Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Winterizing options
| Winterizing options [message #367111] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 11:45  |
ktcnyc
Messages: 25
Registered: September 2020
Karma: -1
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Hey Folks - I am planning to leave Pa early March for warmer climes and I wonder about whether I can get away with just draining and blowing out the rig. Mainly I don't want a coach full of pink stuff when I depart- but I don't need any leaks on the road either. The coach has all plastic lines as far as I can tell.
Many Thanks for any of your opinions/experiences with this.
KC
Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367112 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 12:54  |
stu@97381.com, Emery
Messages: 232
Registered: June 2020
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I would just fill it with water and sanitize the tank and water lines with bleach. Drain and rinse out and then fill it with water for your trip. Since your water lines are inside the coach and you’ll be driving the coach and keeping it warm when parking for the night you should not have a freezing problem and not have to worry about the water system until you return home.
Emery Stora
76 Kingsley
Frederick CO
> On Oct 9, 2021, at 10:45 AM, kcloutier@nyc.rr.com wrote:
>
> Hey Folks - I am planning to leave Pa early March for warmer climes and I wonder about whether I can get away with just draining and blowing out the
> rig. Mainly I don't want a coach full of pink stuff when I depart- but I don't need any leaks on the road either. The coach has all plastic lines as
> far as I can tell.
> Many Thanks for any of your opinions/experiences with this.
>
> KC
> --
> Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
> '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
> Member GMCMI since 8/20
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367113 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 13:37 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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My personal belief(but I live in MN). Is blowing out lines only is risky. But most cases should be ok. Issue is some new toilets cant be blown out complete and if not done well, moisture left in lines can accumulate in a low spot and freeze.
I use rv antifreeze and with a pump kit, and water heater bypass, it is a 10-15 min process to winterization and de-winterization. I end up doing that a fee times in spring and fall.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367114 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 13:49 |
GatsbysCruise
Messages: 261
Registered: January 2017
Location: Waukegan, Illinois
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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BIG NO to blowing out the lines and not putting antifreeze in the lines.
Blowing with air is ok to get most the water out, but if you have any low spots where the water will drain
to, it WILL fill the line at that low spot and FREEZE, and it is a good bet the line will break.
Fact: Guy at work used to blow his camper lines out and did nothing else.
we had a heavy freeze one year and he spent the summer stripping the aluminum off the outside of his
camper to replace the broken lines. I remember him saying he had to finish replacing the lines
at a campground and put all the aluminum back on.
The only way to protect from freezing is to use food grade antifreeze in the water lines or drains and
anywhere else water may puddle in.
The only guarantee blowing with air will work is if your lines are all vertical. Horizontal lines have to
be installed meticulously for the slope to guarantee the water will drain out of a perfectly level camper.
Most campers are not put together in such a careful fashion so food grade antifreeze is the best choice other
than staying in warm climates.
it is pretty easy to keep antifreeze in gallon jugs and run it through before coming up to colder climates.
I have done it in the past.
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO - UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367115 is a reply to message #367113] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 13:45 |
Rob
Messages: 651
Registered: November 2013
Location: Victoria, BC
Karma: 3
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I've had friends lose water pumps and toilet valves when they relied ONLY on blowing out lines, even in our mild PNW climate.
I've also had friends mention they blow out the lines AND then add antifreeze. I could never get a good answer on how they think that helps... Just adding work, IMO.
If it was my water system - I'd do exactly as Jon mentions...
Rob
76 Royale Twin Beds, Dry Bath
Victoria, BC
> On Oct 9, 2021, at 11:37 AM, Jon Roche wrote:
>
> My personal belief(but I live in MN). Is blowing out lines only is risky. But most cases should be ok. Issue is some new toilets cant be blown out
> complete and if not done well, moisture left in lines can accumulate in a low spot and freeze.
>
> I use rv antifreeze and with a pump kit, and water heater bypass, it is a 10-15 min process to winterization and de-winterization. I end up doing
> that a fee times in spring and fall.
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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Rob -
Victoria, BC -
76 Royale - Rear Twins/Dry Bath
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367117 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 15:27 |
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Should be alright for now but for long term:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6990-winterizing-sweetpea.html
bdub
On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 11:45 AM wrote:
> Hey Folks - I am planning to leave Pa early March for warmer climes and I
> wonder about whether I can get away with just draining and blowing out
> the rig. Mainly I don't want a coach full of pink stuff when I depart- but
> I don't need any leaks on the road either.
>
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bdub
bdub.net
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367120 is a reply to message #367117] |
Sat, 09 October 2021 17:33 |
dsmithy
Messages: 210
Registered: July 2012
Location: Lincoln Nebraska
Karma: 0
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I'd go with Jon's advice as well. The pink stuff works well especially if you have purchased or invented a winterizing diverter. I was pretty scrupulous with my '73 with copper lines and it froze one winter, including my water heater. Had to re-do everything with pex, pulled the waterheater and welded up the (several) cracks and moved on with my life.
Now, I even go so far as to send a quart or so of pink stuff into the water heater to avoid another re-do of it.
IMHO the best way to de-winterize is to make sure your city water connection doesn't leak and that you have water at a dump station. I run the onboard pump to clean the antifreeze out of it and any seepage toward the fresh water tank and then I hook up to city water and flush everything out with LOTS of water, including the hot water heater. I don't think its ever taken more than 20 minutes to de-winterize the water system. Frankly, picking up the bajillion Bounce tissues that keep out the critters is more trouble.
JWID,
Doug
Douglas & Virginia Smith,
dsmithy18 at gmail,
Lincoln Nebraska,
’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367125 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 08:54 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Kevin,
Your climate is much like mine is in SE MI. It is not Minnesota, but there still has to be great care. Around here, hard freeze in April is very rare, but it does happen. If where the coach is has electric available, you could add some comfort by running a small heater with all the doors open. That would be enough to hold off the freeze to about 20°F.
If your coach is largely stock, it was built to have the potable system blown dry for the winter. There should be two low point drains in the galley and an other on the right side of the coach either by the waterworks or in the head.
There are two sticking points. Both are in the head (bathroom), one is where the water line dips down to the flush valve for the pot. If it is a Thetford pot, there is a little plastic valve that is part of the dump valve. It is a major PITA to replace and the last that I had to buy was 40$. This is a sore point that we discussed at Thetford, but "Hey, We sell parts!" If possible, when you are through blowing everything else clear, break that connection and be sure to blow that section clear. One of my thinking POs put in a drain and shut off there.
Another weak point in the head is the two loops that go up to the taps. My coach came with freeze damage there. These loops can be blown clear, but if yours are flexible plastic, just close will be good enough.
The two low point drains in the galley are important because the potable lines both loop overhead and this is where what does not get blown clear will collect. Mine are a bear to get to, but I have to hope that they did better in later years.
If the water heater does not have a by-pass, it should still have a drain. That drain is supposed to drain the tank to where it will not be damaged by freezing. If it has no by-pass, then it will take 5 gallons of pink stuff to protect it. Even if it has a by-pass, that will still have to be drained. You can do that by opening the hot tap and the drain and let it run out forever....
You will still have to drain the potable tank. There should be a valve in the waterworks to do this. Given where you live, if you are in the anti-freeze camp, add two valves in front of the potable pump one to close the tank suction and the other to a loose hose that can suck pink out of a jug.
It is also cleaver to add a valve that by-passes the potable pump and check valve so you can fill the potable tank from the city water connection.
Some potable pumps are protected from freeze damage, but not all are. If you do not know about what you have, disconnect it and run it for a minute.
A sailor friend (that explains much of the following) did a poor blow out and had some freeze damage to repair. Then he tried "Red Pop" it is often called here. It took him most of the season to have decent potable again. Since then, has come in with a number of large bottles of cheap vodka. The first of the season, the coffee is interesting. It was July before he could make ice with the onboard potable. Why vodka? Because cheap rum is often so spiced that it does ruin coffee.
I have been told of, but never seen, an individual that has a bucket and a pump. With the pump sucking on the bucket, he attaches the discharge to the city water fitting and lets things run until it is pink every where. This sounds so simple that I have to wonder why it is not more popular. But, as said, I don't know of this directly. So, if you know more, I should like to hear.
Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367145 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 19:27 |
boybach
Messages: 566
Registered: December 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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As I am the first year newbie here and have already had a good summer of camping .. (I might try 2 more trips 'fore old man winter comes a callin), today ordered a heater by-pass and a pump converter kit.
I haven't checked the rig yet as I store it quite a way from my place ..I know I don't have the bypass as I was just in there dicking around with the heater reset switch last week, but there's a chance I have the pump attachment -will have to have a look tomorrow. No biggie if I end up with a new one.
I also bought a plastic blow-out valve thingy to attach to the city supply intake (although I've never actually hooked up to that fitting) so don't know much about it or how it's plumbed etc. Doubt that it's been hooked up for years, but of course not sure of P.O's regimen. The system had pink when I picked it up last spring but pretty sure the pink was only in the hot water side of things, but there again maybe not. I just remember the stink more from the hot water tap.
My plan with the blow out valve was to hook it up to a 12v tiny portable tire inflation pump that works off the cig lighter - how does that sound? Useless or good idea?
Anything else I should do other than draining and buying a few gallons of pinkeye?
thanks lads
Larry
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367146 is a reply to message #367145] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 19:43 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Larry- the cigarette lighter air compressor will be worthless. It is about volume, not pressure. If anything use a portable air tank, but you may look at the hand pump rv winterizer
To pump the pink into the city connection.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367148 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 20:32 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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One of the first years we owned the coach, I tried blowing the lines clean with shop air. That spring when I fired things up, I found the water pump had split open and was leaking badly. Ever since, I have drained the water heater, and I have run the pink stuff through. After putting some pink stuff in the water heater and experiencing what seemed like forever to clear that effervescent aftermath, I took all efforts to see to it that pink stuff did not get into the water heater. Ran it through hot and cold of kitchen and bathroom sink, shower hot and cold, and toilet. Also filled the traps with pink, and after flushing the black and grey tanks, I pour in 3 gallons of pink stuff down the toilet and run the macerator until I see pink out the hose. In spite of well below zero temps (we live in NW Wisconsin) the only issue we have had is that a little pink stuff still makes its way into the hot water tank and have to put up with a week or so of effervescence until enough water is run through to clear it out. IMO, use the pink stuff. A lot easier and cheaper than replacing pipes and equipment. JMHO
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367149 is a reply to message #367111] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 20:34 |
boybach
Messages: 566
Registered: December 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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I have access to a compressor but it's a massive industrial one, other than that nothing, no tank.
Larry
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367150 is a reply to message #367148] |
Sun, 10 October 2021 22:27 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Larry
I have been winterizing my GMC for many years and I only use one gallon of RV antifreeze (pink). I have done this for almost 40 years with no freezing problem. I lived in Michigan for years and in Santa Fe for 19 years (over 7000 feet with lot of snow in the winter. I have lived in the Denver area for about 11 years now and we get lots of freezing in the winter — below zero at times.
You should order these two kits from Amazon:
water heater bypass kit: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23506LFVP-Lead-Free-Converter/dp/B00HSNYWTW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit% 2Bfor%2Bwinterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
pump kit to pull antifreeze from 1 gallon bottle: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv+bypass+kit+ for+winterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv+bypass+kit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-2
Here is something I posted in 2007 to the GMC Motorhome Photos site that shows the water heater bypass valve and the drain valve modification I made to my water heater:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4119-water-heater-door-2f-drain-valve.html
Using the water heater bypass kit none of the antifreeze gets into the hot water tank. You just drain the water out of it. So it is not necessary to put any antifreeze into the water heater.
The kit for the water pump allows you to pump the water right out of the jug into the lines.
It is not necessary to dump any antifreeze into the toilet.
The antifreeze that comes out of the faucets (kitchen and bath) and the shower hose and the toilet is enough to drain into the holding tank and back to the macerator pump to keep it from freezing.
I use less than a gallon in the lines and whatever I have left in the jug I pour into the shower drain to protect the trap from freezing and cracking. The two sink traps have enough in them from the antifreeze that comes out of the faucets.
Emery Stora
emerystora@mac.com
> On Oct 10, 2021, at 7:32 PM, Larry wrote:
>
> One of the first years we owned the coach, I tried blowing the lines clean with shop air. That spring when I fired things up, I found the water pump
> had split open and was leaking badly. Ever since, I have drained the water heater, and I have run the pink stuff through. After putting some pink
> stuff in the water heater and experiencing what seemed like forever to clear that effervescent aftermath, I took all efforts to see to it that pink
> stuff did not get into the water heater. Ran it through hot and cold of kitchen and bathroom sink, shower hot and cold, and toilet. Also filled the
> traps with pink, and after flushing the black and grey tanks, I pour in 3 gallons of pink stuff down the toilet and run the macerator until I see pink
> out the hose. In spite of well below zero temps (we live in NW Wisconsin) the only issue we have had is that a little pink stuff still makes its way
> into the hot water tank and have to put up with a week or so of effervescence until enough water is run through to clear it out. IMO, use the pink
> stuff. A lot easier and cheaper than replacing pipes and equipment. JMHO
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367152 is a reply to message #367111] |
Mon, 11 October 2021 07:56 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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HI Emery,
Thanks for the information. That is the same information that I got from you back in 2005 (or so) when I updated the plumbing in our coach. I have used all of that equipment that you suggested and I could do it with just one gallon of pink stuff. But my gray and black tanks do not empty completely.leaving some water in the bottom. Just being safe, I feel that the left-overs going into the tank from kitchen, shower and bath is not enough to guarantee that the macerator will not freeze. Any pink stuff that goes into the tanks is diluted by the water still in the tank, raising the freeze point. For me the extra spent on a couple of gallons of pink is worth the peace of mind. Just my way of thinking. No matter how hard I have tried, even with the hot water tank diverter, still don't get all of the pink stuff out of the little corners here and there in the system, and somehow a little of it manages to get into the hot water heater, and leaves me with some effervescence. A minor inconvenience. I only added that so that if anyone experienced the effervescence, they would know why.
Have to thank you again for all of that advice that I got from you early in our GMC experience. No doubt has saved me a from lot of trouble.
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367160 is a reply to message #367150] |
Mon, 11 October 2021 12:00 |
boybach
Messages: 566
Registered: December 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Hey thanks Emery, that's the best advice for a poor relation like me having just one black tank and no mascerator can get. 
After emptying, should I leave the gate valves on the black tank open? (I have two; an extra one with a cover at the very end of the discharge pipe)
I ordered both of the kits you recommended, should be here on Thursday. The access to the tank mod you did looks like just the thing, there sure ain't a lot of room in there to work beside the toilet in a wet bath unit like mine. I might just do the same mod as I don't use that lower cabinet for much and with the mod you don't lose any space anyway, right?
As far as the toilet goes, do I need to run the pink through to a flush (so I can see pink in the bowl) to make sure the toilet lines are protected?
Cheers
Larry
Emery Stora wrote on Sun, 10 October 2021 20:27Larry
I have been winterizing my GMC for many years and I only use one gallon of RV antifreeze (pink). I have done this for almost 40 years with no freezing problem. I lived in Michigan for years and in Santa Fe for 19 years (over 7000 feet with lot of snow in the winter. I have lived in the Denver area for about 11 years now and we get lots of freezing in the winter — below zero at times.
You should order these two kits from Amazon:
water heater bypass kit: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P23506LFVP-Lead-Free-Converter/dp/B00HSNYWTW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit% 2Bfor%2Bwinterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv%2Bbypass%2Bkit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
pump kit to pull antifreeze from 1 gallon bottle: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_2?crid=8B8C1T3U7A0G&dchild=1&keywords=rv+bypass+kit+ for+winterizing&qid=1633904379&sprefix=rv+bypass+kit%2Caps%2C250&sr=8-2
Here is something I posted in 2007 to the GMC Motorhome Photos site that shows the water heater bypass valve and the drain valve modification I made to my water heater:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4119-water-heater-door-2f-drain-valve.html
Using the water heater bypass kit none of the antifreeze gets into the hot water tank. You just drain the water out of it. So it is not necessary to put any antifreeze into the water heater.
The kit for the water pump allows you to pump the water right out of the jug into the lines.
It is not necessary to dump any antifreeze into the toilet.
The antifreeze that comes out of the faucets (kitchen and bath) and the shower hose and the toilet is enough to drain into the holding tank and back to the macerator pump to keep it from freezing.
I use less than a gallon in the lines and whatever I have left in the jug I pour into the shower drain to protect the trap from freezing and cracking. The two sink traps have enough in them from the antifreeze that comes out of the faucets.
Emery Stora
emerystora@mac.com
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367163 is a reply to message #367160] |
Mon, 11 October 2021 15:21 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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boybach wrote on Mon, 11 October 2021 13:00Hey thanks Emery, that's the best advice for a poor relation like me having just one black tank and no mascerator can get.
After emptying, should I leave the gate valves on the black tank open? (I have two; an extra one with a cover at the very end of the discharge pipe)
I ordered both of the kits you recommended, should be here on Thursday. The access to the tank mod you did looks like just the thing, there sure ain't a lot of room in there to work beside the toilet in a wet bath unit like mine. I might just do the same mod as I don't use that lower cabinet for much and with the mod you don't lose any space anyway, right?
As far as the toilet goes, do I need to run the pink through to a flush (so I can see pink in the bowl) to make sure the toilet lines are protected?
Cheers
Larry
Larry,
If you are gong the anti-freeze way, then yes, get pink in the bowl. If you do not, there is a very good chance that you can freeze and bust that 40$ and PITA to replace valve.
As to the gate valves. My experience with the Valterra, Bladex and Bristol is very limited, but if you still have a white Thetford valve at the tank, do not leave that one open. As for the others, I cannot be certain, but knowing the construction of the Valterra, I would not suggest that you leave that open either.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Winterizing options [message #367166 is a reply to message #367125] |
Mon, 11 October 2021 17:58 |
dsmithy
Messages: 210
Registered: July 2012
Location: Lincoln Nebraska
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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So, Matt,
"Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed."
So what do YOU do. Suspend the coach from the roof of your barn on greased ropes? What kind of grease? What kind of rope?
Everyone on this forum has the same problems over the winter.
Douglas & Virginia Smith,
dsmithy18 at gmail,
Lincoln Nebraska,
’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367170 is a reply to message #367111] |
Mon, 11 October 2021 21:22 |
stu@97381.com, Emery
Messages: 232
Registered: June 2020
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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A good method to keep mice out is to purchase an electric fence controller and enough chopsticks to encircle your Motorhome about 18” apart. Buy enough small gauge bare wire to put two strands on the chopsticks - one about 1/2” above the ground and the other 1-1/2” above the ground.
Connect the fence controller to the wires and plug it in. Note: this should also keep out squirrels.
If there is enough demand maybe we can get Jim Kanomata to stock them!
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO
> On Oct 11, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Douglas Smith wrote:
>
> So, Matt,
> "Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed."
> So what do YOU do. Suspend the coach from the roof of your barn on greased ropes? What kind of grease? What kind of rope?
> Everyone on this forum has the same problems over the winter.
>
>
> --
> Douglas & Virginia Smith,
> dsmithy18 at gmail,
> Lincoln Nebraska,
> ’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
> Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options [message #367172 is a reply to message #367170] |
Tue, 12 October 2021 09:35 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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LOL too bad we get 3 feet of snow here!
________________________________
From: Emery Stora via Gmclist
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 9:22 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Cc: Emery Stora
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Winterizing options
A good method to keep mice out is to purchase an electric fence controller and enough chopsticks to encircle your Motorhome about 18” apart. Buy enough small gauge bare wire to put two strands on the chopsticks - one about 1/2” above the ground and the other 1-1/2” above the ground.
Connect the fence controller to the wires and plug it in. Note: this should also keep out squirrels.
If there is enough demand maybe we can get Jim Kanomata to stock them!
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO
> On Oct 11, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Douglas Smith wrote:
>
> So, Matt,
> "Oh, and just in passing, I found dryer sheets shredded for nesting material and Irish Spring chips that had been chewed."
> So what do YOU do. Suspend the coach from the roof of your barn on greased ropes? What kind of grease? What kind of rope?
> Everyone on this forum has the same problems over the winter.
>
>
> --
> Douglas & Virginia Smith,
> dsmithy18 at gmail,
> Lincoln Nebraska,
> ’73 “Sequoia” since ‘95: "Wanabizo";
> Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3:70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Alloy wheels/Sundry other
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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