I was able to recurve the latch side at the bottom - which was too far out - by putting a 2x4 between it and the ground and pushing on the door at the latch area with my shoulder. That allowed the door to close enough that the second part of the latch engaged.

No pictures, sorry.

If the bottom of the door hits the jamb first (and keeps the middle and top from closing)

You want to stick something (a 2x4, for example) in the door opening at the bottom, latch side corner. Then rest the bottom of the 2x4 on the ground and close the door on it gently so that it doesn't fall out. It will be at an angle with the top of the 2x4 inside the coach and the bottom outside. Now push on latch edge of the door a little and you will see the top and middle spring closer while the bottom stays where it was because the 2x4 is in the way and then spring back when you release it. Next, push on it harder. I sort of 'bounced' it against the 2x4 with resolve, took the 2x4 out and noticed that the top and middle was now closer. That gave me hope so did it some more. Eventually care, luck, resolve, and the plastic deformation property of aluminum moved the bottom of the latch side of the door out so that it had the same shape as the latch side of the coach. At that point I was done and door completely.

Before I started the process, I removed some stick-on weatherstripping on the door jamb that a PO had stuck in there to keep the breeze out because the bottom was holding the whole door away from the jamb.

Let me know if you have specific questions about the procedure I described above.

Well I started the process and made some adjustment. There's a lot of movement in the hinge mounts so that doesn't help. I did notice when the door is in its secondary latch the mid door section(latch area) is inset about 1/8" to far. Will replacing the striker with the solid version fix that issue? If it does then the bottom might be acceptable and with a little more curving of the top it might might be acceptable as well.