| [GMCnet] Haven't run the coach in a year [message #366151] |
Sat, 14 August 2021 22:21  |
rallymaster
Messages: 662
Registered: February 2004
Location: North Plains, ORYGUN
Karma: -4
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Haven't run the coach in a year
What should I do before I fire it up?
Thanks,
Ron
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Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
78 Eleganza II
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| [GMCnet] Re: Haven't run the coach in a year [message #366152 is a reply to message #366151] |
Sat, 14 August 2021 22:47  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Remove the plugs. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt, and by hand
carefully rotate the engine through 2 full revolutions being aware of any
tight resistance to moving the crank. If none is felt, then lubricate all
the cylinders with a thin oil like 10wt. Disconnect the primary ignition
wire and crank the engine with the starter, keep an eagle eye on the oil
pressure gage. If that looks OK, then drain the oil and change the filter,
then refill the engine with oil of your choosing.
Crank the engine again and verify oil pressure. Put the plugs back in,
re-connect the primary ignition wire, and start the engine. Listen for any
noises that are unusual. If none, warm the engine up and shut it off. Drain
the oil and change the filter and refill the sump. You should be good to
go. What I would do. Others will chime in here.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sat, Aug 14, 2021, 8:22 PM Ron Clark wrote:
>
> Haven't run the coach in a year
>
> What should I do before I fire it up?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Haven't run the coach in a year [message #366154 is a reply to message #366152] |
Sun, 15 August 2021 07:18 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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James Hupy wrote on Sat, 14 August 2021 23:47Remove the plugs. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt, and by hand
carefully rotate the engine through 2 full revolutions being aware of any tight resistance to moving the crank. If none is felt, then lubricate all the cylinders with a thin oil like 10wt. Disconnect the primary ignition wire and crank the engine with the starter, keep an eagle eye on the oil pressure gage. If that looks OK, then drain the oil and change the filter, then refill the engine with oil of your choosing.
Crank the engine again and verify oil pressure. Put the plugs back in, re-connect the primary ignition wire, and start the engine. Listen for any noises that are unusual. If none, warm the engine up and shut it off. Drain the oil and change the filter and refill the sump. You should be good to go. What I would do. Others will chime in here.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sat, Aug 14, 2021, 8:22 PM Ron Clark wrote: Haven't run the coach in a year
What should I do before I fire it up?
Thanks,
Ron
Ron,
As very much expected, Jim is on the mark. In the recreational marine trades we see many engines ignored to death. Startups after a long shut down is very high on the list of causes and most were easily prevented.
Jim did miss one small piece of advice.
That year old fuel may not be very good any more. As soon as you can get new fuel in her, do it. New fuel will have the storeage additives to possibly prevent varnish from forming. It would be even better if you could drain and refill the fuel, but that may be a challenge.
One of the things we often find when doing the analysis of why the recently restarted engine is that what the owner thought was a season of non-use was really two or more. This makes things even worse.
I am not sure about Jim's double lube oil service, but think of it in simple terms..
An oil and filter change? About 30$us cash out of pocket and about an hour of your time....
An engine R&R with overhaul? About 3~5K$us and down for an known time.
Matt - writing from his dinette because I we are dark for a fifth day and I can get my phone to be web here.
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Haven't run the coach in a year [message #366163 is a reply to message #366151] |
Sun, 15 August 2021 14:29 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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As a counterpoint view, if it was a modern engine, the engine would start in under 2 turns (computer needs to see crank and one cam sensor pass to find cyl1) then promptly rev to about 1700, then down to 1500 etc. That THROWS oil off the crank and rod ends and up to the walls, pistons and rings and cam lobes. Slow cranking does none of that. Only rubs dry parts.
Also, best to change oil BEFORE storage so that doesn't add to dry start and acids don’t attack and sludge settle out during the down time. This is what I do.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Haven't run the coach in a year [message #366184 is a reply to message #366163] |
Mon, 16 August 2021 21:24 |
Melbo
Messages: 144
Registered: August 2018
Location: Albuquerque NM
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I was told once that OIL is the cheapest thing that you can put in a motor or transmission. I still believe it. Oil in the cylinders and change the oil. CHEAP insurance in my opinion.
HTH
Melbo
Albuquerque NM Bus Conversion 1978 MCI 1973 GMC
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