Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Rear bearings/hubs (re and re confirmation)
| Rear bearings/hubs [message #353181] |
Fri, 27 March 2020 23:33  |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Hello all,
Just trucking along with my full restore and have replaced the rear brakes entirely. Pads and full brake kits...Springs, cylinders, adjusters etc. the whole deal. I have the bearings out of the drum assemblies but have left the races in place. I've removed all the old grease with clean rags and have inspected the bearings and races and have found no deficiencies. Previous to removal I had no issues either. I am cleaning the bearings, castle nut and retaining washer with acetone and have been attempting to keep things as contaminate free as possible. I will be repacking the bearings with new valvoline grease (with a grease packer). I am painting the drums black with high temp caliper/drum paint after cleaning up with a wire wheel and then wiping down with Xylene.
I have new napa oil seals ready to tap in and understand they must be set a little proud as to not touch the inner bearing.
I did pull out a ton of old grease. Some red, some black and some yellow. Like probably 3-4 tablespoons out of each hub. I think understand the spindle needs a light coating as well as the bearings packed well but do I need to add any additional grease? Seems I will be putting in far less than I removed.
I am in way above my head with all this stuff but feel confident in reading through many, many posts but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Oh and I think the the procedure for "setting" the hub assembly is to tighten the castle nut to 25-30ft lbs.,whilst spinning the hub, then back off a half turn and insert cotter pin at the earliest possible setting. Only going backward, not forward.
If I'm missing anything I would love some input.
Hope you are all staying safe and, as always, thank you for your comments/input.
Shawn
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
[Updated on: Fri, 27 March 2020 23:35] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353184 is a reply to message #353181] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 07:01  |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Hi Shawn,
Sounds like your on the right track so far.
Im not sure about the seal personnally as i have not had one of these apart yet but have had many others types apart as a mechanic.
The extra grease in the hub, which is probably mainly in kind of a cavity need to go back....so generally you would pack the bearings, pack grease into the hub recesses, install inner bearing, install inner seal (usually flush with hub but i maybe wrong in this application...generally a none flush seal install leads to it falling out) and install on spindle etc.
Ps: ill see if i can find a picture of the recess insude the hub.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353188 is a reply to message #353181] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 08:04 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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That's what I did on two coaches - I replaced the rear bearings on this one though, because two of them showed problems. Still working fione several years later.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353191 is a reply to message #353181] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 08:55 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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No! You hand rotate drum and seat by torquing to 30. Without touching drum loosen nut til slack. Then finger tighten nut. If EITHER sets of holes line up, pin it. If not LOOSEN the nut until the first hole lines up. Never tighten. The holes should be studied first while apart. They alternate to give 2x the resolution of the nut castilations. Don't have your wheel assembly jetteson from improper adjustment!
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353193 is a reply to message #353192] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 10:07 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
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Bruce is this true for all seals brands our one specific? I have Timken seals going in mine soon and im pretty sure the ones on the coach now are not original so i wont be able to measure seal thickness to compare to OEM.
RF_Burns wrote on Sat, 28 March 2020 10:18This diagram is from Ken Henderson. It shows how and why to set the real seal slightly proud of the Hub and also has the retaining nut tightening procedure.
New seals are deeper and have the inner portion of it's housing curled inward such that it could touch the inner bearing race cage.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc/p63892-rear-axle-seal.html
Also, if you need a replacement dust cap for your hub, a Dorman 13997 is a good fit. Wally Anderson advises to be sure the cotter pin is bent close around the retaining nut to prevent interference with this cap.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353208 is a reply to message #353181] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 12:51 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Thanks Gents,
John - Good catch on the hand tightening bit after backing up a half turn! Missed that part! Yikes!
Burns - Thank for the tip on the cover! Mine are actually still good but those ones sure are shiny! Hmm
Cuda - Yeah, Thats where all the grease was. There is a recess or cavity on the the hub between the the 2 bearings. I guess ill just slop a bunch in there...
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353227 is a reply to message #353181] |
Sat, 28 March 2020 22:31 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Bruce - May I ask how you set to the required proudness? Or are we just talking finger nail thickness type thing and call it good enough?
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353255 is a reply to message #353248] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 11:24 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Heres what I plan to do if i don't get an answer...
If my math is correct .060 is equivalent to approximately 1.5mm or 1/16 of an inch.
I was planning on finding something in shop with that thickness and just tapping the bearing in with that as a shoulder to stop me from going in any further. Moving around the circle slowly and carefully to ensure it's set flat and equal.
Thoughts?
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353256 is a reply to message #353255] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 11:39 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
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Thats how i would do it....the other option would be to make a plastic collar out of sheet stock.
Green machine wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 12:24Heres what I plan to do if i don't get an answer...
If my math is correct .060 is equivalent to approximately 1.5mm or 1/16 of an inch.
I was planning on finding something in shop with that thickness and just tapping the bearing in with that as a shoulder to stop me from going in any further. Moving around the circle slowly and carefully to ensure it's set flat and equal.
Thoughts?
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
[Updated on: Sun, 29 March 2020 11:39] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353261 is a reply to message #353256] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 12:01 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Yeah, come to think of it, maybe I will make something circular...One thing I have plenty of is hole saws!!
6cuda6 wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 11:39Thats how i would do it....the other option would be to make a plastic collar out of sheet stock.
Green machine wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 12:24Heres what I plan to do if i don't get an answer...
If my math is correct .060 is equivalent to approximately 1.5mm or 1/16 of an inch.
I was planning on finding something in shop with that thickness and just tapping the bearing in with that as a shoulder to stop me from going in any further. Moving around the circle slowly and carefully to ensure it's set flat and equal.
Thoughts?
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353277 is a reply to message #353261] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 16:08 |
Silvernort
Messages: 95
Registered: June 2019
Location: Rock Springs, WI
Karma: 0
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I used to update "seals" on my Nortons (felt and cork/rubber rings and whatever they had laying around in the factory, I think) with appropriate modern ones. These new seals were always too thick, so I would file them down to the correct dimension and this worked nicely. Is there a reason this should not be attempted on these wheel seals? If it is not a problem, what is the correct total thickness?
Shane Harvey
1973 26' "Packer Backer", 1976 Palm Beach, 1965 Dart
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353289 is a reply to message #353277] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 21:10 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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I did contemplate this but given the info within the forum I decided to just follow the herd....Baaaaah!
Silvernort wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 16:08I used to update "seals" on my Nortons (felt and cork/rubber rings and whatever they had laying around in the factory, I think) with appropriate modern ones. These new seals were always too thick, so I would file them down to the correct dimension and this worked nicely. Is there a reason this should not be attempted on these wheel seals? If it is not a problem, what is the correct total thickness?
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353290 is a reply to message #353284] |
Sun, 29 March 2020 21:12 |
Green machine
Messages: 184
Registered: July 2019
Location: North Vancouver BC
Karma: 5
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Too small? I'm ok with what I've done but for folks reading down the road can you please elaborate?
pjburt wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 18:36Silvernort wrote on Sun, 29 March 2020 14:08I used to update "seals" on my Nortons (felt and cork/rubber rings and whatever they had laying around in the factory, I think) with appropriate modern ones. These new seals were always too thick, so I would file them down to the correct dimension and this worked nicely. Is there a reason this should not be attempted on these wheel seals? If it is not a problem, what is the correct total thickness?
They are already too small.
Shawn Harris
North Vancouver,
Canada
1977 Palm Beach 403
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353313 is a reply to message #353290] |
Mon, 30 March 2020 09:52 |
Silvernort
Messages: 95
Registered: June 2019
Location: Rock Springs, WI
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Looking at the diagram, it looks like there is plenty of height to trim off a 32nd or so. I have to redo my bearings and seals this spring, so I'll just measure the clearance (height) and adjust my seals accordingly. I do this with a nice sharp fine bastard file (he, he, he, you said "file") just filing flat across the back once, turn 1/8th or so and repeat ad nauseum until I reach the desired size, deburr and it's good. On one of the afore mentioned Norton seals I had to reduce the height from about 3/16" to less than 1/8", worked fine. Just had to be extra careful to drive in square and flat.
Of course, YMMV.
Cheers
Shane Harvey
1973 26' "Packer Backer", 1976 Palm Beach, 1965 Dart
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353316 is a reply to message #353181] |
Mon, 30 March 2020 10:00 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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I should call Dave, but I think I remember what the issue is.
The problem I believe is when it is put flat, the inner rubber touches the bearing, and the seal will fail pre-maturely. By setting the seal about 1/16" proud, you give that a little clearance.yet still sealed against the spindle and hub.
I have one of dave's seal tools, and it works great. I have used it 3-4 times now. But in reality, that is an exact science, I am pretty certain that 1/16" does not need to be 100% exact, just letting that seal sit outside of the hub "proud" that little bit will work just fine for most everybody.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: Rear bearings/hubs [message #353317 is a reply to message #353316] |
Mon, 30 March 2020 10:13 |
Silvernort
Messages: 95
Registered: June 2019
Location: Rock Springs, WI
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lqqkatjon wrote on Mon, 30 March 2020 10:00I should call Dave, but I think I remember what the issue is.
The problem I believe is when it is put flat, the inner rubber touches the bearing, and the seal will fail pre-maturely. By setting the seal about 1/16" proud, you give that a little clearance.yet still sealed against the spindle and hub.
I have one of dave's seal tools, and it works great. I have used it 3-4 times now. But in reality, that is an exact science, I am pretty certain that 1/16" does not need to be 100% exact, just letting that seal sit outside of the hub "proud" that little bit will work just fine for most everybody.
Well darn. If that is the case filing is out.
Thanks for the info. If you find out otherwise, please let us know.
Cheeers
Shane Harvey
1973 26' "Packer Backer", 1976 Palm Beach, 1965 Dart
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