is a reply to message #64874] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 10:38 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
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Bill Backouris writes...
> Ken, plan to carry 2.5 ton floor jack for my upcoming trip, I have
> no hooks, what would your recomendation be for lifting rear for tire
> change using floor jack, thanks Ken
Just roll the jack under the center of the bogie frame, at the low
point right between the two rear wheels. If it doesn't fit, then you
have a problem, but if it's a flat tire you can still raise the bogie
frame by filling the bag up all the way. If the bag is blown, you
might not be able to get a jack under there at all without hooks.
Rick "who would not travel without jack hooks for the rear bogies"
Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64896 is a reply to message #64773] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 11:21 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Thanks for that, was not sure just how he did that. I do have hooks for the Coach, assume they are for the bogies, I also made jack pads which are under the twin beds. Have a large bottle jack but think I will look at HF for a smaller one too.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64897 is a reply to message #64862] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 11:27 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| Oldngray wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 07:01 |
| Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 01:04 |
On the road on the front I do not use a hook. I jack under the a-frame so it only needs to go up an inch or two to change a tire. The same goes for the rear. I raise the coach about 2" above level and completely deflate the air bag. I actually remove the fill hose to the bag. It only takes a minute with a 7/16" or 1/2" inch wrench. At that point the tire is not off of the ground and does not need to be to remove it or install a new one because there is no downward pressure on the wheel.
I had a flat on my way back from Louisiana after dark on a lonely 2 lane road in MIssissippi. No cars came by the entire time I was there. It took less than 10 minutes for me to change the tire using my procedure. The biggest problem was lifting the spare off and back on the rear carrier. I since have gone to aluminum wheels which makes that spare tire lighter.
|
Ken, Since I have not yet had the experience to change a tire, please clarify,
"I raise the coach about 2" above level" (with the bottle jack?)
"At that point the tire is not off"? "and does not need to be to"?
Thanks
|
With an airbag COMPLETELY deflated, there is next to no weight being applied to the tire / wheel by the coach. You simply unbolt the wheel and remove it. The hub / brake drum will drop down a little when the wheel is removed but can be easily lifted up hand when installing the new wheel. Some people have used a piece of old leaf spring and slide it into the bogies under the arm to hold it up. I made a couple of these but have found that they are not really necessary. I have also seen people use small pieces of 1x2 and just jam them in there. I suggest that these are not really necessary.
You might want to try this at home once (under less stressful conditions) before you actually need to do this on the side of the road somewhere.
The key is to COMPLETELY deflate the air bag. This is why I simply remove the air hose from the bag while I'm changing a tire. When I'm done, I reattach the hose, lower the jack to an inch or 2 below below normal level and turn on the compressor again. While it is pumping up I reinstall the flat tire on the carrier. Once the bag is pumped back to level again the jack is easily removed. At this point I torque the lug nuts since the weight of the coach will prevent the wheels from turning.
It takes longer to try to explain it here than it really takes to change a rear one.
I just realized that many people have never changed a GMC rear tire. Maybe we ought to have a demonstration at the next GMC rally. It is not a difficult procedure.
Here is the procedure I use.
1. Block the wheels so the coach can not roll if the coach is not on perfectly flat ground.
2. Check the spare for correct air pressure. Anything between 60 and 85 will do for now.
3. Remove the spare from the carrier and pre-position it near the tire to be changed.
4. Break loose all of the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed.
5. Jack up the coach using a bottle jack and jack hook to about 2" above normal ride height.
6. Turn on the ignition and set the air bag on that side only to lower.
7. When most of the air is gone, turn off the ignition and remove the hose from the air bag.
8. Remove the lugnuts and the wheel.
9. Lift up slightly on the bogie arm by hand and slide the new wheel onto the hub. This is where you could use the a piece of wood or old leaf spring to hold it up. I do not bother.
10. Install the lug nuts as tight a practical making the sure that the wheel is seated properly.
11. Reinstall the hose, turn on the ignition, and set the air bag switches to normal.
12. Lower the coach slightly on the jack until the ride height switch senses it is low and turns on the compressor.
12a. IMMEDIATELY REMOVE the piece of leaf spring if used BEFORE the bag pumps back up.
12b. While the compressor is pumping up the bag, reinstall the removed tire on the spare tire carrier.
13. When the compressoor stops pumping you are at normal ride height. Remove the jack.
14. Torque the lug bolts and drive away. Re-installation of hub caps and lugnut covers are optional at this point. You can always do that later when you are in a less stressful parking place.
I hope I did not confuse you.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64900 is a reply to message #64897] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 11:41 |
Jim White[1]
Messages: 144
Registered: September 2008
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Ken-
I just insert a pair of needle nose pliers below the bogie arm before
I begin and remove before I release the jack.
Somebody suggested that we tie a bright ribbon or rag to whatever we
insert to make it more visible for timely removal.
Dale Ropp had some neat little wedges that he uses.
Works for me so far-
Jim "Doc" White
Wintergreen, VA
75 GMC Stretch (with no flat tires so far)
**************
Ken Burton wrote:
> Oldngray wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 07:01
>
>> Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 19 November 2009 01:04
>>
>>> On the road on the front I do not use a hook. I jack under the a-frame so it only needs to go up an inch or two to change a tire. The same goes for the rear. I raise the coach about 2" above level and completely deflate the air bag. I actually remove the fill hose to the bag. It only takes a minute with a 7/16" or 1/2" inch wrench. At that point the tire is not off of the ground and does not need to be to remove it or install a new one because there is no downward pressure on the wheel.
>>>
>>> I had a flat on my way back from Louisiana after dark on a lonely 2 lane road in MIssissippi. No cars came by the entire time I was there. It took less than 10 minutes for me to change the tire using my procedure. The biggest problem was lifting the spare off and back on the rear carrier. I since have gone to aluminum wheels which makes that spare tire lighter.
>>>
>> Ken, Since I have not yet had the experience to change a tire, please clarify,
>> "I raise the coach about 2" above level" (with the bottle jack?)
>>
>> "At that point the tire is not off"? "and does not need to be to"?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>
> With an airbag COMPLETELY deflated, there is next to no weight being applied to the tire / wheel by the coach. You simply unbolt the wheel and remove it. The hub / brake drum will drop down a little when the wheel is removed but can be easily lifted up hand when installing the new wheel. Some people have used a piece of old leaf spring and slide it into the bogies under the arm to hold it up. I made a couple of these but have found that they are not really necessary. I have also seen people use small pieces of 1x2 and just jam them in there. I suggest that these are not really necessary.
>
> You might want to try this at home once (under less stressful conditions) before you actually need to do this on the side of the road somewhere.
>
> The key is to COMPLETELY deflate the air bag. This is why I simply remove the air hose from the bag while I'm changing a tire. When I'm done, I reattach the hose, lower the jack to an inch or 2 below below normal level and turn on the compressor again. While it is pumping up I reinstall the flat tire on the carrier. Once the bag is pumped back to level again the jack is easily removed. At this point I torque the lug nuts since the weight of the coach will prevent the wheels from turning.
>
> It takes longer to try to explain it here than it really takes to change a rear one.
>
> I just realized that many people have never changed a GMC rear tire. Maybe we ought to have a demonstration at the next GMC rally. It is not a difficult procedure.
>
> Here is the procedure I use.
>
> 1. Block the wheels so the coach can not roll if the coach is not on perfectly flat ground.
> 2. Check the spare for correct air pressure. Anything between 60 and 85 will do for now.
> 3. Remove the spare from the carrier and pre-position it near the tire to be changed.
> 4. Break loose all of the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed.
> 5. Jack up the coach using a bottle jack and jack hook to about 2" above normal ride height.
> 6. Turn on the ignition and set the air bag on that side only to lower.
> 7. When most of the air is gone, turn off the ignition and remove the hose from the air bag.
> 8. Remove the lugnuts and the wheel.
> 9. Lift up slightly on the bogie arm by hand and slide the new wheel onto the hub. This is where you could use the a piece of wood or old leaf spring to hold it up. I do not bother.
> 10. Install the lug nuts as tight a practical making the sure that the wheel is seated properly.
> 11. Reinstall the hose, turn on the ignition, and set the air bag switches to normal.
> 12. Lower the coach slightly on the jack until the ride height switch senses it is low and turns on the compressor.
> 12a. IMMEDIATELY REMOVE the piece of leaf spring if used BEFORE the bag pumps back up.
> 12b. While the compressor is pumping up the bag, reinstall the removed tire on the spare tire carrier.
> 13. When the compressoor stops pumping you are at normal ride height. Remove the jack.
> 14. Torque the lug bolts and drive away. Re-installation of hub caps and lugnut covers are optional at this point. You can always do that later when you are in a less stressful parking place.
>
>
> I hope I did not confuse you.
>
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] how to jack up the front of the coach? [message #64915 is a reply to message #64773] |
Thu, 19 November 2009 13:36 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I would really like to suggest this goes into a FAQ: DO NOT USE THE
PROCEDURE GIVEN IN THE MANUAL TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE COACH!
I looked at the damage today, and in addition to letting oil out
of the front bumper shocks, it bent the heck out of the brackets that
attach the shock to the back of the bumper. Some of this damage is
old -- jacking both sides as we did straightened out the odd angle of
the front bumper obviously caused by some prior jacking.
This is the worst method I have ever seen for jacking up a vehicle,
and is utterly ridiculous. I'd be surprised if GM wasn't sued over the
damage caused by following their instructions! I think nearly any other
reasonable method you can come up with is less likely to do damage than
following their procedure.
Karen
1973 23' Patience Tester
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Karen
1975 26'
San Jose, CA
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