Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Pre-Oiling information requested
| Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351339] |
Wed, 08 January 2020 17:23  |
Greg C.
Messages: 224
Registered: October 2019
Location: Knoxville, TN
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A friend is looking at a 1976 Palm Beach that has been sitting for about three years. Taking the advice from this forum, I suggested to him that we pre-oil the engine before attempting a start up.
Here are a few questions: What type of end does the shaft on the drill need to have to fit into the oil pump drive once the distributor is removed?
Also, does it spin counterclockwise or clockwise to build pressure?
Will I be able to see pressure on the gauge if the switch is on and the gauge is functional while spinning the pump?
Thank you.
Greg Crawford
KM4ZCR
Knoxville, TN
"Ruby Sue"
1977 Royale
Rear Bath
403 Engine
American Eagle Wheels
Early Version Alex Sirum Quad bags
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351341 is a reply to message #351339] |
Wed, 08 January 2020 17:54  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Greg C. wrote on Wed, 08 January 2020 16:23A friend is looking at a 1976 Palm Beach that has been sitting for about three years. Taking the advice from this forum, I suggested to him that we pre-oil the engine before attempting a start up.
Here are a few questions: What type of end does the shaft on the drill need to have to fit into the oil pump drive once the distributor is removed? 5/16"
Also, does it spin counterclockwise or clockwise to build pressure? Counterclockwise
Will I be able to see pressure on the gauge if the switch is on and the gauge is functional while spinning the pump? Yes, you should
Thank you.
It's been about two years since I did this, but to the best of my memory, the above answers (in bold) are correct. Make sure you tape the 5/16 socket to the extension just in case it tries to come off.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351342 is a reply to message #351341] |
Wed, 08 January 2020 18:25 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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You can also use a 5/16 nut driver with a 1/4 drive in the handle to avoid losing the socket. I don't know where my dad got the set, no name brand on them, but that tool has been very handy for that job.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351343 is a reply to message #351342] |
Wed, 08 January 2020 19:26 |
Melbo
Messages: 144
Registered: August 2018
Location: Albuquerque NM
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I used a 6 in 1 screwdriver because it was long enough to reach. Took the handle off and all the bits out and used the 5/16 opening with it in a cordless drill
HTH
Melbo
Albuquerque NM Bus Conversion 1978 MCI 1973 GMC
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351345 is a reply to message #351339] |
Wed, 08 January 2020 20:06 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
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In case you don't have it, here is the whole procedure I posted a couple of months ago. HTH
Do not even turn that engine over until you get oil to the bearings. Gravity is your enemy. Over long periods of time gravity will drag oil off of bearing surfaces leaving them dry. If you prime the carb, and turn it over for immediate start, it will run for a period of time with out lubrication doing damage to bearing surfaces. Change the oil and filter to new 5W30 of your choice. Pull the distributor and turn oil pump with an electric drill until oil comes out of the rocker arms. This may take a while, but will insure oil to all bearing surfaces. Then pull the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders. Now, with the plugs out, open the throttle and turn the engine over until you have good oil pressure. NOW you have oil on the bearing surfaces, and it is safer to put the plugs in, and start the engine. Bring engine to 1500-2000 rpm immediately to get oil to the camshaft. The 5w30 I mentioned earlier will flow quicker to your bearings. Now, if you wish you can change oil to your choice of oil weight. I've seen to many engines that sat a long time get a quick start, appeared to run good, only to be followed, within a couple hundred or more miles, a rod or main bearing go out. IMO, because of a lack of adequate lubrication on initial start-up. OH, BTW, in the case of OHC engines, if oil pump is not available through the distributor, just pull the plugs and turn over until you see oil at the cam/rocker arms. It won't hurt anything to do this, and may save an engine. JMHO.
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351353 is a reply to message #351339] |
Thu, 09 January 2020 08:46 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Pre oiling is good for bearings but doesn't get oil on the walls, rings and pistons. I like the pull plugs and ignition primary idea better. 5 seconds should show oil pressure and by 10 seconds the carb bowl should be full. Then stop Reinstall plugs, wires and coil primary power. When it starts you want around 1200-1500 RPM ASAP to throw oil up to the walls. The chances of pulling the dist and getting timing right for a quick start are not great odds. Prolonged low speed cranking is bad on dry cylinders. JWID
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351354 is a reply to message #351339] |
Thu, 09 January 2020 09:23 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Also if the correct oil filter is installed, PF24 or equivalent, the filter has the anti drainback valve. Therefore I think it's better to confirm correct oil level on stick and wait until after engine has run to change oil and filter. Otherwise you add even more dry cranking time to reprime the system.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351355 is a reply to message #351339] |
Thu, 09 January 2020 10:54 |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
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If its been sitting for that length of time i also like to pull the spark plugs, squirt a shot of oil down each hole (one sqeeze of the trigger with the old oiling cans) then turn the motor over by hand to get oil on the cylinder walls....it will also help with just generally getting things moving before it starts spinning on the starter at 600rpm.
I have gone as far as to pour oil into both valve covers via the oil filer tube and crank case vent before priming....but you have to be careful of the oil level.
Dont worry about what direction to set your drill....the oil pump will only pick up oil one way....so spin it one way and if the drill doesnt try to break your wrist....when go the other way.....lol.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351360 is a reply to message #351339] |
Fri, 10 January 2020 07:52 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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What Rich said - 'bar' it over two complete turns and be sure all you get out of the plug holes is a bit of the oil you squirted in, instead of getting unknown liquids which could hydro lock the engine.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351364 is a reply to message #351339] |
Sat, 11 January 2020 10:22 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Greg,
You have not gotten any bad information here, but as an engine professional for just about all my life, I would like to lay it all out in an understandable and clear fashion. I have restarted many engines that may have not been stored (fogged) properly over the decades and managed to avoid doing more damage than existed before I got there.
1 - Pull the dipstick and confirm that there is lube oil in the engine.
Do I have to say why?
2 - Remove all of the spark plugs and put at least a squirt of good oil (not WD40) in each cylinder.
This is so you are not pulling dry rings in the bore. It will capillary around fast enough.
3 - Mark the distributor body to intake location and take the cap off the distributor.
This removes much of the guesswork when reinstalling this.
4 - Remove the clamp and pull the distributor out.
Make a note of how much the rotor moves because it will need to reverse that to go back in.
5 - Put a socket on the oil pump shaft and turn it counter-clock (for Olds engines) for about a full minute.
This can be done in stages if the drill motor gets too hot.
*** Olds Big Blocks have an oil squirt for the distributor drive. If you cannot see it, you do not have oil where it needs to be.
This squirter is the end of the left oil galley and it may take a flashlight to see it.
****Now the engine is oiled enough that moving it should do no damage.
6 - Put a socket on the damper and pull the engine through two full turns. Be attentive to "snags".
This is required to make sure that everything is clear and you have no valve train issues or piston/valve problems.
7 - Put power on the starter motor and let it spin the engine for three (minimum) 15 second long cranks.
This will both ensure that there is lube oil where it needs to be and possibly blow any extra oil out of the cylinders.
*** If you are at risk of hydraulic lock at this step, there are big problems.
8 - Put something in #1 plug hole and pull the engine to that compression. Stop with the damper mark in the timing saw.
This can be a finger, a cork or a compression gauge.
9 - Reinstall the distributor as close to #1 fire point as you can. Align the marks from step 3. Snug the clamp or it may spin.
You can even put the cap back on now.
10- Install spark plugs and wires and double check the firing order. Check that #5 & #7 wire are separated.
*** This is a big issue with all V-8s with this firing order.
11- If the air filter cover is still on, remove it and see if the acceleration pump squirts fuel.
Stroking the throttle should also set the choke at cold position.
*** If yes, put the cover back on.
If no, pour a very small amount of fuel into the throat. Put the cover back or at least cover your eyebrows......
12- Inspect your work and double check every thing you can think of.
Check belts and coolant and power steering fluid.
Now you get to power up the ignition and crank.
Be attentive. There can still be things wrong and damage can be avoided.
With the engine as well oiled as you have just done, there sound be no "morning sickness" rattle at all.
These engine oil the cylinders very well so there is no reason to run faster than idle until you get to 100° oil temp.
If you be kind to her, she will probably do her best for you.
Please come back and tell us how well it went. We need good news here from time to time.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351371 is a reply to message #351339] |
Sun, 12 January 2020 12:53 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Personally I add 3 1/2, before lifting the distributor out, mark the position of the rotor.
5 1/2 If you mark both the rotor and the body of the distributor accurately (I use a scribe) and replace it after oiling without turning the crankshaft, the engine will be timed as it was when it was parked.
It should be timed close enough to fire up. You can (carefully) use your timing light after it's been run a bit to set more accurately if need be. Ain't a bad idea to check it, and the advance weights on the initial run.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351609 is a reply to message #351360] |
Fri, 10 January 2020 17:48 |
johnd01
Messages: 354
Registered: July 2017
Location: Sacrameot
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How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
procedure?
On Fri, Jan 10, 2020 at 5:52 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> What Rich said - 'bar' it over two complete turns and be sure all you get
> out of the plug holes is a bit of the oil you squirted in, instead of
> getting unknown liquids which could hydro lock the engine.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
> in hell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
*John Phillips*
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Johnd01
John Phillips
Avion A2600 TZE064V101164
Rancho Cordova, CA (Sacramento)
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351611 is a reply to message #351606] |
Fri, 10 January 2020 18:00 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
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Depends on location, humidity, temperature extremes. And to some degree,
how fussy you are. If you worry about dry start ups, rusty cylinder bores,
stuck valves, etc. Then 3 months if you did not winterize your engine.
Maybe as long as 6 months in sunny California or arid areas like Arizona
and New Mexico, Nevada, etc. But, not much longer than that. Opinions
vary.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 3:49 PM John Phillips via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
> procedure?
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020 at 5:52 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> What Rich said - 'bar' it over two complete turns and be sure all you
> get
>> out of the plug holes is a bit of the oil you squirted in, instead of
>> getting unknown liquids which could hydro lock the engine.
>>
>> --johnny
>> --
>> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
>> Braselton, Ga.
>> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me
>> in hell
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351612 is a reply to message #351606] |
Fri, 10 January 2020 19:28 |
johnd01
Messages: 354
Registered: July 2017
Location: Sacrameot
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How about shortcutting a little by removing the plugs, crank it over a few
times by hand, run a compression check, you have the plugs out already then
put the plugs back in and start it?
On Fri, Jan 10, 2020 at 3:56 PM James Hupy via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Depends on location, humidity, temperature extremes. And to some degree,
> how fussy you are. If you worry about dry start ups, rusty cylinder bores,
> stuck valves, etc. Then 3 months if you did not winterize your engine.
> Maybe as long as 6 months in sunny California or arid areas like Arizona
> and New Mexico, Nevada, etc. But, not much longer than that. Opinions
> vary.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 3:49 PM John Phillips via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
>> procedure?
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020 at 5:52 AM Johnny Bridges via Gmclist > gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>> What Rich said - 'bar' it over two complete turns and be sure all you
>> get
>>> out of the plug holes is a bit of the oil you squirted in, instead of
>>> getting unknown liquids which could hydro lock the engine.
>>>
>>> --johnny
>>> --
>>> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
>>> Braselton, Ga.
>>> I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
> me
>>> in hell
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *John Phillips*
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
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*John Phillips*
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Johnd01
John Phillips
Avion A2600 TZE064V101164
Rancho Cordova, CA (Sacramento)
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351614 is a reply to message #351606] |
Sat, 11 January 2020 16:39 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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I know, I know! Lots of people do absolutely nothing other than take the
keys out of the ignition, lock the door, and walk away.
During my 20 plus years as a Vocational Instructor in Power
Equipment/Small Engine, I had projects from several dozen State agencies,
from walk behind mowers, Tillers, Riding Mowers, Sanding and de-icing
equipment, Chain Saws, Outboard motors, etc. We got them in during the slow
seasons and did all manner of repairs to both their engines and power
transmission systems. Belts, hydraulic systems, clutch/transmission
systems, etc. Some had been winterized, some not. The outboards that had
been fogged off, sprayed with anti- corrosion inhibitors and left with dry
fuel tanks were no problem to service and return in great shape.
The ones that had not been winterized were a horse of a different
color. You go through a multi cylinder 2 cycle engine with needle bearing
lower ends like big Mercury Outboards, and you spend literally thousands of
dollars to make them reliable. For the cost of a bit of fogging oil and a
few minutes of time, all that can be avoided. It goes without saying that I
come down on the side of prevention vs. fixing what degraded during
storage. Do as you wish, it is your money, spend it how you see fit.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sat, Jan 11, 2020, 1:14 PM Mike Kelley via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Thanks Fred H.:
> For that different view point on start up after storage.
> I am not a mechanic but sort of fussy about my vehicles - 22 in all.
> First got into GMC MH’s about 7 years ago. Have owned 5 of the old girls
> in the past 7 years - now down to 3. With that many of them - storage was
> always involved. I pretty much followed your description of storage and
> have never had an engine problem. Many were stored as little as 7 months
> and as much as 18 months with no problems.
> My GMC mechanic - a long time GMCer has been following the same procedure
> for 21 years (lives in Northern IL. so 6 months of storage each year)
> without incident.
> I publish this to let newbies and non mechanics know there are different
> views on the subject - and “we Pay’s our money and Takes our choice”!
> Thanks again,
> Mike/The Corvair a holic
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 11, 2020, at 2:43 PM, Fred Hudspeth via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>> Re " Opinions vary"...
>>
>> FWIW - from a 40 year association with Alaska (20 as a resident), the
>> practice there is no winterization of drivetrains. In September, for cold
>> storage of summer use vehicles, 'just fill the tanks with fuel, fully
>> charge all batteries, park/store vehicles, disconnect one terminal on
> each
>> battery and do not disturb until after break-up/first use the next year
>> (usually Memorial Day weekend). A 100 percent fully charged wet cell
> battery
>> will not freeze until approximately -78 F. 'Usual voltage loss is less
> than
>> 0.25VDC over a 9 month period. On re-start in May, reconnect batteries
> and
>> start normally. 'Have seen no evidence of engine damage/performance
>> degradation with this long-standing practice.
>>
>> In preparing for my first winter in southcentral Alaska, I was very
> "fussy"
>> about preparing my motorhome (then a Ford "460" powered Coachmen product)
>> for cold storage. An "old sourdough" who lived nearby was visiting when I
>> was doing my prep. He politely volunteered that it was an overkill and
>> described his and other veteran residents' practice. I listened but was
>> apprehensive about "their way" and did it my comprehensive way the first
>> winter(i.e., R&R batteries, periodic restarts/warmups, etc.). "My way"
> was a
>> real hassle in that cold. The next winter, I "did it their way" and have
>> done so since. The motorhome I use in summers and leave in Alaska is a
> '82
>> GM "454" powered Airstream. It has been there 21 years. In all of that
> time,
>> there has been no change in compression, makeup oil, fuel consumption
> etc.
>> using the "old sourdough's" winterization practice.
>>
>> Fred Hudspeth
>>
>>
>> Fred Hudspeth
>> 1978 Royale (TZE 368V101335) - Tyler, TX
>> 1982 Airstream Excella (motorhome) - Cooper Landing, Alaska
>>
>>
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 16:00:22 -0800
>> From: James Hupy
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>>
>> Depends on location, humidity, temperature extremes. And to some degree,
> how
>> fussy you are. If you worry about dry start ups, rusty cylinder bores,
> stuck
>> valves, etc. Then 3 months if you did not winterize your engine.
>> Maybe as long as 6 months in sunny California or arid areas like Arizona
> and
>> New Mexico, Nevada, etc. But, not much longer than that. Opinions vary.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, Oregon
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 3:49 PM John Phillips via Gmclist > gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>> How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
>>> procedure?
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351615 is a reply to message #351606] |
Sat, 11 January 2020 14:43 |
fbhtxak
Messages: 191
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Re " Opinions vary"...
FWIW - from a 40 year association with Alaska (20 as a resident), the
practice there is no winterization of drivetrains. In September, for cold
storage of summer use vehicles, 'just fill the tanks with fuel, fully
charge all batteries, park/store vehicles, disconnect one terminal on each
battery and do not disturb until after break-up/first use the next year
(usually Memorial Day weekend). A 100 percent fully charged wet cell battery
will not freeze until approximately -78 F. 'Usual voltage loss is less than
0.25VDC over a 9 month period. On re-start in May, reconnect batteries and
start normally. 'Have seen no evidence of engine damage/performance
degradation with this long-standing practice.
In preparing for my first winter in southcentral Alaska, I was very "fussy"
about preparing my motorhome (then a Ford "460" powered Coachmen product)
for cold storage. An "old sourdough" who lived nearby was visiting when I
was doing my prep. He politely volunteered that it was an overkill and
described his and other veteran residents' practice. I listened but was
apprehensive about "their way" and did it my comprehensive way the first
winter(i.e., R&R batteries, periodic restarts/warmups, etc.). "My way" was a
real hassle in that cold. The next winter, I "did it their way" and have
done so since. The motorhome I use in summers and leave in Alaska is a '82
GM "454" powered Airstream. It has been there 21 years. In all of that time,
there has been no change in compression, makeup oil, fuel consumption etc.
using the "old sourdough's" winterization practice.
Fred Hudspeth
Fred Hudspeth
1978 Royale (TZE 368V101335) - Tyler, TX
1982 Airstream Excella (motorhome) - Cooper Landing, Alaska
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 16:00:22 -0800
From: James Hupy
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Depends on location, humidity, temperature extremes. And to some degree, how
fussy you are. If you worry about dry start ups, rusty cylinder bores, stuck
valves, etc. Then 3 months if you did not winterize your engine.
Maybe as long as 6 months in sunny California or arid areas like Arizona and
New Mexico, Nevada, etc. But, not much longer than that. Opinions vary.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 3:49 PM John Phillips via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
> procedure?
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested [message #351616 is a reply to message #351606] |
Sat, 11 January 2020 15:13 |
Mike Kelley
Messages: 467
Registered: February 2017
Karma: -2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Fred H.:
For that different view point on start up after storage.
I am not a mechanic but sort of fussy about my vehicles - 22 in all. First got into GMC MH’s about 7 years ago. Have owned 5 of the old girls in the past 7 years - now down to 3. With that many of them - storage was always involved. I pretty much followed your description of storage and have never had an engine problem. Many were stored as little as 7 months and as much as 18 months with no problems.
My GMC mechanic - a long time GMCer has been following the same procedure for 21 years (lives in Northern IL. so 6 months of storage each year) without incident.
I publish this to let newbies and non mechanics know there are different views on the subject - and “we Pay’s our money and Takes our choice”!
Thanks again,
Mike/The Corvair a holic
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 11, 2020, at 2:43 PM, Fred Hudspeth via Gmclist wrote:
>
> Re " Opinions vary"...
>
> FWIW - from a 40 year association with Alaska (20 as a resident), the
> practice there is no winterization of drivetrains. In September, for cold
> storage of summer use vehicles, 'just fill the tanks with fuel, fully
> charge all batteries, park/store vehicles, disconnect one terminal on each
> battery and do not disturb until after break-up/first use the next year
> (usually Memorial Day weekend). A 100 percent fully charged wet cell battery
> will not freeze until approximately -78 F. 'Usual voltage loss is less than
> 0.25VDC over a 9 month period. On re-start in May, reconnect batteries and
> start normally. 'Have seen no evidence of engine damage/performance
> degradation with this long-standing practice.
>
> In preparing for my first winter in southcentral Alaska, I was very "fussy"
> about preparing my motorhome (then a Ford "460" powered Coachmen product)
> for cold storage. An "old sourdough" who lived nearby was visiting when I
> was doing my prep. He politely volunteered that it was an overkill and
> described his and other veteran residents' practice. I listened but was
> apprehensive about "their way" and did it my comprehensive way the first
> winter(i.e., R&R batteries, periodic restarts/warmups, etc.). "My way" was a
> real hassle in that cold. The next winter, I "did it their way" and have
> done so since. The motorhome I use in summers and leave in Alaska is a '82
> GM "454" powered Airstream. It has been there 21 years. In all of that time,
> there has been no change in compression, makeup oil, fuel consumption etc.
> using the "old sourdough's" winterization practice.
>
> Fred Hudspeth
>
>
> Fred Hudspeth
> 1978 Royale (TZE 368V101335) - Tyler, TX
> 1982 Airstream Excella (motorhome) - Cooper Landing, Alaska
>
>
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2020 16:00:22 -0800
> From: James Hupy
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Pre-Oiling information requested
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Depends on location, humidity, temperature extremes. And to some degree, how
> fussy you are. If you worry about dry start ups, rusty cylinder bores, stuck
> valves, etc. Then 3 months if you did not winterize your engine.
> Maybe as long as 6 months in sunny California or arid areas like Arizona and
> New Mexico, Nevada, etc. But, not much longer than that. Opinions vary.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Fri, Jan 10, 2020, 3:49 PM John Phillips via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>
>> How long can you let your motor sit before you need to go through this
>> procedure?
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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