Be very careful when using rubber hose over flared fittings. Those
fittings typically have fairly sharp edges which can easily cut through the
rubber hose, especially if there's a clamp placed too close to the flare.
Double flared fittings, with their rolled flare edge are a lot better, but
still not my preference. Best is a formed bubble near the end of the hard
line. Since few have a way to make those, a compression ring is probably
easier. I take a coupling of the appropriate size for the line. Install
the coupling nut on the line, then the compression ring, then the coupler.
When the nut's tightened on the ring, that will be permanently seated on
the line. Remove the coupling and install the tubing, with its clamp
"behind" the compression ring, which acts as the retainer. Unfortunately,
the compression nut will remain on the hard line. If that really bothers
you, you could cut it off with a Dremel tool, I guess.

JWID,

Ken H.


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 1:04 PM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Ken i would flare any hose to line connection and use EFI clamps [some
> call them band clamps] and not the gear clamps.... or your just going to
> have
> leaks.
>
> I'm not a fan of compression fittings when joining fuel lines, i know
> people do it with success just not my preferred way....JMHO
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
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Matt,

Good idea leaving the double flare only "half done" -- I should have
mentioned that option. For those not familiar with the making of double
flares: The first step is to insert a "inverter plug" (don't know what
else to call it) into the cut end of the tube to be flared. That plug
mates with the forcing cone of the flaring tool and is shaped on the tubing
side so that it forces the tubing to expand a short distance from its end,
where it retains its original size. At that point, there is a "bubble" at
the end of the tubing, a perfect retainer for rubber tubing to fit over.
To complete the double flare, the "plug" is removed, allowing the forcing
cone of the tool to press the open end of the tubing into the bubble,
completing the double flare. That last step is not needed if it's not to
be a flare connection.

Ken H.


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:31 PM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:

> Ken,
>
> Some number of years ago (actually 8 - I just looked it up), I did
> everything with Polyarmor and J30-R14 hose and a minimum of that. Where I
> needed
> to connect the metal to rubber, I just did the first part of a double
> flare and left it that way.
>
> To attach to the pick-ups, I borrowed Emory's plan and used and cut the
> bubbles off so I could make that joint with a brass compression fitting I
> wanted no rubber over the tanks.
>
> There is now less than 6 feet of rubber in the entire fuel system.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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I would put a threaded fitting on the hard line and flare it, then thread a bayonet fitting onto it, and clamp the rubber to the bayonet. That's what they're for. Since you have in tank pumps, all the fittings are under pressure. Anywhere there's rubber to metal, use a bayonet fitting and a clamp. Here's a picture of one done that way:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/cane-9-creek-rv-park-heflin-2c-al/p58467-fuel-pump-follies.html

That is the rubber hose from the hard line across the frame member to the hardline to the carb. The hardline was unscrewed from the pump, and a threaded bayonet fitting used.

--johnny