Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » For those i the know....steering
For those i the know....steering [message #354256] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 14:44 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no pun intended...lol]
Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim, MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel, went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing perfectly.
If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
[Updated on: Wed, 29 April 2020 14:45] Report message to a moderator
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354257 is a reply to message #354256] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 15:26 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on the upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the plate then put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering wheel without touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the adjustable shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by turning both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the box is on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no pun intended...lol]
Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim, MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel, went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing perfectly.
If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354258 is a reply to message #354257] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 15:28 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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PS: the pitman arm is splined to fit one way only so removing it is not only hard it won’t help.
C Boyd wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 16:26Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on the upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the plate then put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering wheel without touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the adjustable shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by turning both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the box is on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no pun intended...lol]
Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim, MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel, went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing perfectly.
If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354261 is a reply to message #354258] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 16:07 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Yes, the absolute best fix is to install an adjustable drag link. It goes
from the pitman arm to the relay arm. Then, disassemble the constant
velocity joint on the intermediate steering column shaft.
Micro adjustments can then be made without changing the centerline of the
steering box.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 1:29 PM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> PS: the pitman arm is splined to fit one way only so removing it is not
> only hard it won’t help.
>
>
>
>
>
> C Boyd wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 16:26
>> Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on the
> upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from
>> steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels
> straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the plate
> then
>> put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering
> wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering wheel
> without
>> touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the adjustable
> shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by turning
>> both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the box is
> on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
>> I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44
>>> OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no
> pun intended...lol]
>>>
>>> Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last
> summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from
>>> driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
>>>
>>> So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim,
> MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned
>>> properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped
> in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel,
>>> went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it
> pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i
>>> surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with
> the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
> 8o
>>>
>>>
>>> So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the
> steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even
>>> close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
>>>
>>> see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
>>>
>>> Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you
> think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the
>>> cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod
> lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what
>>> my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been
> aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing
>>> perfectly.
>>>
>>> If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line
> but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and
>>> your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354262 is a reply to message #354257] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 16:33 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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Mr Boyd i know exactly of what you speak as i have corrected close to the same issue on many a steering rack vehicle and a few trucks in my alignment days.
Thanks you for the catch on the upper bolts as well...i'll get a look and adjust as needed.
C Boyd wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 16:26Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on the upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the plate then put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering wheel without touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the adjustable shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by turning both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the box is on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no pun intended...lol]
Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim, MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel, went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing perfectly.
If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354264 is a reply to message #354261] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 16:38 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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Jim that"s a great option and may be a good work around to this mess instead of messing with the tie-rods but i will to make sure they are some what equal in length to be sure everything is on center...no point in going through all the effort only to have nothing center aligned and steering rotational angles wrong.
James Hupy wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 17:07Yes, the absolute best fix is to install an adjustable drag link. It goes
from the pitman arm to the relay arm. Then, disassemble the constant
velocity joint on the intermediate steering column shaft.
Micro adjustments can then be made without changing the centerline of the
steering box.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 1:29 PM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> PS: the pitman arm is splined to fit one way only so removing it is not
> only hard it won’t help.
>
>
>
>
>
> C Boyd wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 16:26
>> Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on the
> upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from
>> steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels
> straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the plate
> then
>> put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering
> wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering wheel
> without
>> touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the adjustable
> shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by turning
>> both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the box is
> on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
>> I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44
>>> OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right! [no
> pun intended...lol]
>>>
>>> Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last
> summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was from
>>> driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
>>>
>>> So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim,
> MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is aligned
>>> properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i jumped
> in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering wheel,
>>> went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it
> pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy was i
>>> surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with
> the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the bumper!!
>
>>>
>>>
>>> So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the
> steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even
>>> close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
>>>
>>> see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
>>>
>>> Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you
> think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the
>>> cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure tie-rod
> lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is what
>>> my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its been
> aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing
>>> perfectly.
>>>
>>> If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center Line
> but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and
>>> your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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|
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Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354266 is a reply to message #354264] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 17:24 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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The steering box itself is only correct one way. You have already described
it, so I won't belabor that point. Just a fine, red, frog hair off, in
either direction is not good.
But, the upper c.v. joint has six ways that it can be aligned. Only
one is correct. The lower, square plastic coated slip shaft has 4 different
ways that it can be assembled. Only one of them is correct. The splines
that align the lower part of the lower cross and yoke u-joint has a wide
spline with a matching one on the input shaft on the steering box.
The same setup exists for the steering column shaft and the upper c.v.
joint. Only one correct way there, also.
Chances are, on these old coaches, that that assembly is more likely
than not to be assembled incorrectly, than correctly. Gotta start with
getting the steering box correct, then work both ends against the middle.
Tie rods are always wrong in my experience. Lots of alignment guys will
center the steering box that way. Quick and dirty, and WRONG.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 2:39 PM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist
wrote:
> Jim that"s a great option and may be a good work around to this mess
> instead of messing with the tie-rods but i will to make sure they are some
> what
> equal in length to be sure everything is on center...no point in going
> through all the effort only to have nothing center aligned and steering
> rotational angles wrong.
>
> James Hupy wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 17:07
>> Yes, the absolute best fix is to install an adjustable drag link. It goes
>> from the pitman arm to the relay arm. Then, disassemble the constant
>> velocity joint on the intermediate steering column shaft.
>> Micro adjustments can then be made without changing the centerline of the
>> steering box.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, Oregon
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 1:29 PM Charles Boyd via Gmclist > gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>> PS: the pitman arm is splined to fit one way only so removing it is
> not
>>> only hard it won’t help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> C Boyd wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 16:26
>>>> Sir: from here it kinda looks like it is off one of the 6 bolts on
> the
>>> upper joint. Next question is do you have an adjustable link from
>>>> steering box to relay lever? If you do you can start with the wheels
>>> straight ahead and adjust the link till the flat is parallel to the
> plate
>>> then
>>>> put the shaft back on and take the 6 bolts out and set the steering
>>> wheel straight. This will center your box and straighten steering
> wheel
>>> without
>>>> touching the toe adjustment. However if you don’t have the
> adjustable
>>> shaft you will have to use the tie rod ends to center the box by
> turning
>>>> both the same direction the same amount at the same time till the
> box is
>>> on center then set the shaft to lineup the steering wheel.
>>>> I am sure someone else will be able to explain it better.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 15:44
>>>> > OK the questions and the quest continues to set this coach right!
> [no
>>> pun intended...lol]
>>>> >
>>>> > Driving the coach back 800 miles from the PO on the east coast last
>>> summer i couldn't help but remember how sore my wrist and thumb was
> from
>>>> > driving 3 days/ 10hrs a day.
>>>> >
>>>> > So i did some reading here and everywhere about how Alex, Ken, Jim,
>>> MatT, Johnny, Bruce etc checked to make sure the steering shaft is
> aligned
>>>> > properly at the box. Armed with a bit of new found knowledge i
> jumped
>>> in the coach today [bored from working], straightened up the steering
> wheel,
>>>> > went out and looked at the steering u-joint bolt hoping to see it
>>> pointing towards a nice tangent line with the pitman arm. Well boy
> was i
>>>> > surprised!!! The bolt was pointing towards a nice tangent line with
>>> the pitman arm, sure, if the pitman arm was sitting next to the
> bumper!!
>>> 8o
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > So Off with the u-joint to look at the position of the flat of the
>>> steering box shaft...yup you probably guessed it....way off, not even
>>>> > close...like the flat is facing the front of the coach off!!
>>>> >
>>>> > see pic .... http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u42842-6cuda6.html
>>>> >
>>>> > Now the question for you guys.....whats the next step here....do you
>>> think pulling the pitman arm and rotating the shaft will get the
>>>> > cross-shaft to the next master spline? Am i better to measure
> tie-rod
>>> lengths and see if they are close to equal and adjust there (that is
> what
>>>> > my gut and experience is telling me)? Saddest part is im sure its
> been
>>> aligned before as the tires, although weather cracked, are wearing
>>>> > perfectly.
>>>> >
>>>> > If i had an alignment machine handy i would do it all from Center
> Line
>>> but my driveway is lacking one so a measuring tape, my knowledge and
>>>> > your experience here is gonna be the ticket.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> C. Boyd
>>> 76 Crestmont
>>> East Tennessee
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> Rich Mondor,
>
> Brockville, ON
>
> 77 Hughes 2600
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354268 is a reply to message #354267] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 19:54 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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Oh yah....good point!
JohnL455 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 20:53Caution on the adj drag link. It gives one more place to screw things up. Then the turn signal cancel is out of whack
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354269 is a reply to message #354268] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 20:18 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629 Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Before you finish up pull the horn button and make sure the index mark on the steering shaft is xactly 12 o’clock and steering wheel index mark matches. Then check upper and lower clamp bolts on the blue shaft with a 29/64 drill bit to slide thru. The splines are 36 teeth which is 10* per spline and the box only stays on center 7*. So 1 tooth off top or bottom and box is not on center. Yes in my opinion it is best to set box center with tie rods centered which will make your relay lever and idler arm 90* from drag link and frame and will hold straight with castor and toe set correctly.
6cuda6 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 20:54Oh yah....good point!
JohnL455 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 20:53Caution on the adj drag link. It gives one more place to screw things up. Then the turn signal cancel is out of whack
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354271 is a reply to message #354270] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 20:31 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959 Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Jim
The steering wheel on my 77 Kingsley cannot be adjusted by the finely splined hub because there is one wide spline so it only fits one way and there os no adjustment.
Emery Stora
> On Apr 29, 2020, at 7:22 PM, James Hupy via Gmclist wrote:
>
> The adjustable drag link's purpose is to adjust the toe in without
> disturbing the exact centering adjustment of the steering box. All the
> stuff on the steering column will help with getting the steering wheel and
> turn signal stuff right. Also, the steering wheel can be readjusted by it's
> finely splined hub.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 5:55 PM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist
>> wrote:
>>
>> Oh yah....good point!
>>
>> JohnL455 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 20:53
>>> Caution on the adj drag link. It gives one more place to screw things
>> up. Then the turn signal cancel is out of whack
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rich Mondor,
>>
>> Brockville, ON
>>
>> 77 Hughes 2600
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354272 is a reply to message #354261] |
Wed, 29 April 2020 20:56 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hmmm. I am beginning to suspect that GM perhaps might have used different
upper columns throughout their production run. My 1978 26' Royale has no
wide spline feature. And I have not encountered any wide spline columns.
That is not to say that GM never used them. If you say they did, then you
have seen them.
I have changed numerous steering wheels on coaches from the OEM ones
that block vision of the instruments, to late model GM Steering wheels. I
have not encountered wide spline setups. But, knowing GM, I am sure that
you are correct. I think they used what was handy and cheap.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 6:32 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Jim
> The steering wheel on my 77 Kingsley cannot be adjusted by the finely
> splined hub because there is one wide spline so it only fits one way and
> there os no adjustment.
>
> Emery Stora
>
>> On Apr 29, 2020, at 7:22 PM, James Hupy via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>> The adjustable drag link's purpose is to adjust the toe in without
>> disturbing the exact centering adjustment of the steering box. All the
>> stuff on the steering column will help with getting the steering wheel
> and
>> turn signal stuff right. Also, the steering wheel can be readjusted by
> it's
>> finely splined hub.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, Oregon
>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 5:55 PM 6cuda6--- via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Oh yah....good point!
>>>
>>> JohnL455 wrote on Wed, 29 April 2020 20:53
>>>> Caution on the adj drag link. It gives one more place to screw things
>>> up. Then the turn signal cancel is out of whack
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Rich Mondor,
>>>
>>> Brockville, ON
>>>
>>> 77 Hughes 2600
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354276 is a reply to message #354256] |
Thu, 30 April 2020 09:19 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Now that it is morning here in a wet spring day so typical of Michigan, and I have read this thread (which is actually very complete) it seems that the only thing missing (and it might be in Alex's notes) is a tabulation of where things can be wrong with no bad parts.....
I suggest that one start at the top.
Is the steering wheel straight ahead when the coach is? This is interesting but may be valueless.
Pop the horn button and see it the chisel mark on the top of that shaft is straight ahead. That is the wheel spline and easily corrected.
At the bottom of the steering column is the six bolt CV joint that is also on a spline that can be wrong.
Then there are those six bolts and their possible 60° error.
Below that is the slip shaft that can introduce a 90°error.
That is splined onto the steering box with its very own error possibilities and the drill test for this has covered.
Centering the steering box is absolutely essential.
As mentioned, the Pitman arm is on an indexed spline and that is the only part of my steering that did not need correction.
If your coach does have an adjustable drag link, then there can be error there. If not then the next is just a check.
With the rest done up tight and the wheel at straight ahead, the idler arm and relay lever should both be square to the front subframe.
Mine were not, but at least the angle was equal. (I have not checked this with the current sub frame, but I should.)
Now, either on your own or get a shop to set the toe-in.
My coach was a bear to keep in the lane. Ok, a front end issue. I took to the nearby shop them listed somewhere in the GMC stuff and they put it up and told me that I had lots of bad parts. At this time, it did not know jack about the GMC, but I had heard of Dave Lenzi and knew from my one day at the International at Berrin Springs that he made the good parts. I called him with a list of thing that I was told I needed.
He told me that they always did this and at just over 100K, I should not be needing any parts. He spent an hour (at least) on the phone going over all of this with me. I did all of the above and I still believe that most of what could be wrong was. It took me a full day and an half to get it all corrected. Ever after, the coach has been a joy to drive. (When I get to, Mary likes to drive in daylight.)
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] For those i the know....steering [message #354281 is a reply to message #354276] |
Thu, 30 April 2020 10:06 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Somewhere during all this front end work, the alignment needs to be
checked/adjusted. Here's a link to my rig which makes that task very
easy. However, unfortunately, I included little in the way of alignment
instructions in that album. In case anyone's interested, here's an
abbreviated version:
1. One can use one of my jigs, alternating sides, but 2's much better,
especially for checking Toe-In. I'll assume two. Mount one jig on each
front wheel with the long leg vertical. Be very sure the standoffs are
seated on the outer rim of the wheel (mine were made for Alcoa's -- others
will require different dimensions).
2. The first step is to get both cambers set. IIRC, the proper sequence
is Caster-Camber-Toe. There is a link in the album to a good description
of Caster adjustment. Do that with the Digital Laser Level (mine is
Craftsman with magnets) on the vertical leg. The usual upper A-arm
eccentrics are used. Hopefully you won't have to do any caster or camber
adjustments.
3. Now you want to align each front wheel exactly parallel to the coach's
frame. Position the steering STRAIGHT AHEAD and keep it there! To check
parallel, place the Laser Level on the horizontal 3/4" tube and turn the
laser on. Now position a target (I use a small sheet of white melamine
coated masonite with a moveable aluminum marker bent over one long edge)
against a smooth area of the long frame rail just behind where it begins at
the front. Mark where the laser dot strikes (using the moveable marker).
Now move the target as far aft as possible, and position the target again
on a smooth area of the long frame rail. Using the appropriate tie rod end
adjustment, move the laser dot to the mark. Repeat this procedure until no
adjustment is needed between the front and the rear strikes -- 3 times
should be plenty. Think about it and you'll realize that the front wheel
IS now parallel to the frame. Repeat on the other side and you should have
Zero toe-in.
4. If you want to set slight (NMT 1/8", IMHO) toe, then you have a choice
between using the conventional measure- between-tire-marks method, or my
way: I have 2 aluminum 3/4" tubes, each 60" long. Those bolt, centered,
to the horizontal legs of the wheel jigs. Measure between the front and
the rear ends of the mounted tubes. They should be the same if your
alignment parallel to the frame is correct. To set toe, adjust the tie rod
ends equal amounts in the same direction until the distance between the
ends of the 60" tubes is TWICE the desired toe. Why twice desired? 'Cause
the 60" is approximately twice the diameter of the tire.
That's how I do it & it doesn't take as long as it took me to write this.
I usually bring the complete set to conventions in case someone needs to
use it (there).
Ken H.
On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 10:20 AM Matt Colie via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Now that it is morning here in a wet spring day so typical of Michigan,
> and I have read this thread (which is actually very complete) it seems that
> the only thing missing (and it might be in Alex's notes) is a tabulation
> of where things can be wrong with no bad parts.....
>
> I suggest that one start at the top.
> Is the steering wheel straight ahead when the coach is? This is
> interesting but may be valueless.
> Pop the horn button and see it the chisel mark on the top of that shaft is
> straight ahead. That is the wheel spline and easily corrected.
> At the bottom of the steering column is the six bolt CV joint that is also
> on a spline that can be wrong.
> Then there are those six bolts and their possible 60° error.
> Below that is the slip shaft that can introduce a 90°error.
> That is splined onto the steering box with its very own error
> possibilities and the drill test for this has covered.
> Centering the steering box is absolutely essential.
> As mentioned, the Pitman arm is on an indexed spline and that is the only
> part of my steering that did not need correction.
> If your coach does have an adjustable drag link, then there can be error
> there. If not then the next is just a check.
> With the rest done up tight and the wheel at straight ahead, the idler arm
> and relay lever should both be square to the front subframe.
> Mine were not, but at least the angle was equal. (I have not checked this
> with the current sub frame, but I should.)
> Now, either on your own or get a shop to set the toe-in.
>
> My coach was a bear to keep in the lane. Ok, a front end issue. I took
> to the nearby shop them listed somewhere in the GMC stuff and they put it up
> and told me that I had lots of bad parts. At this time, it did not know
> jack about the GMC, but I had heard of Dave Lenzi and knew from my one day
> at
> the International at Berrin Springs that he made the good parts. I called
> him with a list of thing that I was told I needed.
>
> He told me that they always did this and at just over 100K, I should not
> be needing any parts. He spent an hour (at least) on the phone going over
> all of this with me. I did all of the above and I still believe that most
> of what could be wrong was. It took me a full day and an half to get it
> all corrected. Ever after, the coach has been a joy to drive. (When I
> get to, Mary likes to drive in daylight.)
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354369 is a reply to message #354256] |
Sat, 02 May 2020 13:48 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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Alright most of your suggestions were correct....I straightened the steering box up first then installed the 29/64 drill bit through the steering ujoint to make sure it was correct before putting the bolt through and securing it. Then i went inside to the coach to see were the steering wheel was clocked; ended up about a quarter turn to the right [which is suspected it would by the original position of the flat]. So now i had to make a choice, go outside and start taking things apart higher up or work inside.....well i thought the simplest would be to at least check to make sure the steering wheel was in the center and then work outside from there. Well i got lucky, steering wheel was off from the center punch mark, so off it came. Now has anyone tried to re-install the lock steering lock late snap ring without the GM tool....yup you guessed it.....i dont have it either.....lol. So i made one and put the whole thing back together.
Next will be a road test and then re-positioning of the tie-rods because if i'm correct the steering will be offset to the left now about an 1/8th of a turn.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354381 is a reply to message #354369] |
Sat, 02 May 2020 17:54 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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6cuda6 wrote on Sat, 02 May 2020 14:48Alright most of your suggestions were correct....I straightened the steering box up first then installed the 29/64 drill bit through the steering ujoint to make sure it was correct before putting the bolt through and securing it. Then i went inside to the coach to see were the steering wheel was clocked; ended up about a quarter turn to the right [which is suspected it would by the original position of the flat]. So now i had to make a choice, go outside and start taking things apart higher up or work inside.....well i thought the simplest would be to at least check to make sure the steering wheel was in the center and then work outside from there. Well i got lucky, steering wheel was off from the center punch mark, so off it came. Now has anyone tried to re-install the lock steering lock late snap ring without the GM tool....yup you guessed it.....i dont have it either.....lol. So i made one and put the whole thing back together.
Next will be a road test and then re-positioning of the tie-rods because if i'm correct the steering will be offset to the left now about an 1/8th of a turn.
Rich,
Hang on here a bit.... So, the chisel mark straight with the wheel? And the box is centered. If yes, don't touch anything yet.
Did you ever take a mechanical drawing class?
Do you remember the exercise of making different angles with the 45 & 60 triangles??
Same game. The slip joint can go together any of 4 ways and the CV joint any of 6 ways. So, you have 60° and 90° increments to reindex. So, make a solid guess how many degrees you need. An 1/8 of a turn is 45°. Then start adding and subtracting 60s and 90s until you hit close enough. Easy to hit a 30° index. Both that and 60° are easy to hit. Getting that last 15°out may take some serious thinking.
Remember, I had to be right before it left Pontiac.
Nice time to tell you, but in the states you can often borrow that tool from a store-front parts place.
Good Luck
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: For those i the know....steering [message #354390 is a reply to message #354381] |
Sat, 02 May 2020 21:01 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975 Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Senior Member |
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Matt
What i did was get the steering box to were it should be with the flat of the shaft aligned with the plate surface as per Alex and Ken's pics....then i put on the lower steering u-joint and let the steering wheel just fall were it may...from there i pulled the horn cap and looked to see if the steering wheel was indeed lined ip as per factory marks before tearing into the upper steering u-joint or the flange....the steering wheel was not lined up with the factory marks....so i pulled the wheel and put it in the factory spot.
Next i need to take the coach for a drive and see if the strering wheel is straight or if the steering wheel is off center and adjust the tie rods to bring the wheel back cenetered if not
The steering already feels better so i know the box is now correct and the steering wheel is at factory.
Matt Colie wrote on Sat, 02 May 2020 18:546cuda6 wrote on Sat, 02 May 2020 14:48Alright most of your suggestions were correct....I straightened the steering box up first then installed the 29/64 drill bit through the steering ujoint to make sure it was correct before putting the bolt through and securing it. Then i went inside to the coach to see were the steering wheel was clocked; ended up about a quarter turn to the right [which is suspected it would by the original position of the flat]. So now i had to make a choice, go outside and start taking things apart higher up or work inside.....well i thought the simplest would be to at least check to make sure the steering wheel was in the center and then work outside from there. Well i got lucky, steering wheel was off from the center punch mark, so off it came. Now has anyone tried to re-install the lock steering lock late snap ring without the GM tool....yup you guessed it.....i dont have it either.....lol. So i made one and put the whole thing back together.
Next will be a road test and then re-positioning of the tie-rods because if i'm correct the steering will be offset to the left now about an 1/8th of a turn.
Rich,
Hang on here a bit.... So, the chisel mark straight with the wheel? And the box is centered. If yes, don't touch anything yet.
Did you ever take a mechanical drawing class?
Do you remember the exercise of making different angles with the 45 & 60 triangles??
Same game. The slip joint can go together any of 4 ways and the CV joint any of 6 ways. So, you have 60° and 90° increments to reindex. So, make a solid guess how many degrees you need. An 1/8 of a turn is 45°. Then start adding and subtracting 60s and 90s until you hit close enough. Easy to hit a 30° index. Both that and 60° are easy to hit. Getting that last 15°out may take some serious thinking.
Remember, I had to be right before it left Pontiac.
Nice time to tell you, but in the states you can often borrow that tool from a store-front parts place.
Good Luck
Matt
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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