| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing Options [message #367381 is a reply to message #367372] |
Fri, 29 October 2021 09:34   |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma:
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Billy Massey wrote on Thu, 28 October 2021 20:56I run my air pressure wide open. What is needed is lots of volumn to get all the residual moisture out and away from any fittings.
I leave only one outlet open at a time. Apply air, as that outlet quits blowing moisture, shut it and open another immediately. I do this until there isn't a trace of moisture from any outlet. That served me very well for several years.
Now I just blow a little and then add pink through the pump to all outlets,
add in floor drain, done. Easy, peasy.
bdub
Billy's is basically good, but I should caution those that do not still have the original copper of the early coaches. My shop air pressure is 150psi, and that can exceed what plastic plumbing can handle. So, if you have plastic, think about using a regulator in the set up. I do use one because the time I put shop air pressure on the system it was really violent.
Another note, the relief valve on most water heaters is close to the top. Too high for a good drain down. All the RV/Marine water heaters I have seen do have a drain that is supposed to be low enough to prevent freeze damage.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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