| Engine Battery No Charge [message #363290] |
Tue, 06 April 2021 23:53  |
Afastchief
Messages: 9
Registered: October 2011
Location: King NC
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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I was returning from a short trip to burn off fuel so I could drop tanks and replace vent lines. It was getting dark and by time I got home the headlights had set with the sun(Very Dim). I looked at voltmeter and it was showing around 10v. I charged engine battery and checked voltage at isolator center post and reading was erratic but mostly around 8-10v. I removed alternator and took it to local alt/starter rebuild shop and a week later I have a rebuilt 80A alt that was run on the bench for 20 minutes and met all GM specs.
I installed alternator and fired it up with dash voltmeter still showing 10v and when I turned the lights on it dropped to 8v. The dash voltmeter did not follow engine rpm at the slightest, rock steady. I checked voltage at isolator with the following results:
Top: 12.02 steady
Center: erratic, i.e.… 0/2/4/0/18/0/2 etc….
Bottom: 12.45 steady
I removed all wires on isolator and cleaned and treated with CAIG Deoxit, reinstalled, started engine and rechecked numbers; no change?
I am looking for suggestions or a good T/S link.
Thank you,
Alan Edmondson
King, NC
1978 Royale
Alan Edmondson
King, NC
78 Royale, engine bay insulation, dual cockpit fans, Victron 160A isolator, Yandina combiner, Victron BMV 700 battery monitor with Bluetooth, Progressive Dynamics 9200 converter
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| Re: Engine Battery No Charge [message #363302 is a reply to message #363290] |
Wed, 07 April 2021 09:05  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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You are describing bad connection of the sense and/or turn on wire plug on the alternator. Take it of, carefully remove the contacts, clean and bend for good contact and put them back - in the correct places. Consider an alternator protection cable is you don't already have one fitted. Then accomplish Burns' test if it doesn't operate correctly after cleaning and re-tensioning.
(The alternator was likely OK, but now it's in new condition for another 40 years or so.)
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Engine Battery No Charge [message #363326 is a reply to message #363302] |
Wed, 07 April 2021 22:42 |
Afastchief
Messages: 9
Registered: October 2011
Location: King NC
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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I really appreciate your advice. I should be able to T/S this weekend and will repost. Thanks again...Alan
Alan Edmondson
King, NC
78 Royale, engine bay insulation, dual cockpit fans, Victron 160A isolator, Yandina combiner, Victron BMV 700 battery monitor with Bluetooth, Progressive Dynamics 9200 converter
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| Re: Engine Battery No Charge [message #363328 is a reply to message #363326] |
Thu, 08 April 2021 00:32 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I have read the above recommendations / instructions and agree with both Bruce and Johnny. My initial reaction was that the connection at the alternator, or one of the two wires going to it, are open or partially sightly open. I had a similar problem once and when I later found the problem it was with that connection on the alternator.
MY GUESS is your problem is with the Start line and the alternator failing to start. There are several other things in that start circuit that could be the issue if cleaning and adding tension to the connectors does not fix this.
If it were starting, and the sense line or connector failed, the alternator would go over voltage. Without looking at the diagram IIRC the gen or alternator light and the dreaded nichrome wire are in that circuit too. If it fails after following Bruce and Johnny's recommendations I will research this start circuit some more for you.
One last Comment. When cleaning these connectors do not over look the blade part of the connector INSIDE the alternator. Check it for electrical cleanliness and make sure is is not loose inside.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| [GMCnet] Re: Engine battery [message #365999 is a reply to message #363290] |
Mon, 09 August 2021 00:19 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Yellow top. Damned phone!
> On Aug 8, 2021, at 10:09 PM, Larry Davick wrote:
>
> Jay Leno swears by the Optima hello top (?) for his cars. They sit on trickle chargers and don’t off gas and promote rust and rot.
>
> More $$ though.
> Larry Davick
>
>> On Aug 8, 2021, at 9:32 AM, John Wright wrote:
>>
>> All good suggestions, if your going to buy a battery then get it from a national seller. As suggested these are gapped. Cisco, Sams club, Walmart, Autozone, ORelily, and even Napa. That way you can get it replaced if under warrantee almost anywhere. I buy from Sams club for my 6 Volt Gold cart batteries and I scored a HD 950 CCA battery from Walmart for my chassis battery.
>>
>> J.R. Wright
>> GMC Great Laker MHC
>> GMCGL Tech Editor
>> GMC Eastern States Charter Member
>> GMCMI
>> 78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
>> 75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
>> Michigan
>>>> On Aug 8, 2021, at 10:34 AM, John R. Lebetski wrote:
>>>
>>> Farm and Fleet Group 78 Platinum 7 year prorate, 3 year free replace.
>>> --
>>> John Lebetski
>>> Woodstock, IL
>>> 77 Eleganza II
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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