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| [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59706] |
Sun, 11 October 2009 00:28  |
Trey Shannon
Messages: 12
Registered: January 2009
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Our GMC is stored inside most of th time.
We do start the engines periodically to make sure it is ready to go.
I would like to NOT run the compressor weekly when we spin up the system.
What is the easiest way to disable the compressor until needed?
Trey
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59707 is a reply to message #59706] |
Sun, 11 October 2009 02:40  |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| Trey Shannon wrote on Sat, 10 October 2009 22:28 |
... What is the easiest way to disable the compressor until needed?
|
Trey, what type of system do you have? (what year)
My "Electro-Level II" (late 1978) does not run the pumps (2) in the "hold" position. My "Power Level" (1973 to early 1976) has a PO installed switch to turn off the pump (1). I am not sure of the "Electro-Level" (late '76 to early '78).
No matter what system, it would not be a bad idea to change to a power relay to provide "stiff" power to your pump. (Big wire from battery to relay then the pump... no voltage drop through switches and the like.) This is on my to-do list for both coaches.
If you install a power relay, you can easily put a "pump(s) off" switch in the control loop.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59729 is a reply to message #59707] |
Sun, 11 October 2009 11:09 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Mike Miller wrote on Sun, 11 October 2009 02:40 |
| Trey Shannon wrote on Sat, 10 October 2009 22:28 |
... What is the easiest way to disable the compressor until needed?
|
Trey, what type of system do you have? (what year)
My "Electro-Level II" (late 1978) does not run the pumps (2) in the "hold" position. My "Power Level" (1973 to early 1976) has a PO installed switch to turn off the pump (1). I am not sure of the "Electro-Level" (late '76 to early '78).
No matter what system, it would not be a bad idea to change to a power relay to provide "stiff" power to your pump. (Big wire from battery to relay then the pump... no voltage drop through switches and the like.) This is on my to-do list for both coaches.
If you install a power relay, you can easily put a "pump(s) off" switch in the control loop.
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If it is an Electrolevel I system, put the center switch in "HOLD".
What year is your coach?
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59870 is a reply to message #59785] |
Mon, 12 October 2009 11:38 |
Rick Denney
Messages: 430
Registered: January 2004
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Bill Bryant writes...
>> I would like to NOT run the compressor weekly when we spin up the system.
> Weekly??? Gotta be some opinions on this :)
Apparently, everyone is feeling timid today, so I'll bite.
The recommendation I have received from the experts among us is to
avoid starting the engine and just letting it idle. That doesn't get
the engine hot enough to boil off moisture in the oil pan, and it
might actually cause the formation of acids that do more damage the
moisture. So, the recommendation is to drive the coach any time you
start it up for the purpose of "warming it up". One expert, who lives
in cold country, recommended just leaving it over the winter and
starting it up the next spring.
Another advantage to driving the coach when you "warm it up" is that
it exercises the tires. The tires stay supple and avoid cracking on
the basis of exercise, which apparently releases some of the emoluents
and other additives in the rubber designed to keep them from aging too
quickly.
But driving in snow is not recommended, especially for snow idiots
like me.
Rick "whose coach sits too much" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59880 is a reply to message #59870] |
Mon, 12 October 2009 12:39 |
Gary Casey
Messages: 448
Registered: September 2009
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I certainly agree with Rick in his opinion on running the engine intermittently in the winter. My opinion is that when you're done with it, park it, and when you want to use it again start it up. In between it would like to stay cold and dry(and still). This is true more of some parts than others, but it is certainly true of the exhaust system, which eventually dries out if left alone. To fill it with water every week will certainly hasten its demise. The crankcase starts out full of combustion products, including water, but the oil has corrosion inhibitors that attempt to control the situation, and eventually the crankcase will dry out (not much ventilation there, so it might take months). Sure, the PCV will draw in fresh air with the engine idling, but the best way for that to work is with a hot engine and hot oil, like coming back from the last trip of the year. I hate to start something up just to see if it starts. For aircraft engines I've
seen a crankcase dryer proposed, and that's not a bad idea. I don't know if it is worth it, though. I'd certainly like to park the engine with relatively new oil than with oil nearing the end of its change interval, though.
One problem with parking the coach outside is the big temperature swings from day to night. Don't know the best way around that (yes, I do - it just costs money!), but would think protecting all the windows from radiant heating would go a long ways. The engine is pretty well isolated, so it doesn't suffer quite as much.
Gary
>> I would like to NOT run the compressor weekly when we spin up the system.
> Weekly??? Gotta be some opinions on this :)
Apparently, everyone is feeling timid today, so I'll bite.
The recommendation I have received from the experts among us is to
avoid starting the engine and just letting it idle. That doesn't get
the engine hot enough to boil off moisture in the oil pan, and it
might actually cause the formation of acids that do more damage the
moisture. So, the recommendation is to drive the coach any time you
start it up for the purpose of "warming it up". One expert, who lives
in cold country, recommended just leaving it over the winter and
starting it up the next spring.
Another advantage to driving the coach when you "warm it up" is that
it exercises the tires. The tires stay supple and avoid cracking on
the basis of exercise, which apparently releases some of the emoluents
and other additives in the rubber designed to keep them from aging too
quickly.
But driving in snow is not recommended, especially for snow idiots
like me.
Rick "whose coach sits too much" Denney
'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #59885 is a reply to message #59880] |
Mon, 12 October 2009 13:59 |
Tin Gerbil
Messages: 236
Registered: October 2006
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
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Gary;
On the aircraft, we plug the intake with a piece of closed cell foam and
the exhaust with rubber balls. The idea is to stop the air from going
through a cylinder with both valves open.
What you can safely do with a stored coach is dependent on where you
live. In the dry desert you will get far less water vapour forming from
combustion than in the West Coast Rain Forest. It is common for me to
see cold vehicles spewing a stream of water from their tailpipes after
they have idled at a stoplight and proceed on the green. This can't be
good for the exhaust systems or engines that are started once a month
and left to idle.
Gordon
Gary Casey wrote:
> I certainly agree with Rick in his opinion on running the engine
> intermittently in the winter. My opinion is that when you're done
> with it, park it, and when you want to use it again start it up. In
> between it would like to stay cold and dry(and still). This is true
> more of some parts than others, but it is certainly true of the
> exhaust system, which eventually dries out if left alone. To fill it
> with water every week will certainly hasten its demise. The
> crankcase starts out full of combustion products, including water,
> but the oil has corrosion inhibitors that attempt to control the
> situation, and eventually the crankcase will dry out (not much
> ventilation there, so it might take months). Sure, the PCV will draw
> in fresh air with the engine idling, but the best way for that to
> work is with a hot engine and hot oil, like coming back from the last
> trip of the year. I hate to start something up just to see if it
> starts. For aircraft engines I've seen a crankcase dryer proposed,
> and that's not a bad idea. I don't know if it is worth it, though.
> I'd certainly like to park the engine with relatively new oil than
> with oil nearing the end of its change interval, though.
>
> One problem with parking the coach outside is the big temperature
> swings from day to night. Don't know the best way around that (yes,
> I do - it just costs money!), but would think protecting all the
> windows from radiant heating would go a long ways. The engine is
> pretty well isolated, so it doesn't suffer quite as much. Gary
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Gordon
'74 Canyon Lands "Tin Gerbil"
Vancouver Island, B.C.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor [message #260231 is a reply to message #260197] |
Wed, 27 August 2014 12:23 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Jim at the Co-op wrote on Wed, 27 August 2014 05:30Agreed, there are several issues such as that. Â I rewire the regulator to the trigger side of the compressor relay and as I explained before we relocate the power source to a higher current avsilable circuit.
But, for those not as famkliar with all that, the 380 Viair compressor will upgrade the circuit by just putting in the new compressor. Â When we work the system, my guys first replace the compressor, get it working then do the kodifications one at a time. This wsy, you create less misunderstood negative responses.
Jim Bounds
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
From: Steve Southworth
Date: 08/27/2014 3:12 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Air Compressor
USAussie wrote on Tue, 26 August 2014 22:54
> There is a pressure switch that turns the pump on and off; IIRC on the OEM pumps (Thomas and Dana) it feeds the power directly to
> the pump.
>
> The larger volume / higher pressure range Viair pumps require more power and the wires from the pressure switch can't handle it.
> Therefore you use the pressure switch to control the relay and wire the pump to a source of more power / amps.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
The OEM system of feeding the pump direct from the pressure switch is marginal. Especially on a 40 year old machine. The OEM system feeds all the
current through the internal wiring and the ingnition switch auxilary contacts. It's pushing the limits of that system.  By using a relay that 20
amps or so current is delivered direct to the compressor. Thus removing that high current from the ignition switch and avoiding the voltage drop of
the marginal size OEM wiring. The compressor runs better and the ignition switch is happy by not carring that load. It's an easy to do win win.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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Holy Zombie thread, Previous post was 2009?
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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